Rustoleum/Valspar Question

[Sharps40]

I'm reading thru both the body section on rustoleum roll on's and sprayed on and doin some readin on line on the Tractor Supply Store Valspar paints sprayed on.

I think I got it on reducers/hardener and thinner for these less expensive enamels.

What I'm lookin for is some pics and opinions from anyone that:

1. Sprayed on either enamel (not interested in a roll on/sand/buff) - how did it lay and shine and was it as hard enough or even as hard as auto paint?

2. How did the shine, adhesion and scratch resistance hold up over 1, 2 and up to 5 years?

3. Has anyone used the new electric Wagoner 590 turbo HVLP to shoot their vehicle with these paints? Love it or hate it?

[dieseldude4bt]

I sprayed Rustoleum on my truck and it goes on like automotive paint and has a good shine but it does not last outside, inside the truck it still shines but outside fades in 3-4 years. I would use good paint for all the work involved to paint one again.

[cortcomp]

doublepost

[cortcomp]

Single part paint will never be as tough as two part paint. If you want to do it on the cheap, use nason or centari acrylic enamel. We're using centari with nason hardener, and nason 2k clear right now with great results, and we haven't even sanded and polished the clear yet (yeah i know, if you're gonna do two coats then BC/CC instead of AE...says the guy with twice the money in his paint than AE + urethane clear. However, with metallics, yes, don't AE, more work for mistakes.)

Anyways, we did 3 coats color then 2 coats clear about 15 between each, we like the results so far, and will be a durable, detail-able finish, on the cheap.

[Chevy Fleetside]

http://www.tcpglobal.com/
Check this place out. I have never used their products but as they always say.. You get what you pay for. I am thinking about using hot rod black for my other truck.

[markeb01]

Here’s what mine looked like back in 2009 right after I sprayed it with John Deere Blitz Black enamel. It can be applied as flat or satin finish by adjusting the reducer ratio:



And here’s what it looks like today. In 4 years there really hasn’t been any change in the appearance of the finish. To the best of my knowledge there is one mark on the hood about 2” long and a small dent in the back of the cab. This stuff is very tough and doesn’t scratch easily. Almost nothing sticks to it either. Whether washed off with soap and a mitt or just hosed down, it pretty much looks the same after being dried off. My truck does live indoors most of the time, so constant exposure would probably change the long term results.



JD Blitz Black is made by Valspar, and my bumper, guards, and grille are all painted with Rustoleum gloss white. Synthetic enamels are easy to shoot and inexpensive. Memory tells me the entire paint job cost right around $200. I was recently out of work and needed it to be cheap on unemployment wages.

If you elect to use hardener in any type or brand of paint, be sure to invest in full breathing gear with a full face mask and a bunny suit. Carcinogenic agents are in the hardener, which can be absorbed through the skin and even the eyes. I know many hobbyists use hardened paints with just a respirator or even a dust mask, but lungs don’t grow back.

[Sharps40]

Copy all thanks. Superb information. Really confirms somma my thoughts on the eventual faid of the gloss in inexpensive paints and the longer term good looks of a satin of matt paint job.

Has everyone been painting strictly with the old school Divilbes air gun technology or is there any insite into painting with the Rust/Valspars using the newer Wagner 590 Turbo HVLP?

+1 on the hardner and respriator. Used to paint Imron quite a bit in the 80s. Loved it for its ease of use, wet look, quick dry and awesome gloss. But, first time Dad and I didn't wear respirators and we both had to keep leaving the booth. Even with good airflow, it would overcome both of us pretty quick. We learned the hard way....Hey Dummies - Quit Sniffin Paint!

[AcampoDave]

My whole tuck is painted with Rustoleum. I shot it in my driveway one morning about 5 years ago. I used a Harbor Frieght syphon style gun that I bought really cheap. I did wetsand and buff after the paint cured, and it lives in the garage. I keep it waxed up and shiney with any ol' auto polish and wax. I mixed the color myself using blue, green, and white

[markeb01]

That's a very attractive color and finish. Nice job!

[AcampoDave]

Thanks, it was the first vehicle I ever painted, and it immediately became the second. After I realized how important a properly sanded primer job is to a smooth finish, I had to wetsand it all down smooth and reshoot it the following weekend.

[shuvl]

I spray bombed my truck with rustoleum. Later down a good primer coat then a good solid coat of satin white. Sanded through the white so it looked blotchy all over then I did all the orange scallops. After everything was dry I lightly misted the entire truck with more white. It blended the splotches and toned down the orange. Brand new paint job that looks really old. Real easy to touch up as I do various body work projects from time to time. Don't have to drive around with big primer spots when I do repairs. Cost a couple hundred bucks and took a weekend. I get compliments on it.... I also get asked how old is the paint job.
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[bama63]

ppg industrial coatings ALK-200 synthetic enamel,can be mixed in any non metallic color,use with or without hardener, sprays great,lays down good,and can be clear coated if desired, i have painted tons of heavy equipment with this and the finish is tough as nails and the gloss holds up really well. $42.00 per gallon of paint and $14.00 for hardener.