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07-08-2013, 03:12 AM | #1 |
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some help decoding my "new" engine
he guys, picked up a "new" engine here in the Netherlands an need some help confirming my info on the engine.
casting info: INTAKE: GM 3965577 Cast #: 3965577 CID/HP: 350 Year: 70 Type: 300/350HP, Corvette, Camaro, Nova, Chevelle, Cast Iron HEADS: 3932441....69-70...350..........76cc chambers http://www.fastnuf.com/Headguide.html Rank: 7 Cast #: 3932441 Good Points: ‘69-’70, large chambers (73cc), some have steam holes for 400 blocks, ports decent, accessory bolt holes Bad Points: No 2.02/1.60 valve versions from factory ENGINE: Years 1969-79 Casting: 3970010 CID: 350 Low Power: 185 High Power: 370 Main Caps: 2 or 4 Comments: car, truck, Vette Castingdate: E190 E = May 19 = de 19e 0 = 1970 ENGINE FRONT PASSENGER V0526TAX V Flint plant 05 May 26 day TAX: betekent: Year: 1970 CID: 350 HP: 255 BBL: 4 Appl: convfwd cabs, a/t - C-10 to 3500 is my info correct? it seems like a complete 1970 sportscar engine. but I can seem to figur out what the "convfwd cabs, a/t" means. I get all kinds of descriptions pointing to chevy step vans, vans, etc...because fwd would mean fwd controls... here are some pics: engine casting 3970010 date code engine E190 another casting on the rear top of engine: some numbers just above oil filter on side of engine: engine suffix code: V0526TAX intake casting: 3865577 heads casting: 3932 41 F250 head on driver side says 3932441 carb number: 1406 carb brand: WEBER
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07-08-2013, 04:27 AM | #2 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
Looks to be a typical sbc the "010" on the back of the block means its a heavy duty block but most all sbc are like that. Your carb is a 600cfm and the intake is prob off another early sbc since its got a square bore intake for the carb
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07-08-2013, 07:22 AM | #3 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
New engine? You had any troubles with the current one?
The intake is spreadbore. Looks like the Weber (Edelbrock) is mounted on a spreadbore to squarebore adapter. |
07-08-2013, 09:00 AM | #4 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
yes current engine has low compression on one of the cilinders and consumes more and more oil. got a good deal on this one.
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07-09-2013, 04:39 PM | #5 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
opened up the oil pan and took some more pics today
can you guys help me out on these numbers? does it give me any info on the engine? I am glad to see its a 4 main bolt! oil pump
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07-09-2013, 08:26 PM | #6 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
Here you go..www.chevymania.com
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07-10-2013, 12:53 AM | #7 | |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
Quote:
You also sometimes see "020" next to "010" on front and/or rear. This means 2 percent extra NICKEL was added to the molten metal for added durability. The casting number 3970010 was used 302, 327 and 350 in 1969. 350ci to 1980 The extra tin was added to help the molten metal flow better into the casting. Not really "heavy duty" but a better casting and more desirable. The added nickel of the "020" block makes the cylinders more durable and a stronger "heavy duty" block.
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Last edited by wraprail; 07-10-2013 at 01:01 AM. |
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07-10-2013, 01:33 AM | #8 | |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
Quote:
Posted via Mobile Device
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377 sbc thumpr cam autogear m23 muncie 3:73 Detroit trutrac 3''spintech prostreet mufflers xpipe 1 3/4 headers build thread !http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=577217 Iroc gauge threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554511 |
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07-10-2013, 01:39 AM | #9 | |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
Quote:
Hmm interesting. I've never looked into the numbers on blocks myself. Usually when I wanted a high hp build for an engine I looked for the early large journal 327s since they were cast a lot thicker then. After that a 350 was just a 350 to me and the Mexico blocks were good for scrapping. Unfortunately it's getting g harder and harder to find good early blocks. Numbers matching morons hoard them in cars that run maybe three times a year Posted via Mobile Device
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377 sbc thumpr cam autogear m23 muncie 3:73 Detroit trutrac 3''spintech prostreet mufflers xpipe 1 3/4 headers build thread !http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=577217 Iroc gauge threadhttp://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=554511 |
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07-10-2013, 02:10 AM | #10 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
All that came from my
Chevrolet Small Block Parts Interchange Manual. And as you are aware, stay away from "Hencho en Mexico" General Motors version of a boat anchor! I just picked up a "010" "020" 400 the other day cheap. (Free) they are still out there
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07-10-2013, 02:16 AM | #11 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
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07-10-2013, 02:32 AM | #12 | |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
Quote:
that is also a cool website, thanks man! found a little more again: SB CRANK Casting Number3932442 CID 305/350 Years 69-85 Journals 2.45/2.10 Stroke 3.48 Comments Nodular Iron
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07-10-2013, 03:25 AM | #13 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
guys help me out,
what is meant by "Journals 2.45/2.10" what are the journals? I am an engine noob and cant find info on this
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07-10-2013, 08:56 AM | #14 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
2.45 mains/2.10 rods. The 441 heads are a decent stock head.,the 2482 main caps are nodular iron opposed to regular cast iron caps. The block is a good block beings it's a "HIGH NICKLE" block. Crank is a std run of the mill cast 350 crank. Not a bad crank for most applications,just not a steel crank. The carb is an Edelbrock...I myself do not like them...but that's a personal opinion(you dont see them in the winners circle do ya) The oil pump is a typical M55 std volume oil pump. I dont remember if Chevy used Mellings pumps from the factory or if that one has been replaced....if you pull the heads off you will find stampings on the tops of the pistons (most of the time) indicating an overbore. If you pull a rod or main cap and look at the back of the bearing shell,it will also tell you if the crank has been turned down....sometimes a rebuilder will stamp or paint has marks on the front counter weight of the crank indicating a regrind.....
What you have is a run of the mill 350 with 4blt mains....if it had a STEEL crank,PINK rods,"186" heads with screw in studs and guide plates,SOLID lifter cam,FACTORY aluminum intake..."THEN" it would be something to get excited about!(LT1..1970)
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07-10-2013, 08:59 AM | #15 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
One more thing...if you take the front cover off and remove the timing set, look at the cam bore...if the bore looks to be centered(you'll know what Im talking about as soon as you see it),then you will have an excellent block...if it is off to one side then there is core shift. Personally I dont use blocks that have significant signs of core shift....but again, that is just MY OPINION.
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07-10-2013, 09:14 AM | #16 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
he Manimal,
thanks for the update. so I guess this mark means the crank has been regrinded? is there anything I can read of this mark?
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07-10-2013, 09:19 AM | #17 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
.020 and .030. and if it has ANY scoring on the journals, that crank can be thrown away. they are pretty much done after a .030 grind.
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07-10-2013, 09:20 AM | #18 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
remember I am a noob in rebuilding...so please elaborate some more
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07-10-2013, 09:23 AM | #19 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
That means the crank journal surfaces have been cut(made smaller) by .020/.030 inches...twenty thousandths and thirty thousandths.
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07-10-2013, 09:25 AM | #20 | |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
Quote:
and I guess there is no date/year info to be gotten from this info right?
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07-10-2013, 09:35 AM | #21 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
looks to be a 1970...but the crank is either 1972 or 1982.
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07-10-2013, 09:46 AM | #22 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
ok, the reason I am asking this is because the engine came to the netherlands with a Chevrolet Bel-air someone bought of Ebay It had no engine in it and the previous owner had bought this engine to put into it.
he claims it was a rebuild engine, but couldn't get me info on when and what was done to it. the engine has been sitting for a while as you can tell from all the dust and debrie on it. but is has been run, since it has spark plugs in it that are black from running rich. when I look into the cilinders I can also see the top of the pistons are also black...so the engine has been used since the previous rebuild... now I dont have any special tools, but want to find out if the engine is in good shape... any advise?
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07-10-2013, 10:11 AM | #23 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
if you have some basic hand tools and a torque wrench you can rebuild the engine...NO SWEAT! To remove the heads you need a breaker bar(1/2") with a 5/8" socket and an extension and a 9/16 wrench for the intake...done!
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07-10-2013, 10:16 AM | #24 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
pull the intake off, then pull the heads off. Post some pics of the cylinder walls,clean the tops of the pistons look for numbers stamped on the tops of the pistons(.020,.030,.040,.060) that would indicate an overbore....."MAYBE" that thing only needed a crank kit at one time...but you never know until you pull the heads.
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07-10-2013, 03:19 PM | #25 |
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine
Those heads are missing a casting number. In 1970 the 300 hp 350 used the 041 heads that are small 64 cc chambers. On the other hand the 1970 250 hp (2bbl) 350 used the 441 heads that are the 76 cc chambers that you noted in decoding. I believe you have a 300 hp 350 from 1970 with a different intake, the 4 bolt bottom end and heads are the big clues to the 300 hp engine (250 hp were all 2 bolt blocks).
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