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Old 07-08-2013, 03:12 AM   #1
kikkegek
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some help decoding my "new" engine

he guys, picked up a "new" engine here in the Netherlands an need some help confirming my info on the engine.

casting info:

INTAKE:
GM 3965577
Cast #: 3965577
CID/HP: 350
Year: 70
Type: 300/350HP, Corvette, Camaro, Nova, Chevelle, Cast Iron


HEADS:
3932441....69-70...350..........76cc chambers

http://www.fastnuf.com/Headguide.html
Rank: 7
Cast #: 3932441
Good Points: ‘69-’70, large chambers (73cc), some have steam holes for 400 blocks, ports decent, accessory bolt holes
Bad Points: No 2.02/1.60 valve versions from factory

ENGINE:
Years 1969-79
Casting: 3970010 CID: 350
Low Power: 185
High Power: 370
Main Caps: 2 or 4
Comments: car, truck, Vette

Castingdate:
E190
E = May
19 = de 19e
0 = 1970

ENGINE FRONT PASSENGER
V0526TAX
V Flint plant
05 May
26 day
TAX: betekent:
Year: 1970
CID: 350
HP: 255
BBL: 4
Appl: convfwd cabs, a/t - C-10 to 3500


is my info correct?

it seems like a complete 1970 sportscar engine. but I can seem to figur out what the "convfwd cabs, a/t" means.

I get all kinds of descriptions pointing to chevy step vans, vans, etc...because fwd would mean fwd controls...

here are some pics:
engine casting 3970010


date code engine E190


another casting on the rear top of engine:


some numbers just above oil filter on side of engine:


engine suffix code: V0526TAX


intake casting: 3865577


heads casting: 3932 41 F250
head on driver side says 3932441


carb number: 1406


carb brand: WEBER
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Old 07-08-2013, 04:27 AM   #2
INSIDIOUS '86
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

Looks to be a typical sbc the "010" on the back of the block means its a heavy duty block but most all sbc are like that. Your carb is a 600cfm and the intake is prob off another early sbc since its got a square bore intake for the carb
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Last edited by INSIDIOUS '86; 07-08-2013 at 04:33 AM.
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Old 07-08-2013, 07:22 AM   #3
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

New engine? You had any troubles with the current one?

The intake is spreadbore. Looks like the Weber (Edelbrock) is mounted on a spreadbore to squarebore adapter.
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:00 AM   #4
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Remon. View Post
New engine? You had any troubles with the current one?

The intake is spreadbore. Looks like the Weber (Edelbrock) is mounted on a spreadbore to squarebore adapter.
yes current engine has low compression on one of the cilinders and consumes more and more oil. got a good deal on this one.
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Old 07-09-2013, 04:39 PM   #5
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

opened up the oil pan and took some more pics today

can you guys help me out on these numbers? does it give me any info on the engine?

I am glad to see its a 4 main bolt!









oil pump




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Old 07-09-2013, 08:26 PM   #6
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

Here you go..www.chevymania.com
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:53 AM   #7
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86 View Post
Looks to be a typical sbc the "010" on the back of the block means its a heavy duty block but most all sbc are like that. Your carb is a 600cfm and the intake is prob off another early sbc since its got a square bore intake for the carb
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The "010" means the the block was made with 1 percent extra TIN added to the metal and is found on either the rear or front under timing cover. Sometimes they cast the last 3 digits of the block casting numbers into the side of the block. So if you see "010" on the side of the block it means nothing.
You also sometimes see "020" next to "010" on front and/or rear. This means 2 percent extra NICKEL was added to the molten metal for added durability.
The casting number 3970010 was used 302, 327 and 350 in 1969. 350ci to 1980
The extra tin was added to help the molten metal flow better into the casting. Not really "heavy duty" but a better casting and more desirable. The added nickel of the "020" block makes the cylinders more durable and a stronger "heavy duty" block.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:33 AM   #8
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Remon. View Post
New engine? You had any troubles with the current one?

The intake is spreadbore. Looks like the Weber (Edelbrock) is mounted on a spreadbore to squarebore adapter.
Yah I see it now. Blended well with the carb
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:39 AM   #9
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by wraprail View Post
The "010" means the the block was made with 1 percent extra TIN added to the metal and is found on either the rear or front under timing cover. Sometimes they cast the last 3 digits of the block casting numbers into the side of the block. So if you see "010" on the side of the block it means nothing.
You also sometimes see "020" next to "010" on front and/or rear. This means 2 percent extra NICKEL was added to the molten metal for added durability.
The casting number 3970010 was used 302, 327 and 350 in 1969. 350ci to 1980
The extra tin was added to help the molten metal flow better into the casting. Not really "heavy duty" but a better casting and more desirable. The added nickel of the "020" block makes the cylinders more durable and a stronger "heavy duty" block.

Hmm interesting. I've never looked into the numbers on blocks myself. Usually when I wanted a high hp build for an engine I looked for the early large journal 327s since they were cast a lot thicker then. After that a 350 was just a 350 to me and the Mexico blocks were good for scrapping. Unfortunately it's getting g harder and harder to find good early blocks. Numbers matching morons hoard them in cars that run maybe three times a year
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3''spintech prostreet mufflers xpipe 1 3/4 headers
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:10 AM   #10
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

All that came from my
Chevrolet Small Block Parts Interchange Manual.
And as you are aware, stay away from "Hencho en Mexico"
General Motors version of a boat anchor!

I just picked up a "010" "020" 400 the other day cheap. (Free) they are still out there
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:16 AM   #11
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

thanks man!

found a lot of info on http://www.mortec.com
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:32 AM   #12
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by 74 stepside View Post
Here you go..www.chevymania.com

that is also a cool website, thanks man!

found a little more again:

SB CRANK

Casting Number3932442
CID 305/350
Years 69-85
Journals 2.45/2.10
Stroke 3.48
Comments Nodular Iron
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:25 AM   #13
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

guys help me out,

what is meant by "Journals 2.45/2.10"

what are the journals? I am an engine noob and cant find info on this
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:56 AM   #14
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

2.45 mains/2.10 rods. The 441 heads are a decent stock head.,the 2482 main caps are nodular iron opposed to regular cast iron caps. The block is a good block beings it's a "HIGH NICKLE" block. Crank is a std run of the mill cast 350 crank. Not a bad crank for most applications,just not a steel crank. The carb is an Edelbrock...I myself do not like them...but that's a personal opinion(you dont see them in the winners circle do ya) The oil pump is a typical M55 std volume oil pump. I dont remember if Chevy used Mellings pumps from the factory or if that one has been replaced....if you pull the heads off you will find stampings on the tops of the pistons (most of the time) indicating an overbore. If you pull a rod or main cap and look at the back of the bearing shell,it will also tell you if the crank has been turned down....sometimes a rebuilder will stamp or paint has marks on the front counter weight of the crank indicating a regrind.....
What you have is a run of the mill 350 with 4blt mains....if it had a STEEL crank,PINK rods,"186" heads with screw in studs and guide plates,SOLID lifter cam,FACTORY aluminum intake..."THEN" it would be something to get excited about!(LT1..1970)
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:59 AM   #15
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

One more thing...if you take the front cover off and remove the timing set, look at the cam bore...if the bore looks to be centered(you'll know what Im talking about as soon as you see it),then you will have an excellent block...if it is off to one side then there is core shift. Personally I dont use blocks that have significant signs of core shift....but again, that is just MY OPINION.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:14 AM   #16
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

he Manimal,

thanks for the update. so I guess this mark means the crank has been regrinded?



is there anything I can read of this mark?
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:19 AM   #17
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

.020 and .030. and if it has ANY scoring on the journals, that crank can be thrown away. they are pretty much done after a .030 grind.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:20 AM   #18
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by manimal View Post
.020 and .030.
remember I am a noob in rebuilding...so please elaborate some more
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:23 AM   #19
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

That means the crank journal surfaces have been cut(made smaller) by .020/.030 inches...twenty thousandths and thirty thousandths.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:25 AM   #20
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by manimal View Post
That means the crank journal surfaces have been cut(made smaller) by .020/.030 inches...twenty thousandths and thirty thousandths.
ok, thanks, good to know. would this point in the direction of further rebuild info?

and I guess there is no date/year info to be gotten from this info right?
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:35 AM   #21
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

looks to be a 1970...but the crank is either 1972 or 1982.
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Old 07-10-2013, 09:46 AM   #22
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

Quote:
Originally Posted by manimal View Post
looks to be a 1970...but the crank is either 1972 or 1982.
ok, the reason I am asking this is because the engine came to the netherlands with a Chevrolet Bel-air someone bought of Ebay It had no engine in it and the previous owner had bought this engine to put into it.

he claims it was a rebuild engine, but couldn't get me info on when and what was done to it.

the engine has been sitting for a while as you can tell from all the dust and debrie on it. but is has been run, since it has spark plugs in it that are black from running rich. when I look into the cilinders I can also see the top of the pistons are also black...so the engine has been used since the previous rebuild...

now I dont have any special tools, but want to find out if the engine is in good shape...

any advise?
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:11 AM   #23
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

if you have some basic hand tools and a torque wrench you can rebuild the engine...NO SWEAT! To remove the heads you need a breaker bar(1/2") with a 5/8" socket and an extension and a 9/16 wrench for the intake...done!
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Old 07-10-2013, 10:16 AM   #24
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

pull the intake off, then pull the heads off. Post some pics of the cylinder walls,clean the tops of the pistons look for numbers stamped on the tops of the pistons(.020,.030,.040,.060) that would indicate an overbore....."MAYBE" that thing only needed a crank kit at one time...but you never know until you pull the heads.
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Old 07-10-2013, 03:19 PM   #25
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Re: some help decoding my "new" engine

Those heads are missing a casting number. In 1970 the 300 hp 350 used the 041 heads that are small 64 cc chambers. On the other hand the 1970 250 hp (2bbl) 350 used the 441 heads that are the 76 cc chambers that you noted in decoding. I believe you have a 300 hp 350 from 1970 with a different intake, the 4 bolt bottom end and heads are the big clues to the 300 hp engine (250 hp were all 2 bolt blocks).
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