Tripple tanks?

[Levi L]

Has anyone ran dual tanks with a subarban tank too? I have the Dual 20 gal tanks now, and I am thinking about adding the 40 Gallon Burb tank for extending my range.

"who would need that much fuel?"

I live in Alaska. If you get much out side of Anchorage/matsu and Fbanks, one fuel cost are exponential, as in 30-90 cents more per gallon. Two, the gas stations outside of said cities, fuel tanks are a crap shoot. Being a service writer for GM, I get to see first hand what these stations fuel tanks are full of. NO THANK YOU!

The search function kept on giving me error messages.

OH SRWCC. eventually diesel.

[79 silverado]

Haven't done it, but, thought about it.

Odds are the easiest way to facilitate it is to set in the third tank, or any other fuel cell style tank with possibly even more capacity, and use a transfer pump when necessary to move the fuel from the bonus tank into one of the existing dual tanks. At least that was what I had thought made sense at the time.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Have you thought about one of the bed box fuel tanks?

They can be pricey about $700, but the can add 2-3 times more fuel.

[Levi L]

Yeah, But Im wanting the range for a slide in bed camper.

[wilkin250r]

I haven't done it, but I've contemplated it. I don't know about your setup, but I'm running a carb, so I don't have in-tank fuel pumps.

My preliminary plan was to use a Burb tank with an in-tank pump, and just use the in-tank pump to transfer gas into my main tank. My sending units are the 3-outlet style, so I would just tie the burb tank into the return line of my main tank.

If that wouldn't work (which is entirely possible, because the TBI are capable of higher pressures than a normal pump for carbureted vehicles) then I would just plumb it into the vent line near the filler neck of my main tank.

[Dead Parrot]

Consider making the 40 gal tank one of the main tanks. If you use the 40 gal as a top-off tank, you run the risk of dumping 20 gallons on the ground if you forget to switch off after the 20 is full and something goes wrong with the return vent plumbing. I was a passenger in a PU with a in-cab tank and an aux bed tank. Somehow the x-fer pump got turned on and we wound up with gas spraying out the filler cap. No fire happened but a lot of gas was lost.

[mrolds88]

Why couldn't you use a second transfer valve and plumb it in like the original. Just have 2 switches on the dash. Original switches between the 2 20 gal tans, the second switches between the 40 and the original fuel system.

[Levi L]

Originally Posted by mrolds88

Why couldn't you use a second transfer valve and plumb it in like the original. Just have 2 switches on the dash. Original switches between the 2 20 gal tans, the second switches between the 40 and the original fuel system.

Thats what I have been thinking. Just relabel it F R instead of L/R


Hmmmmmm.....

[8lugnutz]

Originally Posted by mrolds88

Why couldn't you use a second transfer valve and plumb it in like the original. Just have 2 switches on the dash. Original switches between the 2 20 gal tans, the second switches between the 40 and the original fuel system.

I was just thinking about this the other day, that makes sense to me. Using your thought process above, option 1 below would be how I visualize the "plumbing":

[mrolds88]

Option 1 is the way I was imagining it. Use the 40 first then move to the 20's.

[Levi L]

I'm likeing option one.

now to find the switches and valve...

[RPOZ11]

I have this in mind myself for my 75 SWB.
I've already installed the dual L/R factory tanks.
Used a manual switching valve.
Image 1 above may be what I do.
I have the Blazer rear tank.
Not sure the difference between this and the Suburban tank.
My only issue is fitting it in there with the trailer hitch.
I'll post something when I install it.
The mechanical valve works just fine for me.
No electrical switches breaking down ever.
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