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09-15-2013, 09:25 PM | #1 |
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full rebuild? or just top end?
thoughts.... i keep good oil psi all day long on long trips and all but today after finding the skinny pedal a good bit i noticed i had a little chatter up top. im sure its probably just needing its due oil change (next pay) but im wondering if I should start putting some money aside and throw a small cam and valvetrain in it now while its still drivable and doesnt leave me stranded or just stick with my overall plans and start rebuilding a full motor for some good power and wait til this one goes?
Kinda more of a just BSing discussion thread
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1978 2wd Fleetside, 350/th350 headers and 10 series mufflers 1998 Jeep ZJ 4.5 lift 32s full bolt ons awaiting axles "Life is full of decisions, we make them and dont look back" |
09-15-2013, 09:28 PM | #2 |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
do it all at once! i did my top end about 5k ago, now the bottom needs it!! i should have just done it all at once!
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09-15-2013, 09:32 PM | #3 | |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
Quote:
mine is money though.... realistically i figure about 500 for a top end rebuild full valvetrain, gaskets, fluids plugs wires cap rotor etc i could do that in a month or two without affected any bills or living period.... a full motor rebuild would be 1500-2000 because i wouldnt reabuild it stock and unless the motor just completely **** the bed on me i wouldnt tear apart something not broke and for me to come up with 2k would take a good bit of time to get the money/parts together for it so thats kinda my only thing
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1978 2wd Fleetside, 350/th350 headers and 10 series mufflers 1998 Jeep ZJ 4.5 lift 32s full bolt ons awaiting axles "Life is full of decisions, we make them and dont look back" |
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09-15-2013, 09:42 PM | #4 |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
I'd do a full rebuild on the side. I'm doing that now just one piece of a time. Cam one month, crank next... I got it one piece at a time, and it cost one helluva dime, you'll hear me when i come through your town...
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09-15-2013, 10:21 PM | #5 | |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
Quote:
Lmao. so yea i think thats what ill do, ive been looking for a 4bolt main well.... just cause haha but i would love to get me a nice motor built but im thinking for now ill find me a good motor and just piece it together to be a reliable motor. i want to eventually have a nice 550-600hp to the wheels motor with a tunnel ram and pair of 750 double pumpers on the top. but i dont have a trans to hold it or anything so i know if i built that and put it in it would only be a matter of days before the trans gave out of the rear grenaded itself
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1978 2wd Fleetside, 350/th350 headers and 10 series mufflers 1998 Jeep ZJ 4.5 lift 32s full bolt ons awaiting axles "Life is full of decisions, we make them and dont look back" |
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09-15-2013, 10:59 PM | #6 |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
What kind of chatter? Change your oil but do 4qts 10w-30 and put a qt of lucas oil stabilizer in it. Most additives are snake oil.... but ive seen it make worn out stuff last a little longer... wont hurt to try, and itll help you save up for a complete rebuild. Do it once the right way.... spend the extra money so you dont have to waste more time and money...
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09-15-2013, 11:48 PM | #7 |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
I agree with most, pick up another block and build it on the side. You'll save money on the long run that way.
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09-16-2013, 03:37 AM | #8 |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
Call around your local engine builders see what they will charge you.
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09-16-2013, 05:56 PM | #9 | |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
Quote:
bahahahah negative lol I have one shop local and he has shafted up and when he says because we changed the carb on a boat motor thats why the oil pump failed when the oil pump pickup tube fell off and locked the pump up and says he will do nothing to make up for it..... lol nahhhh ill build it myself But I would love to just find a shop I could have do it but im very cautious because if i screw it up its my fault only ya know
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1978 2wd Fleetside, 350/th350 headers and 10 series mufflers 1998 Jeep ZJ 4.5 lift 32s full bolt ons awaiting axles "Life is full of decisions, we make them and dont look back" |
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09-16-2013, 06:45 PM | #10 |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
Rebuilding the top end is only going to make the lower end wear out faster. Just build an entire engine on the side as mentioned so you have very little downtown.
Also, maybe it's time for a little valve adjustment? Posted via Mobile Device
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09-16-2013, 08:16 PM | #11 |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
well im thinking of just an oil change and ill pull the covers and check them and see how it is. Maybe they need a little loving but well see. i know im at the time due for a change so i know its probably not going to be next week that the thing goes out.... well fingers crossed haha but hopefully some loving will make her quiet.
Next question..... anyone on the east coast got a sbc laying aroud?
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1978 2wd Fleetside, 350/th350 headers and 10 series mufflers 1998 Jeep ZJ 4.5 lift 32s full bolt ons awaiting axles "Life is full of decisions, we make them and dont look back" |
09-16-2013, 08:38 PM | #12 |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
Everyone is shaped by their own experience. In my experience, I have never had good luck with rebuilt engines, regardless of who rebuilt them. I would rather have a GM Goodwrench (or whatever they are called now that Mr. Goodwrench is dead) new engine with a factory warranty. I know this means more $$$ than you want to spend, but putting new parts in an old block is too much of a gamble for me.
Of course, if you want one of those hopped up racing motors like the youngins drive these days, then that is a different story. I do have a seemingly reliable 454 GM Goodwrench rebuilt engine in my 83 now, but I don't strain it very much or very often. I know some don't think that GM rebuilds engines, but mine has a brass plate with a GM part number on it which corresponds to a GM rebuilt 454 (actually, it says "rebuilt for General Motors.") |
09-16-2013, 08:52 PM | #13 |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
yes if i had the cash summit sells a built 450hp 383 sbc carb to pan with EVERYTHING ready to drop in but last time i looked into it, it was like 12k shipped after i figured it all out and trust me i would love to do that like you said you get a warranty with it. but yea i wanna be one of those whippersnappers revving my engine up like a juvenile deliquent (HAHAHAHAHAAH) but yes i want to pick up some power over stock and make it a little toy instead of a daily driver if not i probably would just get a new motor with a warranty since they can be ordered for 1300 long block and just throw a top end in it and go but it wouldnt be what i want
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1978 2wd Fleetside, 350/th350 headers and 10 series mufflers 1998 Jeep ZJ 4.5 lift 32s full bolt ons awaiting axles "Life is full of decisions, we make them and dont look back" |
09-17-2013, 02:51 AM | #14 |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
Talk to some of your local engine builders see what deal you can find.
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09-17-2013, 03:32 AM | #15 |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
I've been looking into and just waiting for when i have garage to rebuild an engine. I have two 292's sitting in storage(moms garage) and talked to couple guys at work about rebuilding. Pretty much what it came down to and i also thought this before, is just do what you want to clean the block up at a shop( hot tank it, machine it all nice) then have the shop rebuild the lower half. To many things can go wrong with the bottom end. all the specs that the average guy couldn't measure with out the $$$ tools. but the top end can be done at home. Then once is all put together for the main block, tap her off and paint.
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09-17-2013, 08:54 AM | #16 |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
Oil change won't fix and engine noise unless you've gone WAY beyond a normal interval or are just plain low on oil. If it's a lifter tick, and your oil is in normal condition, you might add some Marvel Mystery Oil (basically transmission fluid) at your next change. I've had some good luck freeing stuck lifters with that over the years.
If you still have lifter tick and you're dead set against swapping them out, you can drain the engine, add a couple of gallons of diesel to the crankcase, disconnect the distributor, and crank the engine a good 20 seconds to circulate,. Then let it sit overnight, crank it again 20 seconds, then drain. Fill it with cheap crappy oil, run it for 20 minutes, then oil change again. The diesel will clean a LOT of gunk from the crankcase and possibly free up a blocked lifter oil passage. I've had a "cheap" rebuild done locally for under $1000 on a 350 roller block, but that required no machining (just hone bores and polished mains/rods) with new rings and bearings. That's up to finding the right used core in a salvage yard though.
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09-17-2013, 12:05 PM | #17 |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
Find extra used engine, save money, rebuild, swap into truck. That way you don't have any downtime other than the weekend when you're swapping them out.
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09-17-2013, 08:41 PM | #18 | |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
Quote:
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1978 2wd Fleetside, 350/th350 headers and 10 series mufflers 1998 Jeep ZJ 4.5 lift 32s full bolt ons awaiting axles "Life is full of decisions, we make them and dont look back" |
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09-18-2013, 10:26 PM | #19 |
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Re: full rebuild? or just top end?
sounds like your lifters are not holding up once you really get some heat in the motor. try changing to a 10-40 oil with a good wix filter and see if it helps.
Also if you can find a good long block, rebuilding an engine is not a difficult thing. you will need a torque wrench, feeler gauges, 3'' micrometer, plasti gauge, some basic hand tools and a book with the correct engine specs. Other then that just double and triple checking the crank journals for correct out of round, and taper, along with ensuring the correct bearing clearance and ring gap is in place and you should have a good running setup. Find a reputable machine shop that can machine everything correctly, then just assemble it yourself, you should easily be able to buy and rebuild a basic 350 for less then 1500 and that will include a nice cam and aluminum intake, just shop around for prices and remember that usually buying a complete engine kit will save you money. |
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