Intake & Carb Install

[77ChevySharkBite]

Okay fellas I need some knowledge once again!

I just got my goodies a Edelbrock 1406 Carb and Edelbrock EPS Performer Intake. Alright so I'm going to be doing this install possibly myself if you have pictures to help that would be great to!

The kit I bought came with everything just need a couple minor things, like sealant, some fittings, and heater hose fitting that's it from what I can tell.

It's going on a small block chevy 350, I'm going to use the stock thermostat. What all do I need to replace or add, I do live in Texas no smog equipment required. Do I need a fuel filter for it? I'm going to also be buying some plugs because there are holes that I see I wont use.

Any advise is welcome and thank you as always for helping me learn!

[motornut]

take pics ,lots before you start,check your TDC, note dizzy location,and how far it is turned to remove/lift it out
I used razor blades for cleaning/scraping while using the shop vac to suc up the leftovers
make sure you use a torque wrench to get it right
watch at the back/behind the intake you may have a oil sender back there

[Lil Ape]

Buy "the right stuff" rtv from permatex. I had an oil leak like three times when i was putting on my air gap manifold. Right at the back by the oil sender unit like motornut mentioned. All because of the kind of rtv i was using. Had been using the high temp rtv and I thought I wasn't using enough, or not covering the right spot on that back rail. But I guess this stuff has a cure time and I wasn't letting it settle long enough. So it kept blowing a hole in the sealant or something. "the right stuff" fixed that, doesn't have a cure time.

[INSIDIOUS '86]

The cork or rubber middle gaskets...throw them away and fill the void with silicone. Isopropyl alcohol will clean all gaskets surfaces of oil and help prep everything to stick and adhere.
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[Dead Parrot]

If you are going to use a OE air cleaner, you may need a banjo fitting for the fuel inlet. Make sure of your throttle and trany linkages including return springs before you start. Additional brackets may be needed. Yes, you will want a fuel filter somewhere. Avoid those screw together outboard boat motor type of filters. They look pretty but there are multiple threads on this board where one of those led to fire. http://www.wholesalemarine.com/moell...Fadj7AodIB8Aqw
They are designed for the suction side of a fuel system, not the pressure side.

Since your distributor will be out anyway, now would be a good time to check, replace worn parts, upgrade it.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by motornut

take pics ,lots before you start,check your TDC, note dizzy location,and how far it is turned to remove/lift it out
I used razor blades for cleaning/scraping while using the shop vac to suc up the leftovers
make sure you use a torque wrench to get it right
watch at the back/behind the intake you may have a oil sender back there

So say I have to turn my dizzy 1 1/2 times to get it out when I put it back in is that how many times I need to turn it to make sure it's correct?

Originally Posted by Lil Ape

Buy "the right stuff" rtv from permatex. I had an oil leak like three times when i was putting on my air gap manifold. Right at the back by the oil sender unit like motornut mentioned. All because of the kind of rtv i was using. Had been using the high temp rtv and I thought I wasn't using enough, or not covering the right spot on that back rail. But I guess this stuff has a cure time and I wasn't letting it settle long enough. So it kept blowing a hole in the sealant or something. "the right stuff" fixed that, doesn't have a cure time.

Thanks for the heads up! I appreciate it.

Originally Posted by INSIDIOUS '86

The cork or rubber middle gaskets...throw them away and fill the void with silicone. Isopropyl alcohol will clean all gaskets surfaces of oil and help prep everything to stick and adhere.
Posted via Mobile Device

They didn't send me any middle gaskets the only gaskets I got were obviously for the carb to manifold, and then 2 cork gaskets for the intake manifold but they go on the side.

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

If you are going to use a OE air cleaner, you may need a banjo fitting for the fuel inlet. Make sure of your throttle and trany linkages including return springs before you start. Additional brackets may be needed. Yes, you will want a fuel filter somewhere. Avoid those screw together outboard boat motor type of filters. They look pretty but there are multiple threads on this board where one of those led to fire. http://www.wholesalemarine.com/moell...Fadj7AodIB8Aqw
They are designed for the suction side of a fuel system, not the pressure side.

Since your distributor will be out anyway, now would be a good time to check, replace worn parts, upgrade it.

I have an aftermarket air cleaner so no worries there. Yeah I was planning to get a new return spring for my throttle as it was advised. It came with a fuel filter would it be okay to use that?


Thanks guys for all the helpful advise I greatly appreciate it, just trying to get it right the first time, I'm not greatly mechanically inclined so trying to get more hands on with it so I can learn more.

[Dead Parrot]

Might consider replacing your valve cover gaskets since everything you need to move to do that will already be out of the way.

Don't know what filter they include now. Something similar to a Fram G3 should work.

I put a 1405 on a Performer manifold many years ago and it has been trouble free since. Only issue is it needs a every year or so de-gumming of the pistons the metering rods hang on. But that can be done with the carb staying on the motor and takes <10 minutes.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Okay so I need some help guys! I got most of it installed minus a few simple things, so of course I have power brakes or brake booster, I know it's plugged into the back of the carb well on my edelbrock the bolt that was connected to it on the q-jet it's too big so what do I need to do?

[geezer#99]

Take the fitting from the quad and the plug from the eddy and go to the parts store. You either need a bushing or a new fitting. Not hard to match up.

[izzy_Britton]

I am fairly certain NAPA is nationwide so there may be one near you, but they have a little plastic box behind the counter full of plastic vacuum fittings and such for this exact reason. I just did the 1406 on my truck, i have a eddy performer as well (but not installed yet) on my stock intake manifold there was a large vacuum port (on/in the manifold) behind the carb that i used for the power brake booster hose. my original metal booster line broke when trying to remove the fitting from the q-jet so i replaced it with rubber all the way to the booster.



crappy photo but it is the only one i have taken thus far.

The large vacuum port on the front (center) is routed to the PCV.

As for the filter, i used the crappy clear plastic inline unit that was supplied with my carb. still ticking.

-Izzy

p.s. my carb replacement was an emergency thing so please forgive the ugliness under the hood, it will be cleaned up later. :/

[77ChevySharkBite]

Well I tried to get the fitting off the q-jet but it's just not coming off a friend of mine that has a carter carb, has what looks to be like a heater hose fitting if I could find the right size could I use that?

[izzy_Britton]

Originally Posted by 77ChevySharkBite

Well I tried to get the fitting off the q-jet but it's just not coming off a friend of mine that has a carter carb, has what looks to be like a heater hose fitting if I could find the right size could I use that?

as long as you can stuff it in the hole and seal it securely you can use anything that suits your fancy.

so easy answer is yes. if it threads in and your hose fits it, use it.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Hey izzy yeah that's what mine looks like but I have the intake installed right now as well I didn't want to spend more money than necessary so I'm still using the stock thermostat and the vaccum port that's on the original. There is an NAPA close to me about 15 minutes away from my house didn't think to go check them out for the part. I plan to upgrade the fuel filter sometime in the future but not right now of course.

Izzy can you post some pictures closer to how your throttle linkage and such is installed? That's another issue I'm having as well.

[izzy_Britton]

Originally Posted by 77ChevySharkBite

Hey izzy yeah that's what mine looks like but I have the intake installed right now as well I didn't want to spend more money than necessary so I'm still using the stock thermostat and the vaccum port that's on the original. There is an NAPA close to me about 15 minutes away from my house didn't think to go check them out for the part. I plan to upgrade the fuel filter sometime in the future but not right now of course.

Izzy can you post some pictures closer to how your throttle linkage and such is installed? That's another issue I'm having as well.

If by upgrade fuel filter you mean to actually upgrade the one they sent with the kit then that will be fine. but if by upgrade you mean install one later, i would install one now before you get some nasties in your float bowl that might inhibit proper functions. cheap plastic pile of junk is better than nothing at all.

I am planning to change out my thermostat housing when i do the intake as my stock is an 86 with all sorts of switches and vacuum lines going to it and it is meant for paper gasket thermostats, and i want to change to an o-ring gasketed thermostat. nothing fancy or chrome just useable and service free.

I have been running mine since july and have had not one single problem with the carb. I also changed the distributor as mine was not a vacuum advance unit, it is running wonderfully.

the only problems i had with my swap was that the plug wire keeps were attached to the air injection tubes and when i removed those i burned thru 2 sets of wires in just under 100 miles and spend hours putting new wires on and tying them all sano outta the way.

-Izzy

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by izzy_Britton

If by upgrade fuel filter you mean to actually upgrade the one they sent with the kit then that will be fine. but if by upgrade you mean install one later, i would install one now before you get some nasties in your float bowl that might inhibit proper functions. cheap plastic pile of junk is better than nothing at all.

I am planning to change out my thermostat housing when i do the intake as my stock is an 86 with all sorts of switches and vacuum lines going to it and it is meant for paper gasket thermostats, and i want to change to an o-ring gasketed thermostat. nothing fancy or chrome just useable and service free.

I have been running mine since july and have had not one single problem with the carb. I also changed the distributor as mine was not a vacuum advance unit, it is running wonderfully.

the only problems i had with my swap was that the plug wire keeps were attached to the air injection tubes and when i removed those i burned thru 2 sets of wires in just under 100 miles and spend hours putting new wires on and tying them all sano outta the way.

-Izzy

Hey thanks Izzy! Very true, going to keep it cause like you said something is better than nothing.

Yeah mine is an o-ring with just one port for like all the vacuum lines that I have for my truck. I've heard a lot of great things about the 1406 part of why I went with it, plus the simplicity of it all.

Yeah I believe mine is vacuum advance but I could be wrong. I'm very new to the old school carb motors world so I'm learning along the way.

I guess I don't have those wires on mine because I have no idea what your talking about I didn't see any or have any get in the way of mine when I was doing the work on mine.

Here's how mine is set up, not sure if you can tell the difference.

[geezer#99]

You need the right fitting for your booster line to attach to the carb. THe booster line is a flare fitting. The line into the carb is a pipe thread.
Spend a little and do your fuel line right. Here's a fuel line kit that will work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectre-2985...#ht_1708wt_813

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

You need the right fitting for your booster line to attach to the carb. THe booster line is a flare fitting. The line into the carb is a pipe thread.
Spend a little and do your fuel line right. Here's a fuel line kit that will work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectre-2985...#ht_1708wt_813

So I'd be unable to get a new pipe thread, and then get say 2 clamps to clamp it down behind the carb and onto the brake booster housing?

[79Betty]

Don't forget to plug your HEI in... Chased that one around for a week as i plugged it in the tach spot...
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[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by 79Betty

Don't forget to plug your HEI in... Chased that one around for a week as i plugged it in the tach spot...
Posted via Mobile Device

I'm not sure I have HEI, but if it's plugged to the distributors cap I already have that taken care off all the wires and everything are plugged back into place.

[geezer#99]

You have HEI.
Big cap with coil on top is the giveaway.
You need a flare to npt fitting like this in the link to hook your line from the booster to the carb. You have one on your quadrajet. Take a pic of the area behind your carb so we can see what you're dealing with.
http://northwesthydraline.com/fittin...me.php?cat=474

[77ChevySharkBite]

Oh cool! Thanks geezer#99 I learned something new today!

Here's my q-jet anyone have any advice on how to get the bolt off I tried my wrench didn't budge an inch, haven't tried a socket, also have a impact gun I could use but that's my last resort to use.

[geezer#99]

You need to tie the carb down so it doesn.t move.
Bolt the carb back on your old intake and then you can use a box end wrench like your craftsman or a socket on the fitting to remove it from the carb. They're tight sometimes.

[77ChevySharkBite]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

You need to tie the carb down so it doesn.t move.
Bolt the carb back on your old intake and then you can use a box end wrench like your craftsman or a socket on the fitting to remove it from the carb. They're tight sometimes.

Okay thanks geezer! I'm mainly just needing leverage to be able to get it off?

[geezer#99]

THat's the easiest way.
Or hold the carb down, put the box end on the fitting and tap on the end of the wrench with a hammer to loosen it.
You can make a longer lever out of your box ends like in this link. Check the hairy arm pic with the 2 wrenches.
http://www.3geez.com/forum/technical...med-bolts.html

[77ChevySharkBite]

Thanks geezer! I'm going to have to try that tonight.