Big Brake Upgrade

[mechanic350]

So im going to upgrade the brakes on my 72 in Jan/Feb to Wilwood 13 inch rotors with 6 piston calipers up front and 4 piston calipers out back and im trying to cover all my bases before diving into this job. My question is whether or not to upgrade the master cylinder and booster to compensate for the new brakes or am i just over thinking it. any help would be great.

[Pro Performance]

It is a good idea to upgrade the booster and master to a new unit when switching brakes, but not necessarily a necessity in your case. Since your truck came with disc brakes, the master you have will work with a new Wilwood system. It is most important to match your master cylinder to the front brake setup.... A disc master with disc brakes. You will more than likely want to run a prop valve for the rear.

Let us know when you are ready for the brakes, as we are a direct dealer for Wilwood.

[mechanic350]

Yes I already have a proportioning valve in the truck but im going to upgrade to a wilwood proportioning valve with the new brakes. I was curious how much they would cost from your site. i was looking and didnt quite find the brakes im looking at getting. the model numbers are 140-10775-D for the front and 140-10093-D for the rear. its the 12.88 inch rotor with 6 pistons in front and 4 in the rear. Im looking at ordering them through JEGs right now because I get a discount being active duty military. I do like your wheel selection alot though. i want to run 18x8 in the front and 18x10 or 12 in the rear for the added traction.

[Pro Performance]

We do have them on the site, and if you would like, give me a call Monday and can give you a military discount as well. Those systems you mentioned, go well together and think you will like that setup.


http://www.azproperformance.com/Wilw...0-10775-D.html

http://www.azproperformance.com/Wilw...0-10093-D.html

[mechanic350]

ok so i got my new brakes on and thought the rear brakes was going to be the problem but instead its been the fronts. after getting the new spindles that are for this kit as discussed about i went to tighten down a few lugs on the rotor per the instructions to aid in installation and the rotor hits the lower control arm. the only thing i can think of is that the drop spring along with the drop spindle has put it too low and now the rotor hits. so I'm thinking that either i grind down the lower control arm or get new control arms i prefer to grind because its cheaper. any suggestions?

[DreamRyder1963]

I would just grind a bit off and see I'd that takes care of.it.

[mechanic350]

Yeah I'll be doing that in the morning just to check and see if it works

[Pro Performance]

Can you post a picture?

[mechanic350]

I took some pictures today from a few different angles. I'm also having a tiny bit of difficulty sliding the brakes on to the new hubs. but that is a side concern at this point. and it doesn't bother me much

[Pro Performance]

I don't see why this rotor is back so far, hitting the control arm. I haven't seen this before. Does the caliper opening line up with the rotors when trying to attach it to the caliper mounting bracket?

[lolife99]

CPP modular spindles???
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=526033

[Pro Performance]

Those part numbers he mentioned do require the CPP modular, but first I have heard of it hitting.... I would say in this case, trimming would be the best option. Shouldn't take much from looking at the pictures.

[mechanic350]

yeah the cpp spindles called for in the brake kit from wilwood. the only thing i can think of that happened is that the wrong spindles got pulled when i picked them up. here is the picture you asked for pro performance. and as you can see. save for the need to remove one of the shims. it fits just fine.

[Pro Performance]

Thanks for the picture. It was just making sure that you had the right hub / rotor, and something wasn't off there, causing the rotor to sit back father.

[mechanic350]

thanks for the 2nd check on that. its baffling me too. my simplest option right now is to grind down on the lower control arm just enough to make it clear. but we will see what happens. I'm talking with cpp about it via email right now.

[Andy4639]

I realize the truck is up on jackstands but this looks as though the rotor is angled way in at the bottom. Could be camera angle as well. Also looks as though the ball joint isn't seated in the picture. Shouldn't the boot cover the whole area? I'm just asking.

[mechanic350]

I agree that it is at a different angle I have tried to get it to seat more and it didn't move. I'm gonna look at that again today but at the same time it would just move the point where it's touching up more on the rotor closer to the center.

[Andy4639]

Understand, but until you have it right you really want know how much to grind off to clear the rotor. I have herd that going to these big brakes that the a-arms need to be shaved off to clear them.

[mechanic350]

i shaved off a little bit of the lower a arm today and it seems to be clearing just fine. not sure how much i need it to clear by but at least for now it clears and i can keep moving on with the brake upgrade. on a side note i will have the old brakes for sale soon.

[mechanic350]

Now the issue is getting. The parking brake to fully engage. It doesn't look to be pulling it far enough to engage the brake within the rotor. I have adjusted the shoes and the block that the cables run through and the block that the cables are mounted into to be pulled by. Any help would be great. I've emailed wildwood to see what they say. And I'll take some pictures today after work.

[mechanic350]

so i did say screw it and put her back on the ground sans parking brake so i don't have that but at least i have a truck to drive.