Known Trouble Spots 55-59 1/2 ton

[Fredthecat]

Currently looking at 55-59 1/2 ton pickups for sale.

What are known rust/trouble spots to check extra close?
e.g. Door bottoms, cab floors, inner fenders, headlight buckets etc.

Thanks

[GMtrucknut!!]

You just made a great starting list add the hinge pockets , and cab corners and you have it !!

[FirstNation]

Also- it's absolutely critical to check for rust out where the top of the windshield meets the overhang of the roof! Gotta be the worst area to have to repair or replace!

[roger55]

Check out my build thread. I detail the rust issues in my '57 3200. I've got a lot of it fixed at this point but a little more to go.

[Fredthecat]

Thanks, this is the info I seek.
Cab corners behind seat/under gas tank?
Would have missed that and the windshield overhang, thanks.

Speaker? In a pick up truck?

Thanks guys

[Fredthecat]

Thanks Roger55, your photos give me lots of spots to look for ....to avoid the work you took on....way beyond me.

[OrrieG]

option, mounts over mirror. check the bed wood sills at front panel and tailgate. on stepsides area where fender bolts to bed. on fleetsides the wheel openings.

[roger55]

Originally Posted by Fredthecat

Thanks Roger55, your photos give me lots of spots to look for ....to avoid the work you took on....way beyond me.

I hope you are able to find a rust-free truck. Be careful of cover-up jobs.

If you find one, I'd seal all the rust prone areas. Eastwood makes a spray can sealer with a flexible hose nozzle. The market it for the inside of frame rails but it would work well for inside doors and cab corners and such.

[Fredthecat]

Not expecting to find rust free truck, rather "rust reduced". Helps a lot to know what to look close at. Value you sharing experiences. Very wise to previous owner cover ups & "new" paint hiding trouble.

Searching CA, NV and AZ for good-vg unrestored '57 3100/3200 w/235. Have nice 3100 bed.

Added fender dog leg bottoms, headlight eyebrows to list.

[dwcsr]

The hardest spots to repair in my opinion are:
Above the windshield inside and out.
Around the rear window inside and out
Above the doors at the roof line
Inner cowl by the vents
Upper firewall where the inner cowl and outer cowl meet.

Most all the other areas you can get panels for and replace them with out a lot of trouble.

[dwcsr]

opps

[roger55]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

The hardest spots to repair in my opinion are:
Above the windshield inside and out.
Around the rear window inside and out
Above the doors at the roof line
Inner cowl by the vents
Upper firewall where the inner cowl and outer cowl meet.

Most all the other areas you can get panels for and replace them with out a lot of trouble.

I'm having to deal with some of what you have listed here.

I would have to add door bottoms to this list. Welding shrinkage on the lower outer portion is a real headache to deal with during this repair. The shape of the lower outer patch panels isn't perfect either adding to this headache.

[OrrieG]

[QUOTE=roger55;6407613
You are also going to need to have a garage to work in and a decent air compressor and some air tools. You will also need a good mig welder. Start looking at those now. I suggest you only look at Miller, Hobart or Lincoln models. A 110 Volt unit is fine but you must have gas.[/QUOTE]

Might need to locate a rich girlfriend or wife too >8^))

[oldcouple]

Passenger side floor and toe board, from where the battery leaks for years.

[TJ's Chevy]

WOWZA! That is one hole! LOL! Serves as great air conditioning for the summer! lol!

[_Ogre]

this is caused by the cowl vent plugging up with leaves and water or leakage around the windshield
also why i recommend shaving the cowl vent on task force trucks

[roger55]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

this is caused by the cowl vent plugging up with leaves and water or leakage around the windshield
also why i recommend shaving the cowl vent on task force trucks

I like the functionality of the original fresh air vents to ever consider doing that.

I'm removing my cowl side covers, redesigning the gutters to put in at an angle so they don't collect leaves and debris, blasting the entire area and coating with epoxy primer before reinstalling the cowl covers. The area wont ever rust again.