66 wont start need help. Grrrrrrr

[lwb66]

Guys i'm in dire need here. I got a 66 chevy truck that wont start. It was running fine one minute, I killed it walked in the shop to grab a drink came back and it wouldn't start. No Power to key, no headlights, radio comes on but blast high frequency static.. I have a small old school fan that's getting power to it. So what on earth would cause no power to the ignition and no headlights. All my fuses under the dash are good (well not blown anyway). Are the lights tied into the ignition key switch? and I have a bad key switch? Sorry for all the questions but I'm at a lose here.

1966 chevy
sbc 283
standard trans

[1963c-10]

headlights go through the headlight switch. if the headlights wont come on then switch is either bad or its not getting any power. id start w/checking the voltage of the battery. if you know the battery is good then you can at least eliminate that and start checking wiring. make sure you plugs are in good and that you have good grounds.

[1963c-10]

if the battery is dead and wont hold a charge it may be due for a replacement. if battery holds a charge, id check alternator and voltage regulator. if you have good battery and charging systems...you can continue to switches

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Last time that happened to me it was a bad battery connection. Wires were clamped down fine but it wouldn't get juice when I turned the key (fan ran fine). The fix was taking the battery post off, cleaning it all out to shiny happy metal again and re-connect.

Might not be your problem, but it might.


Or your alternator went out and didn't charge the battery. that'll run the fan but nothing with any torque like the starter.

[jtrichard]

i don't know if 66 has it or not is there a heavy wire from the battery across the core support to the left side where the regulator is ? if so check there might be a bad connection at the battery

[NEWFISHER]

Fusable link wire at the starter? Check battery loaded, then check " I " terminal at starter (closest to frame rail) for voltage when key turned to "start" and verify good current. The other pole on the solonoid is the "s" terminal and should have a purple wire running to coil. This won't keep it from turning over.

[tincan1966]

Originally Posted by NEWFISHER

Fusable link wire at the starter? Check battery loaded, then check " I " terminal at starter (closest to frame rail) for voltage when key turned to "start" and verify good current. The other pole on the solonoid is the "s" terminal and should have a purple wire running to coil. This won't keep it from turning over.

Sorry but need to correct you here.

On the starter solenoid, the two small terminals are marked 'R" for run and will have a small wire running up to the + side of the coil if running points ignition. The other terminal or "S" is closest to engine should have the purple wire and will only have 12V+ when cranking.

In original configuration there is no fusible link at the starter to supply power to the ignition switch or accessories. As mentioned aboue there is a 10ga wire that connects at the battery + terminal and goes across the radiator support to the horn repay, which also acts as a junction. power is then distributed to the ignition switch thru a 12 ga red wire in the driver's side fenderwell harness to the bulkhead connector.

First question: is it not starting ?or not cranking over?-big difference.

I would check for 12v at the ignition switch(marked BATT on back of switch)
If you have 12V there check the pink wire "IGN" on back of switch with key "on"
If that checks out, make sure truck is in neutral or Park, and turn key to "start" with tester on the purple or "ST" terminal of switch.

If there is 12v to the BATT on switch but not the others, then you possibly have a bad switch.

NOTE: recommend using a Voltmeter to test with as most test lights will light with as little as 5 volts, which will not make the components work.

[66Project]

Im not sure if the ignition switch power goes thur one of those glass fuses but dont trust just looking at them. Meter them out...that's if you haven't already.

[jtrichard]

Tincan since we are correcting things here the "R" terminal i believe stands for resistor as in it hooks to the coil side of the resistor/+ on coil and is HOT start...full 12volts to the coil for starting only.... no power FROM the solenoid after starting/running

[tincan1966]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

Tincan since we are correcting things here the "R" terminal i believe stands for resistor as in it hooks to the coil side of the resistor/+ on coil and is HOT start...full 12volts to the coil for starting only.... no power FROM the solenoid after starting/running

You are correct and that is what I said. It is only HOT when the starter is running(cranking)

[tincan1966]

I guess since we do not know if the truck is not cranking, or cranks and won't start(two completely different scenarios and diagnosis) It doesn't do much good to guess and what will help.

[lwb66]

Thanks Guys for all the help and recommendations. The issue turned out to be a bad battery cable wire.. Replaced the wire and she is back on the road.. Once again thanks to all that replied..

[1963c-10]

Glad it was an easy fix and you got it going

[FetchMeAPepsi]

Originally Posted by lwb66

Thanks Guys for all the help and recommendations. The issue turned out to be a bad battery cable wire.. Replaced the wire and she is back on the road.. Once again thanks to all that replied..

LOL! Welcome to my world. The same thing plagued me for weeks. Glad you got it fixed!