Need some pro advice on rear suspension. Extremely narrowed rear.

[Strykerta]

Well i will post a shot of what im dealing with. I have a custom 9 and some 15x14 wheels. The perch distance on stock rear trailing arms is around 40 inches. My setup will require them to be at 35 total space. Which means i need to bring each in 2.5 or so which will take the rear back a small amount but not what im concerned with. I guess what im looking for is opinions on whether i should try to use stock style trailing arms from cpp or porter or do some type of custom triangulated 4 link. I wont be able to have trailing arm coils so i will have to go coilover either way. Also im not worried about having to clearence the perches or the crossmember to get the correct geometry. Has anyone done anything similar to this on here? Which will be the best option for a mild pro touring build. Tires are gonna be mickey thompson sportmans that are 31 tall and the drivetrain is a 6 liter ls and 4l80e. Thanks for any help guys

[Strykerta]

[andrewmp6]

You kinda only have two options a parallel 4 link or maybe a custom 3 link with a nice long torque arm.The parallel 4 link would be the easier of the two to do.

[Clyde65]

I would give Porterbuilt a call and see what John's advice is.

[Hertzdaddy]

You might try posting in the racing forum. They have a lot of experience with setups like this.

[PBFAB.COM]

I would recommend going with an inboard parallel four link. We are working on one right now for a customer who is running a similar set up. Shoot us an email if you would like some more info/pics. Should have some to share in a day or two.

Nate

[Strykerta]

Thanks guys. I sent ya an email Nate thanks for any info.

[robnolimit]

It really doesn't look that narrow. What is the distance between the rims? and, the overall width of the rear axle.
Trailing arms can be used, but the front mount will need to be addressed. Changing the front of the trailing arm to a pivoting adjuster is an option. Keeping the suspension components as 'wide' apart as reasonable will help in ride and handling. Even to pull the rails in farther and keep the bars/arms/links and coil-overs outboard. Is this mostly a cruizer, or will it be going to the drags? You can keep the trailing arms for a cruizer, but go to a 4-link for straight line traction.

[Strykerta]

Rob thats exactly what i was considering. Its 39.75" between rim edges and with tires the section width is around 18 so i lose 3 inchs off the total. i flexed the trailing arms into position and it didnt seem like i would need to do to much on the crossmember to get them to that corrected angle. I was just concerned with handling with the arms being narrowed up. The truck will be a cruiser but all the motors i have are 500 hp and up so i want it to be able to handle a thrashing every now and then.

[PGSigns]

Find a set of the Nascar trailing arms. They have a pivot ball in the front. Should easily get you what you need. My set was $80 from a local racer. When you weld up the pads and panhard bar mounts weld slow and not in one spot long. Will keep the distortion on the tubes to a minimum. When we were building drag cars the housing ends were the last to go on when all other welding was done. I have fixed housings that moved 3/16" from the welding.
Jimmy

[Strykerta]

Any chance you have any pics of what your talking about. I havent heard of them. I assume your just talking about putting a heim joint on the existing arm?

[mongoose]

Id run a torque arm personally...

[PGSigns]

No where the bushing would go in the front of the trailing arm there is a ball swivel in that location that is 1 1/2" in diameter. Much heavier than any rod end. Just do a search on ebay and most of the time there are several sets for sale.
Jimmy

[Strykerta]

Jimmy Im not finding anything in the 1-1/2 size. All ive been finding are the johnny joints and ballistic joints in 2" which i guess i could use just would have to cust and weld them in. Over the weekened i pulled the wood bed out rolled the rear end in and it looks like i need to narrow the rear frame up a bit. Looks like im going to get the plasma cutter and some 3/16 plate and make my own backhalf. Not sute if inbound parallel or a triangulated setup will fit better need to cut the bumpstops off so i can slide it up and measure. This project just got a whole lot more involved.