Re-wiring my truck - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

cigar- · 04-13-2014, 05:28 PM

After spending way too much time trying to get the stock wiring straightened out on my truck, I have decided to remove it all. I have a connection (no pun intended) on a Ron Francis wiring kit.

Here are my questions:

1 - is the stock gauge that says "battery" a volt meter or an ammeter? It will make a difference I know that.

2 - has anyone done this task before? I have to believe the answer is yes. What problems if any have been encountered?

3 - my truck is a base model C10 so I don't have a lot of accessories like A/C and such. All I am going to run is radio, heater, lights and such. Any thoughts or suggestions?

4 - any suggestions on how to make the stock instrument panel plug come into the mix with all new wiring panel?

Thanks for the help!

**LockDoc** · 04-13-2014, 07:18 PM

-
Read through this thread and see if it helps any.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=521437

LockDoc

cigar- · 04-13-2014, 07:43 PM

LockDoc,

I thank you for the help. The thread really only confused me more.

I didn't want to spend a huge amount of money on getting this truck running. Yeah I know......lots say that about an old vehicle. I attempted to patch together stock wiring and I'd so pretty well. I don't have a mess of soldered wires resulting in a mish mosh of junk.

I fired up the motor Friday and it ran fine. I went to fire it up yesterday and today and I get nothing. The horn doesn't work...no lights...nothing when I turn the switch. Yes, I checked the b artery and it's got plenty of juice. All I can figure is the 30 amp fuse I put in place (replacing the fusible link) blew. If that's the case I have no idea why it did. If hats the problem then I still need to address that as it makes the truck unreliable.

This isn't anything more than a beater truck and now it seems that re-wiring it is the best solution. If I do so the issue of e gauge connector being wired up properly is a huge issue. I have a wiring schematic to compare to the wiring in the truck. Today is we that the wires on the schematic differ from the ones in the truck. The colors are different. I have spent two hours tracing wire on an old harness to connection points to verify what goe where. This all leads to more frustration.

The truck might just get left in the back yard or sold so I can return to my 32 roadster project...... I wish this was a bit easier. If only after market gauges fit into the stock cluster!!!!!!

SS Tim · 04-13-2014, 07:45 PM

I'd recommend taking a hard look at a quality exact replacement harness rather than adapting a universal replacement kit. The high end kits seem expensive but the installation time and long term reliabilty should be factored in. Sorry but I have seen too many "new harness" installations that were probably worse than what they replaced with poorly crimped cut to fit terminals or worse spliced on original connectors and pigtails.

SS Tim · 04-13-2014, 07:52 PM

Dug around and found that you apparently have a 71 C10. So the first thing I suggest is downloading a copy of the factory service manuals from here. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=558016
Then review section 12 on the wiring and schematics as they pretty much were in 71. The common multi-year generic diagrams are just not up to the task on the later trucks.

SS Tim · 04-13-2014, 08:01 PM

It is important to remember that the cluster connector pinout is different between trucks with warning lights and trucks with gauges. They are not a direct swap if someone is changing clusters. The wires require repining.

cigar- · 04-13-2014, 08:23 PM

SSTim,

I think I am finding that out. After the hours tracing wires on an old cluster plug in relation to the actual gauge and schematic, things are definitely different.

**LockDoc** · 04-13-2014, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cigar-

LockDoc,

I thank you for the help. The thread really only confused me more.

I didn't want to spend a huge amount of money on getting this truck running. Yeah I know......lots say that about an old vehicle. I attempted to patch together stock wiring and I'd so pretty well. I don't have a mess of soldered wires resulting in a mish mosh of junk.

I fired up the motor Friday and it ran fine. I went to fire it up yesterday and today and I get nothing. The horn doesn't work...no lights...nothing when I turn the switch. Yes, I checked the b artery and it's got plenty of juice. All I can figure is the 30 amp fuse I put in place (replacing the fusible link) blew. If that's the case I have no idea why it did. If hats the problem then I still need to address that as it makes the truck unreliable.

This isn't anything more than a beater truck and now it seems that re-wiring it is the best solution. If I do so the issue of e gauge connector being wired up properly is a huge issue. I have a wiring schematic to compare to the wiring in the truck. Today is we that the wires on the schematic differ from the ones in the truck. The colors are different. I have spent two hours tracing wire on an old harness to connection points to verify what goe where. This all leads to more frustration.

The truck might just get left in the back yard or sold so I can return to my 32 roadster project...... I wish this was a bit easier. If only after market gauges fit into the stock cluster!!!!!!

I have always used the original wiring and re-built it so I'm not much help on the aftermarket stuff. Sorry about adding to the confusion. Don't give up on it. You can get it figured out.

LockDoc

cigar- · 04-15-2014, 01:09 AM

Well.......after spending some time online today, I found a web site ( or was directed to one ) that showed me the difference in gauge cluster plug wiring. Yes, they are different from gauges to idiot lights. One good thing is the spare harness I have ( for chasing wire direction/location) is a harness for gauges.

LockDoc.....I think I better understand that schematic you sent above. If I am not mistaken I can wire up the stock battery gauge tat way and it should work fine? That's a huge concern is trying to keep the stock gauges and not have a volt gauge under the dash.

In talking to American Autowire and Ron Francis, both have the printed circuit plug that goes into the back of the stock cluster. If I went with a new wiring system I could then wire things up a bit better and a more clean and effective application.

Slowly this will come together......

MARKDTN · 04-15-2014, 07:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS Tim

I'd recommend taking a hard look at a quality exact replacement harness rather than adapting a universal replacement kit. The high end kits seem expensive but the installation time and long term reliabilty should be factored in. Sorry but I have seen too many "new harness" installations that were probably worse than what they replaced with poorly crimped cut to fit terminals or worse spliced on original connectors and pigtails.

This is extremely sound advice. I could not agree more. Aftermarket harness is OK if you are not reusing anything factory. By the time you get the right ends put on correctly on an aftermarket harness, you can have a factory style in and be driving.

JIMINITWIN'72 · 04-26-2014, 10:51 PM

http://www.hotrodwires.com/
Try this vendor,,,Long story short I used this companies wire harness and was very impressed. The only connector that I had to purchasr was the main plug for the printed circuit board in the instrument cluster, You can pick this up from Classic Industries for about$16.00. I also recommend soldering all of you connections..

BigMike · 04-26-2014, 11:21 PM

I used a Painless kit designed for our trucks. Plugs right into the back of the factory gauges with no problems or mess. You can also add various "kits" for running factory A/C, H/O Alternator, etc... Each wire was printed with where it goes to (I think every foot its printed). Only a few connectors but I went ahead and soldered all of my connections once they were routed and cut to length. If I had to do it all over I would not hesitate to go with them. I think I like the look and quality of the Ron Francis kit better but it's more $$$ as well.

cigar- · 04-27-2014, 01:47 AM

First I want to thank all of those that took time and effort to reply. This site is a huge asset to have access to for trucks that are almost 40 years old. Myself I'm in the wire and cable business but it's all aerospace stuff. But.....I know all about wire and heat shrink tubing.

I have opted for a Ron Francis kit as I get a great deal on them. For the gauges I thunkbim going to take the plunge and buy a new insert with Classic gauges. I ran into some $$ so it's a nice upgrade I can afford to make at this time.

All I want to have is a reliable old beater when I'm done!

04-13-2014, 05:28 PM	#1
cigar- Registered User Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Smith, NV Posts: 110	Re-wiring my truck After spending way too much time trying to get the stock wiring straightened out on my truck, I have decided to remove it all. I have a connection (no pun intended) on a Ron Francis wiring kit. Here are my questions: 1 - is the stock gauge that says "battery" a volt meter or an ammeter? It will make a difference I know that. 2 - has anyone done this task before? I have to believe the answer is yes. What problems if any have been encountered? 3 - my truck is a base model C10 so I don't have a lot of accessories like A/C and such. All I am going to run is radio, heater, lights and such. Any thoughts or suggestions? 4 - any suggestions on how to make the stock instrument panel plug come into the mix with all new wiring panel? Thanks for the help!

04-13-2014, 07:18 PM	#2
LockDoc The Older Generation Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Montezuma, Iowa Posts: 25,850	Re: Re-wiring my truck - Read through this thread and see if it helps any. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=521437 LockDoc __________________ Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 -

04-13-2014, 07:43 PM	#3
cigar- Registered User Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Smith, NV Posts: 110	Re: Re-wiring my truck LockDoc, I thank you for the help. The thread really only confused me more. I didn't want to spend a huge amount of money on getting this truck running. Yeah I know......lots say that about an old vehicle. I attempted to patch together stock wiring and I'd so pretty well. I don't have a mess of soldered wires resulting in a mish mosh of junk. I fired up the motor Friday and it ran fine. I went to fire it up yesterday and today and I get nothing. The horn doesn't work...no lights...nothing when I turn the switch. Yes, I checked the b artery and it's got plenty of juice. All I can figure is the 30 amp fuse I put in place (replacing the fusible link) blew. If that's the case I have no idea why it did. If hats the problem then I still need to address that as it makes the truck unreliable. This isn't anything more than a beater truck and now it seems that re-wiring it is the best solution. If I do so the issue of e gauge connector being wired up properly is a huge issue. I have a wiring schematic to compare to the wiring in the truck. Today is we that the wires on the schematic differ from the ones in the truck. The colors are different. I have spent two hours tracing wire on an old harness to connection points to verify what goe where. This all leads to more frustration. The truck might just get left in the back yard or sold so I can return to my 32 roadster project...... I wish this was a bit easier. If only after market gauges fit into the stock cluster!!!!!!

04-13-2014, 07:45 PM	#4
SS Tim Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Edwards, CA Posts: 7,507	Re: Re-wiring my truck I'd recommend taking a hard look at a quality exact replacement harness rather than adapting a universal replacement kit. The high end kits seem expensive but the installation time and long term reliabilty should be factored in. Sorry but I have seen too many "new harness" installations that were probably worse than what they replaced with poorly crimped cut to fit terminals or worse spliced on original connectors and pigtails. __________________ Thanks, Tim * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here Highlanders Do you have a 1972 Plaid Pickup? Plaid Blazer ** Plaid Suburban

04-13-2014, 07:52 PM	#5
SS Tim Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Edwards, CA Posts: 7,507	Re: Re-wiring my truck Dug around and found that you apparently have a 71 C10. So the first thing I suggest is downloading a copy of the factory service manuals from here. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=558016 Then review section 12 on the wiring and schematics as they pretty much were in 71. The common multi-year generic diagrams are just not up to the task on the later trucks. __________________ Thanks, Tim * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here Highlanders Do you have a 1972 Plaid Pickup? Plaid Blazer ** Plaid Suburban

04-13-2014, 08:01 PM	#6
SS Tim Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Edwards, CA Posts: 7,507	Re: Re-wiring my truck It is important to remember that the cluster connector pinout is different between trucks with warning lights and trucks with gauges. They are not a direct swap if someone is changing clusters. The wires require repining. __________________ Thanks, Tim * VIN/Model Decoders * Power Team Charts (engine/transmission/gear ratio) * Post Your Pickup SPID Blazer SPID Suburban/Panel SPID * RTFM ... Read The Factory Manuals... download 'em here Highlanders Do you have a 1972 Plaid Pickup? Plaid Blazer ** Plaid Suburban

04-13-2014, 08:23 PM	#7
cigar- Registered User Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Smith, NV Posts: 110	Re: Re-wiring my truck SSTim, I think I am finding that out. After the hours tracing wires on an old cluster plug in relation to the actual gauge and schematic, things are definitely different.

04-15-2014, 01:09 AM	#9
cigar- Registered User Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Smith, NV Posts: 110	Re: Re-wiring my truck Well.......after spending some time online today, I found a web site ( or was directed to one ) that showed me the difference in gauge cluster plug wiring. Yes, they are different from gauges to idiot lights. One good thing is the spare harness I have ( for chasing wire direction/location) is a harness for gauges. LockDoc.....I think I better understand that schematic you sent above. If I am not mistaken I can wire up the stock battery gauge tat way and it should work fine? That's a huge concern is trying to keep the stock gauges and not have a volt gauge under the dash. In talking to American Autowire and Ron Francis, both have the printed circuit plug that goes into the back of the stock cluster. If I went with a new wiring system I could then wire things up a bit better and a more clean and effective application. Slowly this will come together......

04-26-2014, 10:51 PM	#11
JIMINITWIN'72 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Fort Worth, Texas Posts: 21	Re: Re-wiring my truck http://www.hotrodwires.com/ Try this vendor,,,Long story short I used this companies wire harness and was very impressed. The only connector that I had to purchasr was the main plug for the printed circuit board in the instrument cluster, You can pick this up from Classic Industries for about$16.00. I also recommend soldering all of you connections.. __________________ It is what it is, Cause it was what it was...

04-26-2014, 11:21 PM	#12
BigMike Registered User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Rancho Santa Margarita - SoCal Posts: 1,432	Re: Re-wiring my truck I used a Painless kit designed for our trucks. Plugs right into the back of the factory gauges with no problems or mess. You can also add various "kits" for running factory A/C, H/O Alternator, etc... Each wire was printed with where it goes to (I think every foot its printed). Only a few connectors but I went ahead and soldered all of my connections once they were routed and cut to length. If I had to do it all over I would not hesitate to go with them. I think I like the look and quality of the Ron Francis kit better but it's more $$$ as well. __________________ Mike My 69 SWB Project Father/Son 72 Nova Project My Airbrushed RC Car Bodies

04-27-2014, 01:47 AM	#13
cigar- Registered User Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Smith, NV Posts: 110	Re: Re-wiring my truck First I want to thank all of those that took time and effort to reply. This site is a huge asset to have access to for trucks that are almost 40 years old. Myself I'm in the wire and cable business but it's all aerospace stuff. But.....I know all about wire and heat shrink tubing. I have opted for a Ron Francis kit as I get a great deal on them. For the gauges I thunkbim going to take the plunge and buy a new insert with Classic gauges. I ran into some $$ so it's a nice upgrade I can afford to make at this time. All I want to have is a reliable old beater when I'm done!



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