1970 c20 drum brakes stopping power when towing

[paulbrgr9999]

I wanted to get opinions regarding using my 1970 c20 to tow a small toy hauler (4 to 5 thousand pounds max) with the drum brakes I have now. I have to admit that the brakes require a lot of input to stop right now. Of course the trailer will have brakes.

I have looked at the disc upgrades avaliable but I got to say installing them is beyond my ability. Paying a shop is going to cost me probably 3 grand to upgrade to disc.

The truck has power brakes but they are underwelming. Maybe I am just spoiled because I can stop my 09 ford ranger quickly with just my big toe on the brake petal.

Anyone have any ideas for improving the drum brakes at a reasonable cost without a lot of technical ability ie bolt on stuff?

paul

[69chevytrucker]

if your trailer has brakes it shouldnt be too bad
as for the disc set up it is not all that hard if you can turn a wrench at all it is pretty easy to do just looks hard im sure on here some where there is a step by step setup here somewhere

[paulbrgr9999]

Thanks for the reply. I think I could do the upgrade. But I have severe time, garage, and work constrants. I want to retire in two years and I could do it then. Think I can get by with drums?

paul

[FirstOwner69]

I second what Chevy trucker said. You will definitely need a good trailer brake controller properly set up. The trailer brakes should handle the majority of the stopping for the trailer. Remember, people towed millions of miles using drum brakes. Be sure to take it easy on long grades since your biggest problem will be the potential of brake fade going downhill. Discs would obviously be better.

[jkeady]

For all-out stopping power, there isn't a tremendous amount of difference between well-functioning 3/4 ton drums and discs. The thing discs have going for them is heat dissipation and resistance to fade; drums require a little more thought when towing so that you don't over-work them.

Good 3/4 ton drums will easily stop a 5000 lb trailer, especially with trailer brakes.

[truckster]

It depends on where you're going to tow. I live in mountain country, and even with trailer brakes, it would get scary after a while when I was towing with my 1970 C20. I wouldn't worry nearly as much if you're staying in mostly flat country.

[quick60]

I just got my C20 on the road and the more I drive it the better the brakes are setting in and stopping. Actually got caught with a quick yellow red today and thought for sure I would stop in the middle fo the intersection. Surprisingly the truck stopped very quickly and smoothly.

Remember to back up periodically and use the brakes to stop so the self adjusters have a chance to do their job and keep the bakes properly adjusted.

Havent towed a trailer yet but dont thnk it would be to bad if it had brakes.

[paulbrgr9999]

Ill be towing on mostly flat terrain. Anaheim to calico ghost town area for those that know southern cal. We ride our quads and dirt bike out there. Got to do the Cajon pass each way though. Going down that grade will be interesting.

[In The Ten Ring]

How's your tranny? Can you use that to keep your speed down when going downhill?

[Old Truck Man]

I pull & tow big loads commonly 6000 pounds all the time with drum brakes. and it does get iffy with a 1/2 ton on a rare occasion. However a 3/4 ton has all the brakes I ever wanted. and the Brakes on my trailers don't work (not recommended). The old asbestos linings worked better than the organic linings we have today. I suppose its because I grew up with drum brakes. I drove semi truck for over 40 years and they all had drum brakes. And I hauled heavy equiptment big loads grossing as much a 180,000 pounds. Just yesterday (see pictures) I flat towed a 83 half ton home from Missouri with my 66 GMC half ton. steep hills sharp curves on beat out patched highways and never had any problems. I suppose my experience makes me successful? Going slow driving in a manner where I can quickly stop in a hurry is what I do. Its similar to the 4wheel drive syndrome. some folks get out on the snow in a 4 wheel drive and get over confident and go too fast. never realizing the 4 wheel drive wont stop any better than a two wheel drive. The only real advantage disk brakes will give you over drums is less brake fade & easier to change brake linings. Its importiant to keep the brakes in good condition. On many dual reservor master cyl trucks ive found only the front brakes where working properly.

[paulbrgr9999]

As suggested I can also drop the trany down a gear or two also right? I dont mind going slow. Not a problem for me.

Whats really scary is that just about everbody else in california drives like their being chased by something. Tailgating, darting from lane to lane, and going way to fast.

[paulbrgr9999]

One post in this thread mentions backing to adjust the brakes. Now how does that work? Is backing out of the garage or a parking space enough?

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by paulbrgr9999

One post in this thread mentions backing to adjust the brakes. Now how does that work? Is backing out of the garage or a parking space enough?

You have self adjusting brakes. At least the truck left the factory that way. The adjustment occurs when you stop when moving in reverse. I believe the instructions are in the owner's manual if you have one. Normally, regular driving activity accomplishes this.

Edit: Added this picture which shows the adjustor mechanism on my 69 right front brake. Adjustor has the number 5046 R stamped on it.

[quick60]

Drum brakes with self adjusters like pictured above work by rolling that adjuster wheel and spreading the brakes slighly to make up for wear each time you back up and apply the brakes, at least it is supposed to. But if you are one that always pulls through a parking spot, park on the street, circle driveway, and or have a manual trans and roll back put in 1st then take off without applying the brakes then they could theoretically get out of adjustment.

[paulbrgr9999]

Thanks to all that responded. Im going to wear out the current brakes and then have disc brakes put on. I had the current drum brakes looked at by a shop and they told me they were in good condition and had plenty of meat on the shoes. I back up quite a lot so I would think they are adjusting correctly.

I can stop quickly if needed but I am amazed at how hard I have to push on the brake pedal to do that. Im spoiled by moderen vehicles that dont require much pressure on the brake pedal to stop.

[quick60]

May want to check your vacuum booster and hose going to it. I have manual drums and am very pelased with how well it stops. I have a Dana 60 rear so the shoes are a little bigger than a chevy 12 bolt I think so that may be why.

[Codez67Chevy]

As I live in Utah, we have some pretty steep canyons and I also am a young buck, I've learned and was also taught to down shift and use the tranny to slow you down. I've seen plenty of people who ride their brakes and glaze them up. Your tranny is your best friend in towing to slow you down. Use brakes as needed.

[paulbrgr9999]

Originally Posted by quick60

May want to check your vacuum booster and hose going to it. I have manual drums and am very pelased with how well it stops. I have a Dana 60 rear so the shoes are a little bigger than a chevy 12 bolt I think so that may be why.

Dum question but how do I check the vacuum booster? Does that plug into the big drum thing in the engine compartment that is connected to the brake pedal? Near the brake fluid reservoir? I have been told the truck has power brakes which mystifies me when I imagine how bad the brakes would be if they were not power assist.

[quick60]

Honestly I dont know how to check your brake booster. I just know if it is not working then your brakes will not be up to snuff. Maybe a more knowledgeable memeber will reply with a way to check it or you can do a search on the forum.

Click on the link below. The brake booster is the big gold cannister the master cylinder is bolted to.

http://www.monstermarketplace.com/dr...-chevy-and-gmc

[JointTech]

heres a test I got from the forum
Test Power Brake Booster

If the pedal feels "hard" while the engine is running, the booster isn't operating correctly. If you suspect the booster is defective, do not attempt to disassemble or repair the power booster. Doing so is unsafe and will void your warranty.

Test 1

With the engine off, pump the brake pedal to remove any residual vacuum in the booster.
Hold pressure on the pedal while you start the engine. When the engine starts, the pedal should drop about a 1/4", this indicates that the booster is working properly.
Test 2

Run the engine a couple of minutes.
Turn the engine off and press the pedal several times slowly. The first pump should be fairly low. The second and third should become slightly firmer. This indicates an airtight booster.
Test 3

Start the engine and press the brake pedal, then stop the engine with the pedal still pressed. If the pedal does not drop after holding the pressure on the pedal for 30 seconds, the booster is airtight.
Inspect the Check Valve

Disconnect the vacuum hose where it connects to the intake manifold. Do not disconnect the vacuum line from the booster. Air should not flow when pressure is applied, but should flow when suction is applied. If air flows in both directions or there is no air flow, the valve needs to be replaced.
Verify Enough Vacuum

Check the operating vacuum pressure when the engine is at normal operating temperature. There should be a minimum of 18 in. of vacuum. Vacuum may be increased by properly tuning the engine, checking for vacuum leaks and blockages in vacuum lines.

[paulbrgr9999]

Thanks for the info. Ill try all those tests.

Yes, the brake pedal always seems very hard. Not squishy at all.