5.3l 383 vs 6.2l

[Malice]

So I've been reading every article out in regards to the 5.3l. To get some serious power out of it exctra displacement seems to be the best way to do it. My question is a 5.3 bored and stroked to 383 vs a 6.2l which is about 378 ci. Why wouldn't someone just save the time and money and effort and buy the 6.2l? With only about 5ci difference why wouldn't anyone go through the effort of the 5.3l. I know you can get the 5.3 block a lot cheaper but after the modifications wouldn't the price be more for the 5.3?

Is there much weight difference in the 6.2? Wouldn't the stroke be the same after you changed the 5.3 to. 4" stroke?

[solidaxel]

Isn't the 6.2 aluminum and 5.3 cast iron?

[torchlight]

Yes, the 6.2 is aluminum. You can get the 5.3 in aluminum or iron.

[akdg87]

Used 6.2's go for some serious coin though and a lot of them have the AFM and VVT which you should delete for an LSX swap(new lifters, cam, etc.). Also the 6.2's standalone harness and E38 PCM's go for quite a bit more than the standard 0411 PCM and harness that the 5.3 would use.

There is about a 80 lb difference between the iron and aluminum blocks.

I would just slap a turbo on the 5.3 and call it a day, but that's just me

[47 Fasttoys]

I don't think you really save any money using the 6.2, first the 6.2 uses VVT, if don't want to use it in a retrofit you have to swap the cam,timing cover and upper timing cover to eliminate that function. Also the most of the 6.2 have DOD (displacement on demand). These functions are great in a vehicle which is matched to the computer but when you start changing all the inputs which they use to function correctly you get into a whole new can of worms for programming. All 6.2 use generation IV ECM , no adaptable cruise function, higher programming costs. The 4.8 (my choice), 5.3, 6.0 swaps have been done by thousands, the bugs have been worked out. One more thing, if you are looking for serious power, say 800 plus the, the 4.8 and 5.3 with a turbo or two seems to be the way to go. Lower compression to start with. If your just looking for street power (look at me...I can smoke the tires) any of the Gen 3 or 4 motors are good for 400HP with off the shelf parts.
Just some things to think about.
Rob

[47 Fasttoys]

OK, so it took me a while to type my response and didn't the above post. What he said.
Rob

[mr48chev]

I'd have to think that the availability and much lower initial cost of the 5.3 plus the availability of aftermarket parts and pieces at somewhat competitive pricing makes it the choice for many even when they consider the cost of an engine kit and machine work. Aftermarket speed parts were out for the engine before the vehicles with the engine hit the dealers showrooms and have seemed to develop a lot faster than the aftermarket for most engine types.

[Malice]

Well essentially I am looking for the 600 range. I've the extra torque of the extra displacement from the 383 is just kind of appealing but maybe the better question would have been between the 5.3l 383 vs the 6.0l. The the blocks the same between the two?

[Lextech]

Buy a $500.00 5.3 and hang a couple of turbos on it.

Jeff

[akdg87]

Externally the blocks are the same, but you can't punch a 5.3 to a 6.0, even punching a 5.3 to a 5.7 leaves pretty thin cylinder walls. There's a couple builds by various magazines that you can find regarding 5.3 builds, they include a parts breakdown and cost as well.

[solidaxel]

If you start with a 5.3 and a GOOD tuner you will have trouble keeping tires on your truck!

[Malice]

I agree. With a 5.3 you can get a lot of power. It all just depends on the trans, the tire size and the rear end gearing. That's the hard part though. I don't know anyone locally thathas a 5.3 4l60e trans with 26.5" tall tire and a 3.73 rear end. So how the heck do you figure out the baseline of what's what?i personally want a 6l80e but far chance of finding anyone locally with that. And it's not like you can just swap rear ends out till you find the one you like.