Oil leak

[Bigbob]

Hi guys,

Leak 1
I know this question has been asked before but I'm not finding anything specific to my situation. I have a leak on the passenger side which looks like it's coming from above the transfer case in my 72 4x4 C-10 with a crate 350. So yesterday I change valve covers with new gaskets. While I was doing this I plug the oil pressure unit and remove the line because I thought the leak was coming from there. I have also checked to make sure the passenger side dipstick hole was plugged and it is. What am I missing?

Leak 2
As I mentioned I changed my intake manifold gasket because I had a leak in the circled area, then i notice today that I still have a leak there, where else could that be coming from?

[71K20chevy]

Give up on leak 2, I have yet to see a small block NOT leak profusely there. Mine has a buuuunch of silicone in that area and it still leaks.

[Bigbob]

Haha your not the first person to tell me that. Call me crazy but I just want this truck to not leak anything, ever. Some people call that OCD.

[71K20chevy]

Impossible. You didn't mention anything about a rear main leaking so I guess you're lucky there.

[Bigbob]

Well, the guy I got the truck from claimed the motor had little over a 1000 miles on it. I'm assuming the rear main is new. I'm trying to go every possible route besides that until I absolutely have to.

[Norcal72]

Leak 2 looks to be from intake manifold end seal. Leak 1 could also be intake seal on rear of manifold. Get a mirror on a stick and try to find where it's coming from. Start on the bottom and work your way to the top.

I know there is many opinions on this, but this is why I use the rubber end seals instead of just silicone. Always good to dry fit manifold with some old gaskets and check end seal gap on a new combo. Good luck.

[Bigbob]

I will do that norcal72, thanks for the advice

[geezer#99]

If you install your intake with a little bit more patience it'll never leak.
Lay a bead of silicone (I use black form-a-gasket) along the rail then wait 15 minutes until the bead won't wick up (stick) to the tip of your finger, then set the intake down straight and square. Once the bead is set up it won't squish out or move when you put the intake on it.
I see in your pic where it's squeezed out which shows a lack of giving the bead time to skin over.

[Bigbob]

Thanks geezer#99, sounds like I'm gunna have to pull the intake off and try again.

[motorcritter]

Geezer is right. I also found that not using half the tube on an assembly works pretty good- no unsightly runs on the outside, and no worries about what invisible runs on the inside are doing. I get the spray can of black- you can control how much squirts out. I only use black or grey- the grey sealed up Honda auto transmissions perfectly, and I've used it on motorcycle cases, foreign and domestic and not had leaks. Letting it set up is the key to a good seal.