Leaky axle

[462loadtoad]

Looks like it’s time to dig into an axle repair, any tips or pointers? I think this is a corporate axle but not sure.

1971 K5 Blazer.

[462loadtoad]

[kwmech]

Dana 44. You'll need wheel bearing seals? and inner oil seals at the minimum. You'll have to pull the axle shafts out and the carrier. Who knows, maybe u-joints and ball joints also.

[462loadtoad]

so its a Dana 44? Learned something. thanks

[argonaut]

May as well freshen the whole thing up with new seals, gaskets, u-joints, etc. when you have it apart. Inspect the wheel hub bearings and if they have fretting or score marks then swap those too.

[Bigdav160]

It's a bigger job than you might think.

I went ahead and did my ball joints, axle u-joints, all the seals and decided to put a front locker in while it was all apart.

[462loadtoad]

Does this look about right, am I missing anything?


1971 CHEVROLET BLAZER 5.7L 350cid V8
MOOG/PRECISION 365 Universal Joint
RAYBESTOS 5051156 (505-1156) Ball Joint
RAYBESTOS 5001070 (500-1070) Ball Joint
TIMKEN SET37 Wheel Bearing
TIMKEN SET45 Wheel Bearing
TIMKEN 442380 Wheel Seal
TIMKEN 5131 Axle Shaft Seal

[kwmech]

Originally Posted by 462loadtoad

Does this look about right, am I missing anything?


1971 CHEVROLET BLAZER 5.7L 350cid V8
MOOG/PRECISION 365 Universal Joint
RAYBESTOS 5051156 (505-1156) Ball Joint
RAYBESTOS 5001070 (500-1070) Ball Joint
TIMKEN SET37 Wheel Bearing
TIMKEN SET45 Wheel Bearing
TIMKEN 442380 Wheel Seal
TIMKEN 5131 Axle Shaft Seal

You'll find out after you get it apart, don't forget some 75/90 wt and either a gasket or a tube of silicone for the diff cover. Maybe a can or 2 of some brake cleaner. Clean out the axle tubes when you pull it apart. I've seen a ton of crap in them and you don't want to shove that back into the new seal when you slide the axle shafts back in.

[DWilbur]

I rebuilt mine about 1 year ago on my 71. The problem I had was with the castle nut that is used to adjust the lower ball joint. I did not have the correct socket to adjust it. now I think it would have been better not to have replaced them and left the originals castle nuts in place. I took several time to get the ball joints correct.

[Bigdav160]

DWilbur is describing this special socket used to torque the upper ball joint seat.

[462loadtoad]

do you have any pictures of what this tool adjusts, because I am not seeing it on my truck.

thanks for the help all!

[argonaut]

If you unthread the castle nut from the upper ball joint you will see this beneath it. There is a threaded tapered sleeve that threads into the top of the axle C to set the upper ball joint and set a little preload.

[462loadtoad]

Thanks, I will check it out.

[462loadtoad]

I worked on this over the past couple days and found that I needed a new axle slinger on the driver’s side and this is what lead to the seal failure. Also the inner lock nut on the passenger side was missing it pin that locks in to the retaining ring so had to order a new lock nut. All in all I replaced both axle seals wheel and spindle seals and bearings u-joints and upper and lower ball joints. The tool rental for pressing out the ball joints was $200, ouch, but you get it back it just ties up your funds.

Waiting on the axle slinger and the lock nut to come in and I will be putting it all back together next week.

[462loadtoad]

In the process of getting the steering arm off, I broke my vice.

[462loadtoad]

Got my new axle slinger in . Here it the new one next to the bad.





I also ran into a little problem. When I took all the front end components off, I was able to get this off but failed to put it back on in the same order and now as you can see I don't have clearance to install. Please tell me there is a trick to getting this back on without taking the hubs off again!

[OLDCHEV4X4]

Originally Posted by 462loadtoad

I also ran into a little problem. When I took all the front end components off, I was able to get this off but failed to put it back on in the same order and now as you can see I don't have clearance to install. Please tell me there is a trick to getting this back on without taking the hubs off again!

You could loosen the center link at both ends. Install the TRE. Then screw the center link on to both TRE's at the same time. Reset tow in again.
I have done this before. If your TRE's have not been off in a while, it can be tuff.

[argonaut]

I agree with oldchev4x4.
Heat and lube are your friends.

[462loadtoad]

Truck in finally back together, I loosened the leaf spring U-bolts and jacked it up just enough to get the steering arm back in, now on to other items that need attention.