Getting Back On The Road with my '50 3100 PU

[William Stewart]

Guys,

More on my '50 five window 1/2 ton PU. I was the one with the stuck intake valves a while back. Pulled the 216 head, valve guide cleanup, then reinstalled it and am rebuilding the carb before start up.

Question on the "RP" Rochester. There is a "C" on the carb castings but it looks like a "B". There are some differences from the carb in the factory shop manual, the instruction sheet in the NAPA Echlin rebuild kit and what I've got in front of me.
The shop manual shows something in the bottom of the pump well that wasn't in my carb or in the kit- an aluminum ball (5/32 dia) pump check valve. No ball or hole for it to fit in?? The shop manual also showed a small pump screen and retainer that also was not in the carb or kit.

The only ball check valves in the carb are a 5/32 steel ball in the power valve and a 3/16 steel ball in the pump discharge well (next to the pump).

I'm putting the carb on tonight, but if there is somthing I should look out for, please let me know.

More later, Bill

[William Stewart]

Rochester carb questions answered in a youtube presentation from Mike's Carburators. Some Rochester B have an accelerator pump intake via a check valve into the pump chamber while later ones use a sideport.

Fired up to heat engine for valve lash adjustment and compression check.
All cylinders between 121 and 124 PSI.

Next comes serious ignition timing- the flywheel has a cast radial line which might be #1- TDC am still looking for the ball marking. Any thoughts about setting timing for present day gas?

Bill