Box frame??

[Roll'nSlo]

I'm working on a 1966 C10, I'm using the same frame. The plan is to drop a BBC in it putting out roughly 700HP and possibly a 300 shot on top of that. I'm curious if I should box the frame. I've had a couple of guys telling me I need to but they have never ran anything close to what I'm planning on. Any help is appreciated.

[slowtruck]

Are planning a cage also?

[Super73]

If you are putting a cage in it, I would say no.

[Roll'nSlo]

Wasn't planning on cage or boxing the frame. I'm wanting to keep it clean looking. Kind of original or stock some what. If I have to do any of it now is the best time. I have the truck tore down to the frame.

[Super73]

Personally I don't think boxing it will help all much. The shear strength you will be adding is in the same plane as the existing frame. The twist would be corner to corner (aposing frame rails), not along the same frame rail. With out a cage you will always have some of that.

Most people mistake frame twist for axle rotation. Put a big anti roll bar in the rear and that will be fixed.

[Oldtruckfanatic]

I agree with Super73. Boxing a frame at a c notch or a short section up front like you have to do for mustang II crossmembers in the older trucks is one thing but on trucks with riveted frames theyre designed to flex some. If you start boxing the rails it takes some planning and engineering to make sure you dont focus what flex you do have to a certain point on the chassis or you get cracks almost immediately. and hes right about the axle roll too. If you look closely at most cars or trucks that are yanking the left front wheel 4 feet in the air most of the articulation is in the rear suspension. They still twist some but its exaggerated by how much the rear suspension moves.

[Roll'nSlo]

Cool!! So boxing the frame won't help any, correct? And I don't really need a cage either. I don't mind some twist; I just don't want to tear anything up.

[Oldtruckfanatic]

The definitive answer to that question depends on what it is you expect of the truck when youre finished with it. 700hp on motor with a 300 shot is no joke but how you plan to use it makes a huge difference in how you set up the chassis. My opinion isnt anything but my opinion but for me I have seen lots of guys spend a bunch of time and money on a chassis and accomplish nothing more than what a properly set up stock chassis and some suspension tuning would do.

[Roll'nSlo]

Planning on cruising it and racing it too.

[Oldtruckfanatic]

If you mean drag racing then your goal should be to pick up an nhra rulebook and look at whats required for the times your vehicle will realistically run. You can do all the boxing in the world on friends' advice and it wont mean anything at all at tech inspection. Once you know what is required for safety you can make a decision on what else you want to do as far as chassis setup goes. I havent drag raced anything faster than 12's and that was years ago when 12 second street cars were considered fast. Now the ricers go faster than that so guys like super73 will be way better practical advice for you.

[Super73]

My truck makes an honest 500hp to the rear tire. What is that at the crank? Not sure because every drive train eats a different amount of power but I know it is definately less than 700hp at the crank.

With The current combo, I have only ran a semi clean pass with a 52n jet which made 100 additional hp atthe tire. That put my 3200lb truck in the 9's.

With 700hp at the crank and 300 more in the bottle, a properly set up 4000lb truck should be able to click of a 9 second pass. You will need a cage to satisfy the tracks rules.

[BR3W CITY]

Boxing frame is kinda of a thing of the past. Unless your doing a diesel swap, a pull truck, or adding hydraulics...then boxing the frame won't really be useful.

You can partially box things like the trailing arms for an improvement, but actually boxing the frame will just add weight and not any real stiffness (the way a cage or rollbar would, offering chassis improvement as well).

I'm with super and the others....just get a cage. It adds the strength, also adds stiffness, and gives you the ability to NOT get thrown off the track.

[Roll'nSlo]

Ok. So cage would be best. At the track closest to me, if you run a 10 and don't have a cage you get thrown off the track. If I bought a cage from Summit or Jeg's, how hard is it to install??

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Roll'nSlo

If I bought a cage from Summit or Jeg's, how hard is it to install??

i dont think youll find one thats fits the cab, at least not out-of-the-box. The discussion becomes, do you want a cage or a rollbar? And then, how many points (bars), how far do you want to go? A simple hoop is easy to install.

[tinydb84]

Not to be negative but if you are asking how hard is it to install I dont think you should do it. A cage can be what saves your life. You dont want to do it wrong

[Roll'nSlo]

My only prob with a cage is the bars leaving the cab going to the bed. If I could get by with just the cab I would be happy. I'm really not planning to go to the track every weekend. There's a lot of street drag racing not far from me. I appreciate all the input from everyone.

[Roll'nSlo]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Not to be negative but if you are asking how hard is it to install I dont think you should do it. A cage can be what saves your life. You dont want to do it wrong

Not taking it in a negative way. I understand your point. Just figured if I can erect steel buildings and they hold up everyday I can do this too.

[Super73]

Those rear down bars serve a function. If you were to find yourself in the most awkward position (feet above your head) the main hoop will likely fold over with out those bars.

There is a way around those bars, but I believe it requires something like a roadster cage. Good luck getting in and out. .

If you don't care about going to the track and you are just going to pay on the street, leave our the way it is.

[Roll'nSlo]

Those rear down bars serve a function. If you were to find yourself in the most awkward position (feet above your head) the main hoop will likely fold over with out those bars.

Exactly why I was wanting to stay away from the cages. But that being said, I'm not ruling it out. My main concern is weather proofing it. I'm not planning on driving it in the rain but it can be sunny one minute and flooding the next here.

If you don't care about going to the track and you are just going to pay on the street, leave our the way it is.

Guess I need to decide if I plan on going to the track any. Closest 1/4 mile trck is about 2hrs away. Closest 1/8 mile is about an hour.

[Super73]

I feel you pain. Closest 3 tracks to me are all right about 3 hours away. Doesn't matter which one I choose.

[Roll'nSlo]

Where do you usually take your truck? To the track or play on the streets?

We used to have one 30 minutes but I heard NHRA took it over. Then shortly later they shut it down. It was 1/8 mile, I prefer 1/4

[Super73]

I stopped racing on the streets years ago.

[Roll'nSlo]

I know it's not the safest or cheapest if caught. But it's a lot closer than the tracks.

[vin63]

I boxed the frame of my project, but that was mostly to repair the significant damage done by the previous owner (cut out crossmembers and cut out sections). The original ladder frames are really strong and designed well.

[PGSigns]

With the amount of available torque you will have from a true 700 hp big block your gonna need more than a cage. You are going to need a big chunk of change. Will need a very good trans and a convertor built for the engine and truck. Will need a lot more rear end, with some good axles and no c-clips. Going to need to be able to plant that power and get it to the ground. Not going to do that with a small tire on a truck. If you go through the treads in this section and look at the chassis work that has been done to the trucks with a good bit of power to get them down the track and the safety parts of it that are required it is a lot of work and no cheap date. I used to tell folks for every full second you want to go faster it doubles the cost of the last one. I spent a boat load to go 7.40 in a dragster.
Jimmy