Panhard Bar and Shock Relocation Questions

[Budget63]

I did a search, but didn't see any threads dedicated to the differences in aftermarket Panhard Bars and rear shock relocation kits. I have been browsing these forums for months now, and know that No Limit Engineering, POL, Speedway, and Summit Racing all offer Panhard Bars. Any other Manufacturers, that I should be aware of? I was pretty surprised that Summit didn't carry a rear shock relocation kit for the C10. Any reasons to not go with a certain brand?
The No Limit parts look to be the beefiest/most complete, but are considerably more expensive than the others. Anyone out there running both pieces? At this point I am planning on just doing a static drop 4.5" in the front (spring & spindle) and a 5" drop in the rear (spring). Are the shock relocator kits from Speedway and POL good quality? Anyone have any pics?

[63swag]

Porterbuilt stuff is the best I've used or seen, in my opinion. It is a little more price wise but well worth it. Have you considered a 3" spring and 2" blocks, that way you shouldn't need to relocate your shock since it will only be compressed 3" because it mounts to the trailing arm, and/or buy slightly shorter shocks. Also, with a 5" static drop in the rear you will want to look into a c notch to avoid the axle ever bottoming out.

[Budget63]

Originally Posted by 63swag

Porterbuilt stuff is the best I've used or seen, in my opinion. It is a little more price wise but well worth it. Have you considered a 3" spring and 2" blocks, that way you shouldn't need to relocate your shock since it will only be compressed 3" because it mounts to the trailing arm, and/or buy slightly shorter shocks. Also, with a 5" static drop in the rear you will want to look into a c notch to avoid the axle ever bottoming out.

I am not real hot on the idea of using blocks in addition to the springs, but what you say makes sense, about the shock mounts not needing to be relocated. I know the ride will suffer with lowering the truck, and I assume using shorter shocks will add to that. I was hoping that I wouldn't have to do a C-notch, because I swear I have read about people not having to use them when going this low. I was thinking it was a must for a 6" rear drop, but not a 5". I guess I will find out when I go to put them in.

[63swag]

I've found that every truck differs slightly and there is a good chance you will not need the notch. You have obviously done your homework on this and just wanted to make sure you had considered all possibilities. It is all trial and error until you find the components that best suit your needs, and the suppliers you mentioned earlier all have good products. I obviously went a diffrent route with the shock mounts but as far as the panhard bar goes I originally went with a CPP bar that was adjustable and mounted in the stock location, but I had a good bit of side to side movement as the axle cycled. I replaced it with one from Porterbuilt and the quality (and price) were leaps and bounds over the cpp unit. Hope this helps and good luck, I hope you find the stance and ride quality you are looking for.

[chevyrestoguy]

Your suspension plans are very similar to what I did to my '64.

In the front, I Z'd the chassis 2", installed Belltech drop spindles, and cut 1 full coil from a 1/2 ton front coil spring. My total drop is 7", and a have a ton of ground clearance between the lower control arms and the ground. This area is the trouble spot on static dropped front suspensions using the stock crossmember. You have to really be careful and mindful of the ground clearance whenever you drive. Guys will modify their stock crossmembers, go with an aftermarket like Porterbuilt, or "Z" the frame to gain clearance.

In the rear, I went with a 5" drop spring, a 2" block, an ECE Super Track bar kit, shock relocators, and a C-notch.

Porterbuilt makes the nicest parts, but you pay for the high quality. I plan on using Nathan's stuff on my next build. For my '64, I used Early Classic (ECE) and they make an excellent product for the money.

[66farmer]

I did that last winter look at my build thread #241

[Budget63]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

Your suspension plans are very similar to what I did to my '64.

In the front, I Z'd the chassis 2", installed Belltech drop spindles, and cut 1 full coil from a 1/2 ton front coil spring. My total drop is 7", and a have a ton of ground clearance between the lower control arms and the ground. This area is the trouble spot on static dropped front suspensions using the stock crossmember. You have to really be careful and mindful of the ground clearance whenever you drive. Guys will modify their stock crossmembers, go with an aftermarket like Porterbuilt, or "Z" the frame to gain clearance.

In the rear, I went with a 5" drop spring, a 2" block, an ECE Super Track bar kit, shock relocators, and a C-notch.

Porterbuilt makes the nicest parts, but you pay for the high quality. I plan on using Nathan's stuff on my next build. For my '64, I used Early Classic (ECE) and they make an excellent product for the money.

The only bolt on crossmembers I have found are designed for bags, with the exception of the Porter Built unit designed for coilovers, which I would guess would work with a lowering spring? Anyone used one in their static drop? I looked at ECE kit, and it looks nice, but is listed as a '65-'72 part. I'm guessing it won't work on a '63? I know I saw somewhere that panhard bars are different lengths for different years.

[davbowen]

I have an ECE front drop kit. 2 1/2" spindles 2" springs on my 63. I put 5" springs in back, didn't need c notch. then I added 2" blocks and definitely needed the c notch. the shocks work best at approx. 15 degrees. I used a relocate kit on the rear and it all works well. get an adjustable panhard bar. best to call ECE, thats what I did. great bunch of guys.

[LVPhotos]

I am not a block guy but the lower you go the more the axle gets pushed forward. The blocks would lift the axle and lower the arms to pull some of this angle out. I am a firm believer in the rear bags. Price is low enough for the adjustability and right now I run them on Schrader valves no compressor. Note the tire rub at front. Before and after Porterbuilt arms installed.

[LVPhotos]

PB arms 1/2" longer than stock.

[earl84]

The only thing I would add is to buy everything from one manufacturer, so that it all works together. Each has a slightly different way of everything fitting together.

[davbowen]

agree with 1 manufacture.
I did not know PB made longer trailing arms. I have a similar issue. i'll check em out.

[duallyjams]

I went with no limit on the rear of the 65, info is in the thread for it post 83,84.

[AcampoDave]

I've used Early Classic many times and have always been 100% satisfied.

[LVPhotos]

Though more than most will do, the '62 got Porterbuilt trailing arms and Panhard bar kit, relocated shocks to arms and forward of stock.

[zach_carver]

very helpful thread here. ive been wondering a lot of these same question on my 65. Ive also experienced the trailing arm issue. Not resolved yet either.

[Captainfab]

The '63 & '64 do have longer panhard bars than the '65-'72's.

Originally Posted by Budget63

The only bolt on crossmembers I have found are designed for bags, with the exception of the Porter Built unit designed for coilovers, which I would guess would work with a lowering spring? Anyone used one in their static drop? I looked at ECE kit, and it looks nice, but is listed as a '65-'72 part. I'm guessing it won't work on a '63? I know I saw somewhere that panhard bars are different lengths for different years.

[Budget63]

That's what I was thinking!

Does anyone have experience with the CPP kits? How is the ride? Do the supplied shocks seem to be quality? Summit has a CPP kit that is springs, shocks, adjustable track bar, and rear shock relocation kit, all for $448.97.
I was planning to piece together CPP springs, KYB shocks, and get the shock relocators and track bar separately.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...del/c10-pickup

[66farmer]

I built my own panhard bar and relocated it to give clearance for the exhaust.
I relocated the shocks buy using the stock lower mounts just turn them around back words and used the right on the left and left on the right. You will have to drill a new hole in them.

Lowering my truck as much as I did made the wheels not center in the fender.
I fixed that buy moving the trailing arm cross member forward. There is a extra hole in the lower frame rail about 1 5/8 which is about how much I needed to center the wheel. I used that hole as my guide and redrilled the rest.

[66farmer]

Before and after

In the above picture the round thing on the lower shock mount is a tie down ring I welded on.

[picklito]

Originally Posted by 66farmer

I relocated the shocks buy using the stock lower mounts just turn them around back words and used the right on the left and left on the right. You will have to drill a new hole in them.

That is one of the best home-made shock relocations I've seen. I was poking around under mine and kept thinking... why don't I just do "this" and it's exactly what you show here.

[forestb]

Is your top shock mount just a bolt through the frame or am I missing something?

Originally Posted by 66farmer

I built my own panhard bar and relocated it to give clearance for the exhaust.
I relocated the shocks buy using the stock lower mounts just turn them around back words and used the right on the left and left on the right. You will have to drill a new hole in them.

Lowering my truck as much as I did made the wheels not center in the fender.
I fixed that buy moving the trailing arm cross member forward. There is a extra hole in the lower frame rail about 1 5/8 which is about how much I needed to center the wheel. I used that hole as my guide and redrilled the rest.

[picklito]

I went ahead and did it on my 70, using KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. Very nice improvement to rear axle control. Not a good photo, but you get the idea. Cost was a couple bolts and some time pressing the lower shock plates flat.

[Undone]

Originally Posted by forestb

Is your top shock mount just a bolt through the frame or am I missing something?

I'd like to know also!

[66farmer]

The top bolt is the one that is used for the front upper shock mount. I got them from Napa.