Radiator replacement

[slotard]

My truck seems to be losing some coolant, and I saw a wet spot on the rear of the radiator so that appears to be the problem.

It's a 350, but there's some chance I'll swap in a 5.3 or 6.0 sometime down the road. I'm happy enough with brass or aluminum but don't want any plastic on it, I've had too many problems with radiators with plastic end caps.

Am I better off buying one from a junkyard or is there a reasonably priced aluminum option I should look at? Thanks for any advice.

[tucsonjwt]

If you search for "radiator" on this site you will find a lot of recommendations.
I prefer copper/brass radiators. I added an electric cooling fan in front of the radiator to help with A/C performance (turns on when A/C compressor goes on via relay.) Search the internet and you will find good copper/brass for $125 and up. I got a Ready Rad, but it did get a small leak after about one year - $35 repair at the local radiator shop - I would still stick with copper/brass. I had a factory aluminum radiator in my 63 SWC Corvette back in 1968 and I had trouble getting someone to fix a leak. I know times have changed, but I still think aluminum radiators are a specialty repair.

I have a 454 BB in my 83 C20 and the standard 3 row radiator keeps the engine very cool even in 115+ degree desert heat. Moving up $30 will probably get you a better quality copper radiator.

[scottybaccus]

I'm a big fan of Spectra Premium. Look on RockAuto.com. You can find good deals under $150. Copper-brass is nice, but the modern aluminum core/plastic tank is well proven, and cheap. I picked up one for an '87 454 with HD cooling option for under $140. It's a 2.75" core, two-row, with trans cooler, and has no trouble keeping my 6.0L LS cool.

[homemade87]

Stock radiator works fine with my ls2 swap . No need for anything special unless you just want something different . Just take the one you have to a local radiator shop if you have one close by and have them check it . Got mine fixed and rodded for about $40.00 . If condition not good enough just get a new one at that point .

[slotard]

I'll probably stop by a junkyard tomorrow to look for a new seat and maybe some other stuff. What years should I look for? My truck had AC from the factory and still has most parts, if it matters.

[tucsonjwt]

I would measure your mounting locations and check your input/output holes as well as transmission or possible oil cooler lines. A lot can be capped off if you don't need it but it would be nice to get one that is a good fit.

Expect a junkyard radiator to need work at the radiator repair shop - that would be my second stop.

While you are there, look for a cooling fan your your A/C condensor out of a late model truck and wire it to a relay under the hood connected to the compressor. If possible, look for a cross flow condensor from a late model that will fit - you will need help from the A/C guys posting here on that.

[slotard]

The compressor is gone, as far as I can tell everything else is still there.

I was thinking of picking up a Taurus fan to replace the flex fan that's on there now.

[homemade87]

Taurus fan is a good choice . I fabed a flat shroud against the radiator and cut a hole in it to mount it to . Worked out great . Keeps my ls2 cool .

[slotard]

Is that the taurus fan I'm supposed to find? I was at the junkyard today and grabbed one that's single fan... oops. It has a 3 wire plug.

[Oregoon]

I was suspect of the plastic too, but it's surprisingly durable.

Hey, the stuff takes a bajillion years to rot in the landfill. Add heat and pressure and that might be lessened. That said, a lot of manufacturers make plastic motor componets, and have for a long time now. For my application--a 250 in a stock '74 GMC--I see no reason why I shouldn't run one.

[slotard]

I've personally replaced 3 radiators with plastic end caps, out of a total of 4 that I've replaced (plus this one). They were all 15-20 years old, so not new, but I'd rather not have any plastic.

[slotard]

Any thoughts on Ron Davis? http://www.ebay.com/itm/NASCAR-Ron-D...d18d02&vxp=mtr I found that, which is very close to factory size. I'm sure I can make it work, but don't know if it's any good.

[slotard]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GRIFFIN-ALUM...7114d3&vxp=mtr or maybe that would be a better choice...

[Oregoon]

I'd prefer something time-tested too. Brass looks better, and it's been around as long as water-cooled vehicles. But radiators are ancillary components, so I tend to go with what's on the shelf, so long as it's not cheap junk. I replaced my stock radiator with a 4-row plastic/aluminum unit, and I paid $150 for it.

To be honest, I place more store in a temp-gauge. The best radiator is only as good as whatever can puncture it.

[slotard]

I have a temp gauge already. Also have an oil pressure gauge and voltmeter that I need to hook up, they're mounted just under the radio but I need to investigate wiring etc on them (they were there when I bought it). It doesn't leak all that much right now, I think around a quart per 100 miles, which takes me a while to cover.

I have nothing against brass radiators, I just don't like any plastic on radiators.

[homemade87]

Originally Posted by slotard

Is that the taurus fan I'm supposed to find? I was at the junkyard today and grabbed one that's single fan... oops. It has a 3 wire plug.

Yes , This is the Taurus dual fan . I got mine new from amazon. Seemed like it was a little over $100.00 new . I figured one from the junk yard would be $50.00 so I opted for the new one .

[homemade87]

Originally Posted by homemade87

Yes , This is the Taurus dual fan . I got mine new from amazon. Seemed like it was a little over $100.00 new . I figured one from the junk yard would be $50.00 so I opted for the new one .

Correction , This is not the Taurus fan in the picture. The fan in the picture is from a Ford contour or Mystique . The one I have is a dorman 620-104 . I did not remember correctly . Sorry for the confusion .

Unfortunately I cant edit the last post .

[tucsonjwt]

A friend of mine has a Champion aluminum radiator that looks very nice. He tried to pull the overflow hose off the nipple on the filler neck and it was stuck on there. When it finally came off the nipple broke off at the neck - it was just staked in place, not welded. Makes me question the quality of those Champions, but I guess everything is made cheap today.

[slotard]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALL-ALUMINUM...f09de9&vxp=mtr

Any reason I shouldn't buy that? I can't really find the brand anywhere other than ebay, so I'm not sure how much I'd trust the lifetime warranty, but it looks like it should work to me.

[scottybaccus]

I have seen several instances, first hand, where these cheap aluminum radiators have a chemical reaction to the coolant. I have a couple of ideas as to what is happening, but have just decided to steer clear, after replacing two.
You can getnan OE replacement quality radiator for the same money at RockAuto, and many local stores.

[slotard]

The only cheap radiators I see on RockAuto use plastic end tanks, the brass ones (OE style) are $217 and $226. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=2172 maybe I'm looking in the wrong place.

[scottybaccus]

Most every vehicle made for 20 years has used plastic end tanks. They are reliable, inexpensive to replace, and cool very well.
In my 6.0/4L80e swap, I used the Spectra Premium for an '87 454 with the HD cooling option. It has two very large rows, 2.75" thick, and the usual internal trans cooler. With dual electric fans, it runs a steady 200* and has never fired the second fan.
Moreover, Spectra Premium is an OE supplier, so I'm getting an American (Canada) made product that I can be sure won't have weird chemical or electrolysis issues. $138? I'll happily buy another in ten or 15 years. That's how long they seem to last.

[scottybaccus]

By the way, $250 for a brass/copper radiator is cheap. A new Walker for the early Ford hotrods I build runs $500-$700.

[Justin@EntropyRad]

I've got multiple grades for the truck, including with the right LS-swap hose locations and steam port bung!

[mattcrp1]

I installed a Griffin LS swap in my 76, made in the USA and decent price.