Converting from power brakes to Wilwood manual master cylinder

[fastpace]

I'm working on converting my 72 from the factor power brake booster and MC to a manual Wilwood tandem master cylinder. Since the truck is running I'm wanting to make sure I have all the parts that are needed before I start tearing it apart.

What is required to adapt the Wilwood MC to the factory pedal (rod end, threaded sleeve, etc)?
Will it bolt to the bottom 2 factory holes and have everything line up?
Do I need to cut any of the holes bigger?

I did a lot of searching and this was the best picture I found of an install showing the MC being mounted to the bottom 2 holes but the owner listed the truck as originally being a manual brake truck.

[dkauffman05]

Interested in more info on this . I was getting ready to do this or just buy a mud 70's vette mc

[Sean1985]

I have my wilwood master. I didn't install it yet but I have done some mock up. I am going from power to manual. The bolt holes are the same and the hole in the firewall is larger so it should be a good fit. I used a 15/16 master and it comes with the rod for the pedal. This is what wilwood recommended with my setup. 14" rotors in front and 13" in the rear.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by dkauffman05

Interested in more info on this . I was getting ready to do this or just buy a mud 70's vette mc

I am in the middle of my power to manual conversion and went with a 72 corvette master. Since the truck had power I have to get a manual push rod from our local C10 parts guy. So far the hardest part has been bending the line from the master to the Wilwood adj prop valve.

[dkauffman05]

Do to u have a part# for the correct pushrod ?

[derotoreut]

Interested in this as well. I'm planning to do the same with my Wilwood master and 14" brakes (front and rear). Subscribed.

[Sean1985]

Here is a picture of what I did today. I removed the old booster and the new master bolted right up to the old mounting holes. Firewall hole was good too. The pushrod that came with the master is too short so I need to extend it. Pretty easy.

[Sean1985]

Here's another

[derotoreut]

I'm assuming you're going with front and rear disc brakes? Did you go with an adjustable Wilwood proportioning valve?

[Sean1985]

Originally Posted by derotoreut

I'm assuming you're going with front and rear disc brakes? Did you go with an adjustable Wilwood proportioning valve?

Yes front and rear disk. 14" 6 piston front and 13" rear. I also have a wilwood adjustable prop. Valve.

[rex01atv]

Was curious if previous members from earlier post completed their wilwood mc kit from power to manual? I'm getting ready to do the same thing on my 72 converting from power to manual. I currently have 13'' front cpp rotors with 12'' rear cpp rotors. Do you guys know what bore of mc to use on my application??? Any feedback from install would be great!

[Sean1985]

Originally Posted by rex01atv

Was curious if previous members from earlier post completed their wilwood mc kit from power to manual? I'm getting ready to do the same thing on my 72 converting from power to manual. I currently have 13'' front cpp rotors with 12'' rear cpp rotors. Do you guys know what bore of mc to use on my application??? Any feedback from install would be great!

If your going to use wilwood just call they're tech support line and they will tell you whats best for your application. And give you a part #. That's what I did.

[rex01atv]

Okay thank you! Have already installed mc? Any tips?

[Sean1985]

Originally Posted by rex01atv

Okay thank you! Have already installed mc? Any tips?

It's pretty straight forward. If your going to get a pro portioning valve get the kit. It has a bracket that bolts up to the holes in the firewall and it comes with the lines pre bent from the mc to the prop valve

[derotoreut]

Originally Posted by Sean1985

I have my wilwood master. I didn't install it yet but I have done some mock up. I am going from power to manual. The bolt holes are the same and the hole in the firewall is larger so it should be a good fit. I used a 15/16 master and it comes with the rod for the pedal. This is what wilwood recommended with my setup. 14" rotors in front and 13" in the rear.

For my 71 SWB, Wilwood recommended the same 15/16" bore MC for my manual brake application as well. On the front I'm going to run 14" DS rotors w/ 6-piston caliper. On the rears I'm going to run 14" DS rotors w/ 4-piston and internal parking brake. The MC kit that Wilwood recommended was the 261-13626-BK (black kit I wanted).

[rex01atv]

After installing mc with combination valve, do you have to replace hard lines from front and back of truck and bend and glare them to fit the mc? Or does oem lines go into mc/combination valve?

[Sean1985]

Originally Posted by rex01atv

After installing mc with combination valve, do you have to replace hard lines from front and back of truck and bend and glare them to fit the mc? Or does oem lines go into mc/combination valve?

You might be able to make the stock lines work but astedically it won't look that good. The prop valve has a spot for both front lines and one for the rear. I'm redoing all the lines cause mine were kinda shotty looking. As far as the fitting size I'm not sure cause I cut mine off. But still 3/16 tubing I believe.

[HeavyD]

Curious how these work, as in how much effort is required to activate brakes? They are supposed to replace power serup but not have much effort as stock manual, correct? The stockers in non-power were not much fun for me.

[dkauffman05]

I've been looking at this master what you guy as think ?
http://www.carolinaclassictrucks.com/MC1312A.html

[Sean1985]

Originally Posted by HeavyD

Curious how these work, as in how much effort is required to activate brakes? They are supposed to replace power serup but not have much effort as stock manual, correct? The stockers in non-power were not much fun for me.

I'm not quite sure how they're going to work yet. I haven't got mine buttoned up yet. But I've heard that it's not much of a difference then power with the big brake setup. I didn't want the bulky booster under the hood.

[SierraMtns]

Originally Posted by dkauffman05

I've been looking at this master what you guy as think ?
http://www.carolinaclassictrucks.com/MC1312A.html

Looks like a good one.

[SonomaComa]

Originally Posted by Sean1985

Here is a picture of what I did today. I removed the old booster and the new master bolted right up to the old mounting holes. Firewall hole was good too. The pushrod that came with the master is too short so I need to extend it. Pretty easy.

I bought a 1970 GMC C-20 and the previous owner said he used parts from a 1972 Chevy truck to convert it to disc brakes in the front. The Brake Pedal is very high, is that because of the pushrod is the wrong length? The Master Cyl. is new too and not sure if he used a 1970 Master that has a 1.125" Bore or 1972 that has a 1.250" Bore. Would the pushrod be the same for both Master Cylinders?

[Sean1985]

Originally Posted by SonomaComa

I bought a 1970 GMC C-20 and the previous owner said he used parts from a 1972 Chevy truck to convert it to disc brakes in the front. The Brake Pedal is very high, is that because of the pushrod is the wrong length? The Master Cyl. is new too and not sure if he used a 1970 Master that has a 1.125" Bore or 1972 that has a 1.250" Bore. Would the pushrod be the same for both Master Cylinders?

Not sure about the correct pushrods length. As far as the pedal being too high there should be a stop to prevent it from coming too get towards you. If it's really far out they could have used a long push rod.

[SonomaComa]

This helps to explain some of the different size bores in the Master Cylinders.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxT9vLO6pOc