Is a dropmember worth it for a 5/8 static drop.?

[kitsbeach]

Looking at the nolimit and porterbuilt wideride/dropmembers.

I'm running the original 6cyl three-on-the-tree right now and down the road will go for an LS/tremec swap.

I want the truck to handle.

I don't want to do a lot of fabbing and messing around right now because I like keeping the truck on the road and running.

NOLIMIT

From what I've heard the nolimit wide ride will give me 3" more ground clearance and raises the motor 1".

I'm wondering if the Z-bar clutch linkage will still work or what mods will be necessary.?

Also wondering if 6cyl mounts can stay where they are so I don't have to shorten another driveshaft and mess with bellhousing crossmember and clutch linkage.?

Does anyone have any direct experience with this.?

PORTERBUILT

I'd like to know if level 1 or level 2 porterbuilt dropmember would be equivalent to 5" front drop.?

I've been told that level 1 dropmember only gains 1" of ground clearance so it does not seem worth it..?

It also moves engine back 1" (or so I have been told) so again may have clutch linkage/bellhousing crossmember issues.

Couple pics of the engine mounts and linkage here.

Any answers of experience with this would be appreciated...

[kitsbeach]

I should say also I'm running 15" steelies.

[dirtyjim]

both of those will give you more ground clearance over stock, cant say on the clutch linkage though. both manufactures are board vendors.
I would pm both of them or start a thread in the suspension section and see what they say

[69chevy lwb]

Or go with a ride tech air setup. Mine is all ride tech and its a handling monster! With my 292 I couldn't out drive the suspension at all and I'm not running sway bars. Now it's a mild 5.3 ls with a tremec tko so I could out drive the suspension but it handles surprisingly well even at 130. I know you might be worried about and air suspension reliability but they are wonderful only problems that happen are when it's not installed properly. And if you only want a static drop install bags with Schrader valves on them then it stays at the hight you want with no maintenance or on board air system. And raising the cross member I don't recommend it puts the center of gravity higher and you risk hitting the oil pan before the cross member.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 69chevy lwb

Or go with a ride tech air setup. Mine is all ride tech and its a handling monster! With my 292 I couldn't out drive the suspension at all and I'm not running sway bars. Now it's a mild 5.3 ls with a tremec tko so I could out drive the suspension but it handles surprisingly well even at 130. I know you might be worried about and air suspension reliability but they are wonderful only problems that happen are when it's not installed properly. And if you only want a static drop install bags with Schrader valves on them then it stays at the hight you want with no maintenance or on board air system. And raising the cross member I don't recommend it puts the center of gravity higher and you risk hitting the oil pan before the cross member.

COG is not solely tied into the front crossmember.
You should verify that the oil pan doesn't hang below the crossmember w/any combination (factory or aftermarket). Sometimes certain pans hang below OE crossmembers too (LS truck engine pans being the latest popular culprit).

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Is a dropmember worth it for a 5/8 static drop.?

At 5" or more drop, the OE lower a-arm pivot points get very close to the ground. Aftermarket crossmembers can help w/this clearance issue. The WideRide or Dropmember crossmembers do offer improved ground clearance. Ride Tech's kit does not offer improved ground clearance.

All can be air adjustable or static (coil over) based.

The aftermarket units will most likely alter engine location which will change the clutch linkage set-up.

That being said, there are lots of guys running around w/3" spindle + 2" coil spring drops w/o constant issue despite the 5" drop amount. But, since all roads are different, there's always a possibility.

If you drive your truck alot/daily & want it low w/o worrying, raising the front suspension in relation to the rails (aftermarket crossmembers, sectioning an OE crossmember, or the frame 'Z' for the more serious fabricators) is a good way to minimize the a-arm to ground clearance issue.

[slowcpe]

Nolimitrob told me the other day that once you get past a 4/6 drop you get in the "danger zone" with the stock truck geometry. Plus theres a truck on here running RideTech's coilover setup where the crossmember looks awfully close to the ground.

While I'm going to be on air I about exhausted this subject and decided on a mild dropmember. Figured the ground clearance would be beneficial, better geometry, and everything comes in an entire kit rather than piece mealing the front end together. Of course that comes with a price.

Unsure about the clutch linkage as I'm running auto. That would be a good question for Nate. Dave Porter is a great source of info as I probably sent 50 emails asking questions and he still kept replying.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The aftermarket units will most likely alter engine location which will change the clutch linkage set-up.

If you drive your truck alot/daily & want it low w/o worrying, raising the front suspension in relation to the rails (aftermarket crossmembers, sectioning an OE crossmember, or the frame 'Z' for the more serious fabricators) is a good way to minimize the a-arm to ground clearance issue.

Thanks SCOTI yeah I want to drive the hell out of this one. I have another low rider, a 1950 Ford traditional custom which is a great cruiser but hits the ground A LOT.! I told myself that for this one I want it more usable but of course I still want it low.

Originally Posted by slowcpe

Nolimitrob told me the other day that once you get past a 4/6 drop you get in the "danger zone" with the stock truck geometry. Plus theres a truck on here running RideTech's coilover setup where the crossmember looks awfully close to the ground.

While I'm going to be on air I about exhausted this subject and decided on a mild dropmember. Figured the ground clearance would be beneficial, better geometry, and everything comes in an entire kit rather than piece mealing the front end together. Of course that comes with a price.

Unsure about the clutch linkage as I'm running auto. That would be a good question for Nate. Dave Porter is a great source of info as I probably sent 50 emails asking questions and he still kept replying.

SLOWCPE thank you yeah I've been noticing you doing your homework. And if I go for tubular a-arms and a new steering box the price of the whole wideride/dropmember is getting pretty close in price to buying all the separate parts.

Looks to me so far that the wideride fits my needs best because it offers 3" more clearance. I just don't know how much fabwork would be involved to make the 6cyl motor mounts. And I'm not a welder/fabricator type of guy so I'd have to draw it up good for someone.

[kitsbeach]

I notice nolimit sells these "trim to fit" motor mounts for small blocks (first pic). They might make it easier for me, although the 6cyl is in a further back position than the normal V8 position.

And my current mounts are the older style (see second pic) so I'm not sure if I could convert to the newer kind to fit the nolimit stands.?

[kitsbeach]

Here is a shot from the nolimit website of the nolimit engine stands going in. Maybe it wouldn't be too hard to make up a set of 6cyl mounts.?

[kitsbeach]

Here's a little shot of my other lowrider...

[kitsbeach]

MODS wondering if you can move this for me to the suspension section.?

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by 69chevy lwb

Or go with a ride tech air setup. Mine is all ride tech and its a handling monster! With my 292 I couldn't out drive the suspension at all and I'm not running sway bars. Now it's a mild 5.3 ls with a tremec tko so I could out drive the suspension but it handles surprisingly well even at 130. I know you might be worried about and air suspension reliability but they are wonderful only problems that happen are when it's not installed properly. And if you only want a static drop install bags with Schrader valves on them then it stays at the hight you want with no maintenance or on board air system. And raising the cross member I don't recommend it puts the center of gravity higher and you risk hitting the oil pan before the cross member.

Hey 69chevylwb I want to check out more of your truck but the pictures aren't showing up on your build thread. Maybe the server is busy this weekend (popular site.!!).

[69chevy lwb]

Yeah my build threads all broke down. You're welcome to look me up on Facebook. My name is Broc Easton from Evanston wy there's pictures of everything on there

[kitsbeach]

Anyone got any pics of the engine mount towers in an installed nolimit wideride.?

Also pictures showing the difference between the stock 6cyl and V8 tower mounting locations.?

[502ms]

I 2nd the air bags and LS/6-speed. Going on 15,000 miles and two years with no problems. 6.0 and Tremec T56. Lays frame, Z'd front, carry load (engine, front clip, etc. plus one passenger for 120 miles with no problem)

I am sure you will do fine on either one. PS - I was able to use my stock driveshaft with my swap

[kitsbeach]

ANOTHER PROBLEM

Seems like both the nolimit and the porterbuilt dropmembers recommend a 30" steering column.

But I have three-on-the-tree right now so I don't think I can keep that and run a dropmember.

Any members running a dropmember with three on the tree..??

[kitsbeach]

My intended plan was/is like this:

1. Keep 6cyl/tot for time being and drive it.
2. Lower it and make it handle (this is a priority)
3. Maybe do a T5 conversion so I have overdrive
4. Short bed conversion
5. Next year or year after do an LS/Tremec conversion

I'm dying to get this thing closer to the ground.

So either I forget about the dropmember and go with regular drop parts, or I do the T5 swap right away and then do a dropmember.

[SCOTI]

Regular drop parts (4/6 ~ 5/7) to get it on the road & the Tremec since you'll be out using it.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Regular drop parts (4/6 ~ 5/7) to get it on the road & the Tremec since you'll be out using it.

yeah ok the 6cyl and a magnum 6speed..!!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

yeah ok the 6cyl and a magnum 6speed..!!

I'll go on the record & say there's not much need for a 6spd in an old school GM truck. OD (a 5spd) will do what you need. Double OD (a 6spd) is kinda wasted money w/o a good aero pkg & a motor set-up for that cruise rpm.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I'll go on the record & say there's not much need for a 6spd in an old school GM truck. OD (a 5spd) will do what you need. Double OD (a 6spd) is kinda wasted money w/o a good aero pkg & a motor set-up for that cruise rpm.

Yeah and a T5 out of a S10 could be pretty cheap and easy bolt up. With a jeep input shaft I can even use the clutch I have now. So I'd only need my driveshaft length changed and away I go.

[SierraMtns]

Any updates? Which kit did you use?

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by SierraMtns

Any updates? Which kit did you use?

I went with regular drop parts, rather than a dropmember, because I am using the truck as a driver and didn't want to lose the three-on-the-tree just yet.

Up front I'm using porterbuilt control arms, cpp sway bar and cpp modular 2" drop spindles.

Out back its a nolimit shock relocate, panhard and sway bar.

I haven't had much time to work on the old truck but, after many hours of grinding and drilling and cold chiselling, I have all the rear suspension removed and I'm ready to cut the c-notches and put the rear together.

[70blackfish]

Done yet?

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by 70blackfish

Done yet?

haha thanks for checking in blackfish. That is a sweet truck up on the hoist.

No I'm not done. A hoist and a torch would have sped things up.

I didn't get started until summer and was away for a lot of it and busy. And all those rivets took me a long time to grind, drill and chisel.

I've got the truck arms cleaned up and installed, with flipped crossmember mounts. And I've got he driver's side C-notch in. I just cut the passenger side notch tonight. It should go faster. There are less rivets and my grinder skills have improved. I'v got to grind my frame cut to size and bolt the notch in.

After that it is on to the front suspension, which will probably take me until Christmas the way its going (couple hours a week maybe four).