5.3 Cam Thoughts?

[WiggyHD]

I've been in contact with the cam manufacturer about this cam:
* Good torque and very strong mid-range power. Good performance cam.
* Part Number: 54-412-11 [7]
* Intake Duration (.050): 212.00
* Exhaust Duration (.050): 218.00
* Intake Duration (seat-to-seat): 265.00
* Exhaust Duration (seat-to-seat): 271.00
* Intake Lift: 0.522
* Exhaust Lift: 0.529
He suggested having a tuner tune it, but said that it wasn't needed. He said it would be fine without the tuning. What do you folks think? I have no idea where a tuner would be anywhere near me. Maybe S&P? I haven't checked yet. Do these computers "Learn"? I don't even have the motor yet, I'm just making plans. I am getting the accessories, uncut harness, computer, 4L60, TAC, pedal, etc. out of an 05' Suburban. I'm not going to race it. My girls will be driving it to school, and they have to impress...

THANKS!
Mark

[blazercrazy70]

I just got bought a 5.3 motor from BD turnkey engines he put the gm Z06 cam in it. I do not know the grind on it but he said that if you go anything bigger than that you can start having problems with the computer. Even though it gets tuned it can be a headache. Just my two cents worth.

[Robznob11]

Well all cams will run better with a tune, even stockers. That cam is smaller than the z06 cam and will not be very noticeable. I have about the largest cam you can run on a stock converter . It has nice power and a great sound. And if your going to spend the money and time to do it I would say anything smaller is not worth it but yet it is not so obnoxious that you have stalls, low vacuum and other things associated with large cams. Also don't even think of doing it if you are not going to change the springs and pushrods. They are the weakest link

[WiggyHD]

Thanks for the help! I suppose I should learn one of the brand of tuning software...

Mark

[dayj1]

Originally Posted by WiggyHD

I've been in contact with the cam manufacturer about this cam:
* Good torque and very strong mid-range power. Good performance cam.
* Part Number: 54-412-11 [7]
* Intake Duration (.050): 212.00
* Exhaust Duration (.050): 218.00
* Intake Duration (seat-to-seat): 265.00
* Exhaust Duration (seat-to-seat): 271.00
* Intake Lift: 0.522
* Exhaust Lift: 0.529
He suggested having a tuner tune it, but said that it wasn't needed. He said it would be fine without the tuning. What do you folks think? I have no idea where a tuner would be anywhere near me. Maybe S&P? I haven't checked yet. Do these computers "Learn"? I don't even have the motor yet, I'm just making plans. I am getting the accessories, uncut harness, computer, 4L60, TAC, pedal, etc. out of an 05' Suburban. I'm not going to race it. My girls will be driving it to school, and they have to impress...

THANKS!
Mark

That sounds like a Comp Cams xr265hr cam. If so, I've used it in a 5.3. Stock idle and definite seat of the pants improvement. I eventually made 444/485 HP/TQ to the wheels but that's with 10 PSI boost

[65Gregg]

Originally Posted by blazercrazy70

I just got bought a 5.3 motor from BD turnkey engines he put the gm Z06 cam in it. I do not know the grind on it but he said that if you go anything bigger than that you can start having problems with the computer. Even though it gets tuned it can be a headache. Just my two cents worth.

How was you experience with BD? Was everything as advertised? His website is very informative but you always have to wonder.

[WiggyHD]

Originally Posted by dayj1

That sounds like a Comp Cams xr265hr cam. If so, I've used it in a 5.3. Stock idle and definite seat of the pants improvement. I eventually made 444/485 HP/TQ to the wheels but that's with 10 PSI boost

Yup, that's it! I'll have to live without boost. Married, 4 daughters, 2 in college starting in the fall...

Mark

[BR3W CITY]

You can go a chunk larger if you want to, I guess it depends on your goals for the setup. That cam will work fine, but is not going to produce as "obvious" of a result (or a feeling) that a more aggressive cam would. Certain factors like; what convertor, longtubes or manifolds, stock top end or not?, 4wd? will all have an effect on your ideal cam.

If your looking at a stock convertor setup, 4wd, a heavy suburban, then your best off aiming for a flat power band that comes in early. It'll be the easiest to drive, and the peppiest for a small motor in that heavy of a truck. If you want something that has a more "hot rod" feel to it, you can still cheat and run a low LSA on a less aggressive cam. It'll have that little chug/burble, but not act like a big-cammed/convertor truck around town.

[WiggyHD]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

You can go a chunk larger if you want to, I guess it depends on your goals for the setup. That cam will work fine, but is not going to produce as "obvious" of a result (or a feeling) that a more aggressive cam would. Certain factors like; what convertor, longtubes or manifolds, stock top end or not?, 4wd? will all have an effect on your ideal cam.

If your looking at a stock convertor setup, 4wd, a heavy suburban, then your best off aiming for a flat power band that comes in early. It'll be the easiest to drive, and the peppiest for a small motor in that heavy of a truck. If you want something that has a more "hot rod" feel to it, you can still cheat and run a low LSA on a less aggressive cam. It'll have that little chug/burble, but not act like a big-cammed/convertor truck around town.

I guess for now, it would be a stock convertor (I never have looked at prices...), 69' C-10 Shortbed, 3.73 rear gears (one legger), 28"-29" ish tires, manifolds until I can afford longtubes, 3/4-3/5 drop, and it will be primarily a "Fun" truck that my daughters will also drive to school if they can show the responsibility... I guess what I am saying is that I probably won't ever autocross it, but I would like it to feel like I could. But I also want it to be comfortable and dependable. Does that make sense? I want to do it while the motor is out to make it easier.

I'm a disabled vet, and with my pain meds I sometimes have trouble making a direct point.

I appreciate all of yours and this sites help!
Mark

[bpatrol]

that's a fine cam for a daily driver. It is a popular cam for a mild street truck on a stock converter. if a street cruiser is what you want and easy to drive it will work just fine and add hp
good luck and thanks for your service
bpatrol

[Marty68]

how much different does a cam act in a 4.8 vs. a 5.3?

[Super73]

I think you would be hard pressed to find an aftermarket cam that makes more average TQ <4k rpm than a stocker.

How much of your time is spent above 4k (5% maybe)? Merging on freeways, passing a vehicle etc.
But how much of your time is spent below 4k? Every stop sign, stop light, freeway driving, around town (95%)?

Even keeping intake valve closing point at the stock 34ish* at .050, adding duration will add overlap which will most likely reduce TQ <4k. Move the intake valve later than stock and you start reducing dynamic compression which will result in reduction of TQ <4k.

Unless you want to turn more RPM to make more hp (moving the tq up in the rpm band does this), you might want to rethink investing you money in to other places. Headers, reducing intake obstructions (porting a throttle body, different intake); things that will allow the motor to pump easier. Heck, a converter would be light years ahead.

Cam swap will cost you will be $750 and would likely see better gains putting that money somewhere else.

[WiggyHD]

I never thought of it like that... I know my girls shouldn't be running it over 4K!

Mark

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by WiggyHD

Does that make sense? I want to do it while the motor is out to make it easier.

I'm a disabled vet, and with my pain meds I sometimes have trouble making a direct point.

I appreciate all of yours and this sites help!
Mark

No worries man, I'm a cancer survivor, my pain meds make me tolerate the rest of humanity

As for the truck, I totally understand what your getting at in terms of driveability. For any budget-concious LS build, the Z06 or GM Hot Cams are always a REALLY popular choice for "mostly stock" setups. You can get them new for cheap, and used off Ls1tech for even cheaper. They also don't take quiet the same toll on the valvetrain.** They are reliable, mild feeling yet they do give fair improvements, and they will work on a stock convertor.

The more builds I work on, the more I grow to appreciate the finesse between having your 'verter, gears, and cam all on the same page. I have been in some big-cam stock convertor cars that just don't feel fun, and make all their power up high. I've also been in some simple-4.8 builds with a zippy little low overlap cam and a good lockup that run like champs.


**addendum to this post. I have been meaning to, and will, be doing a post that doesn't get addressed much on the LS section, regarding the lifespan of valvetrain components with modified cams and such. Long story short; most folks think its a 1-times purchase, and the truth is these components in a "performance engine" are actually wear-parts that can be expected to fail eventually.

[WiggyHD]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

No worries man, I'm a cancer survivor, my pain meds make me tolerate the rest of humanity
God Bless you, I couldn't even imagine...

As for the truck, I totally understand what your getting at in terms of driveability. For any budget-concious LS build, the Z06 or GM Hot Cams are always a REALLY popular choice for "mostly stock" setups.
I will look into those!

I've also been in some simple-4.8 builds with a zippy little low overlap cam and a good lockup that run like champs.
That's what I'm looking for! I am still looking into the air in air out updates too that I'm sure will help, I can just do one step at a time...

**addendum to this post. I have been meaning to, and will, be doing a post that doesn't get addressed much on the LS section, regarding the lifespan of valvetrain components with modified cams and such. Long story short; most folks think its a 1-times purchase, and the truth is these components in a "performance engine" are actually wear-parts that can be expected to fail eventually.
I'll be interested in reading that!

Mark

[H20cooled]

You might try contacting Cam Motion, they make custom cams and their prices and reputation are very good. I've got one in my 4.8l I have not started the engine yet so I cannot really comment on performance.

Rich

[BR3W CITY]

Thanks Mark. I will mention that with almost ANY cam, having the truck tuned is a good idea. You'll need VATS and emissions shut off anyway, so doing some fuel and spark tables shouldn't be a problem for any real tuner. Most of the changes will be small with these cams, but there are driveability benefits and trans settings that are much improved when you can have it tuned in person.

[Robznob11]

Here is a sound clip of mine, it's a scoggin dicky cam, they are ground by cammotion. The are great people to work with. (cammotion) one other thing to note is that the lobes on the cammotion cam's are softer meaning they don't snap open and closed as aggressively as the comps, hence a little less hard on valvetrain . http://youtu.be/XGpzf7mNJxs

[Marty68]

that sounds nice.

[WiggyHD]

Yeah it does! Wow! Was that with straight pipe, flowmasters, etc.? I'll give them a call too!

Thanks for all of the input my friends!
Mark

[Robznob11]

Long tubes, 3" with x pipe, dual summit turbo muffler s dumped before axle

[Root2812]

So I read through this thread since I am possibly in need of a new cam, I am now leaning toward the stock one but I am pretty confused now and not even sure if my parts will work together. Without thread jacking can you guys set me straight here?

I have a 2000 LM7 5.3. My trans is a 4l60e from a 4.8L truck and it came with the converter I was going to use. My heads are getting rebuilt with stock springs. My cam has a light scratch on it so I am researching a new one but plan to have it looked at by a pro to see if I can keep it. So after reading this thread and seeing you guys talk about cams, valve trains, and converters working together I am concerned that my converter won't play nice with my 5.3 engine. Also I have the stock springs in the heads and I am not sure if I need to get new lifters or pushrods. If I get a new cam I'll get new lifters and pushrods but if I can save this cam then I'd like to reuse the stock lifters and push rods. If I have stock springs am I stuck with the stock cam? Also what should i do about my rockers? The stock ones looked good so I wanted to keep those.

My engine is being rebuilt but I am just building something to drive and have fun with. I am not going for a powerful street machine. Any upgrade in power would be just fine but I was going to use the 5.3 as is until it turned up no good. The bottom end rebuild is killing my budget so I don't want to drop another grand on the top if i don't have to.

[Robznob11]

You don't need to change lifters, I would upgrade pushrods since you can get them for 100$ from Brian tooly, you can get the blue ls6 springs New from scoggin dicky for 80$ and step up to the larger stock vet cam. I'm sure if you only have a light scratch it can be polished out for little if nothing. If you go aftermarket cam get better than stock springs. Prc or Pac are my choice in that order. Got converter will be fine

[Robznob11]

As far as the rockers. Stockers are best, you can upgrade them with a trunion kit if you would like, aftermarket rockers don't have a good reputation for ls engines. They have too much weight over the nose and hurt more than help.

[Cuate]

Excuse my ignorance but what all comes in a CAM KIT when ordered?