I'm so tired of cracking frame at shocks

[jesdude7789]

Does anybody make a shock relocation kit for a stock 1/2 ton 87 truck? Front and Rears?
I have welded up the cracks before and even had a friend do the front passenger side for me and he is a certified welder but they are cracking again less than 2 years later.

If nothing is available then I'm thinking of making up my own c-channel bracket to bolt on OVER the frame rail and that would cover the old holes and provide a new stud for the top of the shocks to attach to.

[greg64]

I'm curious, are you talking a 2WD or 4WD truck?

[jesdude7789]

Originally Posted by greg64

I'm curious, are you talking a 2WD or 4WD truck?

it's a 2wd

[jesdude7789]

well I found something made by CPP that MIGHT help the front shocks. a little add on bracket that supports the outer end of the shock stud and ties back into the frame further back where you drill two holes and bolt the bracket on. My issue with that is I still have to figure out how to get to the back of the frame cracks to weld it back up don't I??

[greg64]

You're talking about this CPP part, right: http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...k/6372FSRB.htm ?

I thought I'd seen something like this and was trying to remember where.

To me, either the top of the shock needs to be supported on both sides (like the CPP bracket does), or the back-side of the frame needs additional steel for support, like the braces for the back-side of the steering box. I'll do some more looking...

[72MARIO]

What shocks are you running ? My dad has over a million miles on his 1973 and we have never had a issue with frame cracking.

[jesdude7789]

Originally Posted by greg64

You're talking about this CPP part, right: http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...k/6372FSRB.htm ?

I thought I'd seen something like this and was trying to remember where.

To me, either the top of the shock needs to be supported on both sides (like the CPP bracket does), or the back-side of the frame needs additional steel for support, like the braces for the back-side of the steering box. I'll do some more looking...

Yes that's it. For $30 though I should probably make my own version of that with the 3/16" steel plate that I have laying around. They aren't a bad idea but I was hoping to find something even more stout that would eliminate the use of the factory stud hole completely.

[jesdude7789]

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

What shocks are you running ? My dad has over a million miles on his 1973 and we have never had a issue with frame cracking.

They are the Monroe Reflex. I've had them on my truck for 8 years or so. Replaced them with the same exact model once in that time though.

[enaberif]

One of the biggest issues with welding is you heat up metal and change its properties. It probably cracked again because of this and the only true fix would be to weld in a plate and create a new mount.

[Slammed84]

My first shortwide frame was cracked like broken glass between the four bolts that hold the power steering gear. I had to take it to a frame shop and he replaced the entire section of frame from behind it to the front bumper. Kinda glad it happened cause I ended up working for him.

About a year later that truck got hit hard in the front end. Took it to his shop and the first thing he said was " I bet you my welds didn't break " and they didn't

[jesdude7789]

Originally Posted by enaberif

One of the biggest issues with welding is you heat up metal and change its properties. It probably cracked again because of this and the only true fix would be to weld in a plate and create a new mount.

That's what I was thinking about the newer cracks. I guess I can cut out the damage completely and then slap a new plate over the hole and weld it all the way around on the outside face of the rail?

Originally Posted by Slammed84

My first shortwide frame was cracked like broken glass between the four bolts that hold the power steering gear. I had to take it to a frame shop and he replaced the entire section of frame from behind it to the front bumper. Kinda glad it happened cause I ended up working for him.

About a year later that truck got hit hard in the front end. Took it to his shop and the first thing he said was " I bet you my welds didn't break " and they didn't

Did he use fish plates?

[Slammed84]

Originally Posted by jesdude7789

That's what I was thinking about the newer cracks. I guess I can cut out the damage completely and then slap a new plate over the hole and weld it all the way around on the outside face of the rail?


Did he use fish plates?

I dont know what fish plates are , and to be perfectly honest i really dont remember how he did it. He is a genius with frames though. 50+ years of fixing twisted frames. We straightened a 90's model front frame section that was bent like a foot straight up.

[KQQL IT]

Easier fix.

Factory dual shock K10
2nd shock bracket

[ETKTRYD]

Is the truck lowered ? Shocks bottomed out ?

[greg64]

Originally Posted by ETKTRYD

Is the truck lowered ? Shocks bottomed out ?

I was wondering that too. Granted, the original design of the top shock mount is lousy, but mine hasn't cracked there. If the shocks bottom out, that would put a lot more stress on the frame.

[jesdude7789]

Originally Posted by KQQL IT

Easier fix.

Factory dual shock K10
2nd shock bracket

Is there somewhere I can buy those new?

Originally Posted by ETKTRYD

Is the truck lowered ? Shocks bottomed out ?

The truck is completely stock. Not lowered or anything special. I'm in the middle of a 5.3/4l60e swap and I hope to have it back on the road within a month or so and I'd like to fix this problem before I take it out with the new drivetrain and have crack crik crack squeak going on haha. If you look at my profile picture it shows the truck just like it is. I drive my beater 1990 suburban daily right now and it has the same issue in the rear and I need to fix it too so it constantly reminds me of the need to repair the 87 as well.

[KQQL IT]

The truck is lowered, but they could be bolted on the rail at any hight.

[dragn91]

I'd check the shock length and when you weld it up this time find the end of the crack on both sides and drill a hole to keep it from spreading. Bevel deep and weld up solid should have no problems.