weekend drag racing

[Jbm1956]

Im thinking about doing some drag racing at my local drag strip in Bakersfield ca. I have a 56 chevy pickup with camaro rearend not sure of the gear ratio. I have from what I know a stock chevy 350 with edelbrock carb and intake. What all would I have to do to be able to compete in the sportsman/Hot rod series. Can I do something to the motor I have now like add a cam bigger carb or heads etc. Etc. Any info will be greatly appreciated. I have another chevy 350 block as well that needs to be rebuilt. Please give me all the info you can. Thanks

[Blue Rat]

How fast you have to be to run that class?

[Marv D]

If your speaking of the NHRA Summit series 'Sportsman" it's mufflers, street tires, and (depending on track) limited to 11.50 and slower which should be no issue from what I see,, I'm guessing 13's.
FIRST thing you should do is get the truck safe, and ready for tech.

Most tracks web site will give you a list of things required for vehicles 13.00 and slower(expect to start there)

No broken glass, seat belts, no missing lugs, radiator overflow catch can, If you have aftermarket wheels the lug spec is the threads of the stud MUST PROJECT INTO THE HEX PORTION of the lug, at least the same distance as the diameter as the lug (I.I. a 7/16 lug must stick into the HEX PORTION of the lug 7/16". Don't be fooled here, they will turn you around if it's not. Most aftermarket wheels with long collared lugs won't pass.

Nothing can be loose or looking like it could possibly fall off or they will fail you.

[Jbm1956]

Yes it is the summit series. If you run faster then 11.50 you need a roll cage and a helmet if your slower you dont need it. But I just want to be able to compete well. So trying to get an idea on whqt I can do without going crazy. Can I add just a cam and lifters? Or do I have to add everything. Hope to hear your guys info. Thanks

[Hollow65]

Depensds what you have for compression and top end. Do you have an idea how much power you are making currently? Also, how much does the truck weigh?

[Jbm1956]

Its a stock 56 chevy pickup so im guessing close to 3200 pounds. Im not sure of the compression im just assuming a stock chevy 350 build

[Hollow65]

I would run the stock motor for now and build the spare for the future. Get used to cutting a good light/reaction time. I would go 383 with the spare. You can get 400hp all day long out of those. I wouldn't jump in head first in to the race thing. Give it a go with what ya got. If ya dig it and want to go faster, build a motor, trans and rea end.

[Jbm1956]

Yea thats what I was thinking. In the mean time you wouldn't add anything to the current motor now. Cam, heads, anything. Even If I dont race all that much I would still like the power to be there just in case lol.

[hotrod 80]

You will need a helmet at 13.99 or faster most places , so take one with you . As Marv said check the essentials and make sure it is safe . Around here on street car night if the offense is negligable they will let you know to fix it next trip ( nuetral safety switch comes to mind ) . This all depends on the tech guy . i wouldnt worry about motor changes right now jut go out and have fun. A stock motor with a broad torque curve will tend to be consistant . Make your time trials , shoe polish a number on it and enjoy .

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Marv D

UST PROJECT INTO THE HEX PORTION of the lug, at least the same distance as the diameter as the lug (I.I. a 7/16 lug must stick into the HEX PORTION of the lug 7/16". Don't be fooled here, they will turn you around if it's not. Most aftermarket wheels with long collared lugs won't pass.
.

I'm having a hard time picturing what your trying to describe here. If its got acorn or capped lugs, how can they tell how far in its sticking?

[Hollow65]

I've seen them make you take one off.

[Marv D]

Absolutely. If you have closed lugs they may well have you take one off so take a lug wrench with you to tech.

I'll see if I can find a scan of the lug requirement. It's one that many tracks are real sticklers about,, along with the neutral safety and a radiator catch can on the overflow. and like mentioned helmet at 13.99 or quicker. Tech/Safety isn't just for your own good, it's for the guy n the $80,000 car next to you also.

[hotrod 80]

Not that tough down here if you get in the line and they are backed up . Once its been teched and you are a "regular" your good to go . They mark the windsheild with a colored sticky dot and change the color for different days . Once you get 5 or 6 accumulated your a regular . They log belt dates at the first of the year and just glance at them after that . At 13.99 factory belts are good . Just go have fun .

[Marv D]

I just caught that your in Bakersfield... Man you should see (or maybe have) some of the stuff they let run at the HotRod reunion there. It has to comply to something,, but heck if I know what. It sure ain't NHRA. So the 'track rules' probably apply to the weekend test and tune.They WILL check the overflow, battery hold down and factory belts for a street car (13.99 and slower). The lugs may not be an issue if they do not meet tech,, the FIRST TIME, but they will let you know to get longer studs. It's just a good anyways.

The NHRA Summit series WILL push NHRA tech. Your in Division 7 and Bakersfield is a big track for Div 7. To run a track 'team' they have to comply with NHRA ET tech. Thing is the 'team' will send the top 20 finishers of each class to the ET finals. You can bet EVERYONE there is 100% perfect on tech items. or you get disqualified. So they don't let the much 'skate' because the car would just get disqualified at the ET finals.

Part of the Summit series bracket racing is you have to be a NHRA member and have a NHRA competition number. When you join you'll get a rule book. Your well advised to get to know it real well.

You don't have to be a 8 second car to be competitive, win, and have fun!!! But you do need to be safe about doing it. Believe me,, having to spend nearly $2000 ever 3 years to bring everything current on my Nova (8.50 chassis cert, 4B license physical, EKG, belts, trans case cert, flex plate, helmet, window net, bla bla bla BLA!) I only have to shell out about 1/2 of what some of the guys like Jimmy, Vince and others have to do to keep their ride current. The quicker you go the more safety required,, It's easy to b-i-t-c-h about it,, but if something in the car in the other lane failed, and it got loose and wiped out YOUR ride (or life) you'd be screaming about why HE didn't have to have all the safety junk.

It's a PITA, it's expensive,, but it's just plane SMART. Don't cry about it, just do it and know you've done everything you can to protect yourself, your truck, and your fellow racers.

[Jbm1956]

Yea the California Hot Rod Reunion is a awesome race. I believe its different then the summit series though. Everything on my truck will be safe thats a given. I was just trying to have a little more power but seems like its too much of a hassle. I dont know anything about thr motor so it makes it extremely hard to add a bigger cam because I dont know what cam is in it.

[KQQL IT]

Get a non motorcycle helmet.
Also tell the starter your new to the track, and tree. They'll help you thru the burn out box and tree.

Good people at Famoso, made a ton of laps there

[vin63]

Originally Posted by Jbm1956

Yea the California Hot Rod Reunion is a awesome race. I believe its different then the summit series though. Everything on my truck will be safe thats a given. I was just trying to have a little more power but seems like its too much of a hassle. I dont know anything about thr motor so it makes it extremely hard to add a bigger cam because I dont know what cam is in it.

Famoso is my home track, and I would recommend wearing a helmet anyway. The other thing is to be sure you have an NHRA membership. Since it is a bracket race, I wouldn't worry about adding performance parts - consistency wins races. I would mainly concentrate on passing tech right now. Head down there for one of the Friday night test-n-tunes and go through tech, explaining that you would like to eventually race in the Summit Series and need to know what you have to do to pass tech. After you pass tech, run the truck and get your base line ET. Good luck and have fun.

[Keith Seymore]

Vin - I'm curious why you recommend the NHRA membership?

I've been racing for 38 years now and have never been a member. I'm not sure I am missing anything as a result (low 10 sec car, so no NHRA license is required).

K

[hotrod 80]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

Vin - I'm curious why you recommend the NHRA membership?

I've been racing for 38 years now and have never been a member. I'm not sure I am missing anything as a result (low 10 sec car, so no NHRA license is required).

K

Lots of reasons . Call summit and Jegs and give them your member number and get a pro shop account . The money you save on parts will pay for the membership . Also without the membership you only race local and cant make the bracket team for divisionals or the opertunity to go to world championship

[Keith Seymore]

I see; thanks for the reply.

I've followed the NMCA/NSCA (Hot Rod Fastest Street Car shootout) schedule for the last 20 years-ish, so no real motivation to try for an NHRA bracket event or championship.

K

[hotrod 80]

Wonder how his race weekend went ?

[Super73]

I am a firm believer in traction before motor work. This makes things more consistent. Tires, posi, converter and good trans cooler would be the first place I put my money.

[Jbm1956]

I appreciate everyones input. Im just going to get it going and then I can upgrade later. And when I upgrade im thinking of going with a big block.

[Kyle@FTP]

Originally Posted by Super73

I am a firm believer in traction before motor work. This makes things more consistent. Tires, posi, converter and good trans cooler would be the first place I put my money.

Nailed it. I would imagine most track do some sort of dial in racing or gambler. Get consistent, win money and by far the most important part for me, have fun!

[KQQL IT]

Originally Posted by Super73

I am a firm believer in traction before motor work. This makes things more consistent. Tires, posi, converter and good trans cooler would be the first place I put my money.

I agree completely
2.20 60' to 1.67 60' = 1.5 second drop in ET mph never changed more than few mph