harmonic balancer help!

[seanrolandwood]

got a new balancer(6.75 summit brand) heated up in oven slipped over the crank end and gave it a few hits with my dead blow to ensure it was seated all the way....some say never do this(potentially damaging thrust bearing and so forth some say i do it all the time) but its done so here my issue the new balancer seams to be deeper on the crank end than the old (i didnt measure the distace before i pulled old one...awesome i know)did i just set it too deep on crank end and can i just back it off to where it needs to be or did i f&$# up and knock something out of the back of the block....what is the gap supposed to be at back of block between it and the crank....Please help any advice would be greatly appreciated thank you

[Captainfab]

The balancer must be all the way seated against the timing chain gear. It almost looks like there is too much space between the balancer and the timing chain cover. Is this a small journal engine or a large journal with a tapped crank snout? If it is tapped, there is an installation tool for installing the balancer. I make my own out of a piece of 7/16"-20 B7 all thread, 2 grade 8 nuts and a couple grade 8 washers.

[seanrolandwood]

Alright so whats eatting at me is that its the same crank, timing cover, timing clip as before just a new balancer why would they fit differently on crank end snout they appeared to be the same height and width as each other im lost as to why the new one is seated so much further back than old one(picture 1&2)... my pulleys are not lining up at all.... just for some peace of mind whats the gap supposed to be on rear of engine between block and the end of crank 3rd picture 1st post

[PGSigns]

I think you may find they are not the same. No way to knock something out the back of the block.
Jimmy

[enaberif]

You 100% need a harmonic balancer installer to seat it properly. Using a dead blow will not get it on all the way.

Also a harmonic balancer should not be heated up.

[dhamilton62]

Originally Posted by enaberif

You 100% need a harmonic balancer installer to seat it properly. Using a dead blow will not get it on all the way.

Also a harmonic balancer should not be heated up.

not to jump on this thread, but what's the best way to install the balancer on an early sbc that's a press fit using an installer if that crank doesn't have threads? Or do you need to drill and tap the crank end to achieve that?

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by dhamilton62

not to jump on this thread, but what's the best way to install the balancer on an early sbc that's a press fit using an installer if that crank doesn't have threads? Or do you need to drill and tap the crank end to achieve that?

Drilling is the best way to do it.. But you could heat the balancer (which I don't recommend) and freeze the snout and hope it slides on well.

[seanrolandwood]

YES i get it use a balancer install/removal tool to seat balancer properly....however im past that ive heated it up and hit with dead blow....still my question is why would it be futher back on crank snout the ditance from snount end to timing gear didnt change is it just me am i the only one whose ever encountered this every thread it is it wont seat all the way im having the opposite issue it went further back than old one...every thread ive found says their balancer is 1inch exactly to 1.10 from crank end snout mine sits at 1.242" from end of snout only adding further frustration so according to everything I've found its not quite on all the way but somehow its further back than old one as my lower pulleys are about 1/8ish of an inch further back than my water pump pulley......so frustrated anyone else ever encounter this and what solutions did you find

[enaberif]

Originally Posted by seanrolandwood

YES i get it use a balancer install/removal tool to seat balancer properly....however im past that ive heated it up and hit with dead blow....still my question is why would it be futher back on crank snout the ditance from snount end to timing gear didnt change is it just me am i the only one whose ever encountered this every thread it is it wont seat all the way im having the opposite issue it went further back than old one...every thread ive found says their balancer is 1inch exactly to 1.10 from crank end snout mine sits at 1.242" from end of snout only adding further frustration so according to everything I've found its not quite on all the way but somehow its further back than old one as my lower pulleys are about 1/8ish of an inch further back than my water pump pulley......so frustrated anyone else ever encounter this and what solutions did you find

No two engines are the same as no two balancers are the same.

All that matters is do your belts line up straight? Can you get the harmonic balancer bolt installed?

[GRX]

Hope you installed a new timing cover seal.

[seanrolandwood]

so i got the new balancer off measured the distance from end of snout to floor and whatta know pretty much exact a few hundreths difference but nothing like the difference in pictures so the mystery continues...i also measured the distance from timing gear to snout end and marked where that would be on inside of balancer and both marks are equal distances to front of balancer so i am only further confused as every measurement I've taken the balancers are identical in design one doesn't have a longer snout than other , so why would it not seat like old one.the new one is an 1/8 to 3/16 closer to block...follow up question could i shim lower pulleys out to where they do line up not that explans what the f $@k is going on but i could at least move forward and yes new crank seal installed

[71swb4x4]

Have you reinstalled the old one? Are you certain it was fully seated originally?

[enaberif]

Diameters of the balancers the same? What about the width?

There different versions of a harmonic balancer depending on if its a 305 or a 350 or a car or a truck.

[seanrolandwood]

i have not installed old one again yet, i marked the inside of each balancer where the crank snout would land inside if seated all the way to timing gear in it and each is 1.021 from face of balancer numerically they are identical in every way size, width, length of snout, total hieght(from ground to top of snout) i am now thinking that old one was not set on all the way but in a year plus of everyday driving the truck before i took motor out no noticeable vibrations or the timing going outta whack nothing, thing ran like a top perfectly smooth....until a issue with old head prompted me to not just replace heads but why not redo everything(NO I DIDNT ASSEMBLE LOWER END MACHINE SHOP DID CRANK, BEARINGS, PISTIONS, ECT....) and be done with it a decision i am kinda iffy about right now but i know when its done it will be worth it....id rather be driving dammit

[bbcmudtruck]

The balancer needs to be torqued, so that means you need to install it fully seated. As far as shimming the pulley out to line up with the PS and Water pump, yes, that should be fine. Small diameter washers between the pulley and the dampner should do the trick. As long as your sure you have the correct dampner, you'll be fine. I know you've said your aware of the installing process, but just to feel better about it, an installation tool only cost 30 bucks. Most stores will rent you one for cheap as well. A little anti seize on the crank threads as your installing it will help keep your threads in good shape and require less effort.

[61K10]

summit has shims for the crankshaft pulley. I had to shim mine also with a new crate 350 and a summit H/damper