Turn key and ABSOLUTELY nothing happens

[Cdavis131]

I have an 1967 custom camper. Aside from all the extra goodies in it I've ruled out the things that would cause this. I put new fuses in, changed battery terminals, checked ground wires, put in a new battery, and followed the wires from the battery to the starter, alternator and ignition. I got a reading on the starter as well as the ground that's in the block. I finally followed it back to the ignition box that was put in it. It's a "Nelson specialties" ignition? I Build bikes not old trucks so I am very unfamiliar with this stuff. Anyways, I used my multimeter to test up to the box and entering the box I have power then I test the ignition pin on the exit that would go to my points and the key inside the cab and I'm getting nothing. I guess my question would be, does this mean it's my ignition that's preventing anything from working or could it be something else? When I put the battery in i kept everything as is and even tried my headlights. I'm totally stumped. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Regards

Cory

[special-K]

Hey Cory, it does sound like the switch. You have power to it, but not out to distributor? These are simple systems still. Nothing to interrupt circuit, such as anti-theft. I think your hunch is right on track. There is a trick to removing these switches from the dash. Let us know if you need a run through. It would be nice if a nearby member could assist with a spare switch to plug in to test. These switches don't go bad to much, but sounds like yours is a replacement. Might be better off with a used OEM

[Cdavis131]

Originally Posted by special-K

Hey Cory, it does sound like the switch. You have power to it, but not out to distributor? These are simple systems still. Nothing to interrupt circuit, such as anti-theft. I think your hunch is right on track. There is a trick to removing these switches from the dash. Let us know if you need a run through. It would be nice if a nearby member could assist with a spare switch to plug in to test. These switches don't go bad to much, but sounds like yours is a replacement. Might be better off with a used OEM

Much appreciated. Im happy to hear someone agrees with me. This stuff is a lot harder then buildin Harley's. I totally forgot to mention that when the truck was parked it did so for about 4 years. The old battery ended up exploding so I was thinking that the battery exploding might have shorted that thing out. I even called Nelson specialties in North Carolina and they said the same as you, that they don't go bad very often. A buddy of mine suggested I take it to an OReilly's and see if they can test it there so I might do that. In the mean time I'm gunna clean out the gas tank and do some things here and there. Also would it matter if the key was in the on position before I tested that plug coming out of the ignition box? My dad told me that it would matter because the key is what would make all the power fun through but I don't see that mattering? Any other info would be awesome, the story behind this truck is a great one and multiple people would be so happy to see it running again. HAPPY EASTER!
Regards

Cory

[Sklptrljay]

I could be wrong, but it could be your neutral safety switch if I'm remembering my wiring correctly. If it comes loose you won't get anything to your ignition. It's worth a shot. It's located at the base of the steering column before it goes out the firewall. Should have 2 purple wires.

[jocko]

what sklptrjay said - that one stumped me for DAYS when I reinstalled an engine in a 72 Cheyenne. Keep in mind, if it's in neutral, it won't start either (i.e. the switch works). That's what I did. Had to roll the truck in/under a stationary cherry picker and pulled my hair out when I thought I was done and couldn't get it to start. Had left in neutral. Wanted to kick myself.. Good lesson though!

[NTIMID8R]

I would go with the ignition switch first. If it's the original, it probably could use one anyway. Same thing happened to me, I got under the dash and looked around and found the purple wire loose from the switch. I thought, cool, this is simple. Put the wire back in and tried to crank, still nothing. Pulled the switch out and found it was burned up at two terminals. Put new switch in and reinstalled the terminal on the purple wire and been driving ever since

[WIDESIDE72]

A correctly functioning and properly adjusted neutral safety switch SHOULD allow you to crank/ start the engine in park AND neutral, but not reverse or any drive gear.

I would be curious to know if the mentioned truck above that would start in park but not neutral would also start in reverse of forward.