Small block where there was a 6 (1966)

[HSRACER]

So far the only problem I have run into is the clutch pivot ball on the 72 engine I am putting in the 66 has a ball that is on a bracket that positions it way to far back. I have been told that the correct ball location is to find one that just bolts directly to the forward hole the my current bracket is bolted to. Then everything else should work.

Does this sound right to everyone?

Thanks for any help or guidance as to where I can find one of these pivot balls.

[padresag]

top left of the page in the following link; #7 ball stud screws directly into the eng block. the bracket with ball stud is I6 only
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cbe/full.aspx?Page=89
ron

[spookylynx]

Yup, I have a 65 that was I6, with a SBC conversion from a 72.
Motor was mounted directly onto the I6 mounts, ball stud went right into the block and bell crank lined up with the frame bracket..

[Captainfab]

Yes that is correct. With the small block in the correct location (same as the 230/250 I6) you will need a ballstud in the forward location on the block.

[HSRACER]

Thanks for all the info. I got one from my friend but no I have to replac it for him!

[HSRACER]

Now that I have the bar in and working the location of the pivot is right smack in the middle of the angled ram horn manifold dump! Did the manual transmission v8 engines use the straight down ram horns or was there a different angled version on the 1966 trucks??

Any additional advice is appreciated!!!!

[jtrichard]

Straight down

[Captainfab]

The angled rams horns are for the '67-'72's. The '60-'66's used the rams horns with a straight dump.

[HSRACER]

Luckily I had a pair of straight down dumps. The new problem with those was the alternator mount was cast into them causing interference with the head mounted alt bracket. A cutting wheel solved that issue!

The 350 is now in and running with working clutch. Test drive was great but has left me stranded twice now with what appears to be a fuel issue.

This truck has an additional tank mounted under the bed and some type of electric switching valve that I will need to diagnose. I have already rebuilt the carb and saw no problems and verified that the fuel pump,had good strong out put so I believe the valve or lines are suspect.

Yesterday I bought new fuel pump, points, condenser, cap, rotor, coil, plugs, fuel filters, fuel line, and a carrier bearing to put on her when I return from traveling. I hope to eliminate whatever issue that is causing the engine to die. It acts like it is running out of fuel then dies. It will crank over with no sign of trying to fire. Both times after letting it sit 15 minutes she fires up,and I have made it home. Also, it doesn't like 2/3 or higher throttle openings as it starts to misfire. This engine is one I bought from a guy that pulled it out of his running truck 3 days before I bought it. He did say it was running perfectly before he pulled it.

I love these kinds of projects and will eventually figure it all out. Thanks for reading and your advice.