Question about my pully and H balancer

[Isaiah92260]

Howdy! I know I post a lot, I'm new to chevy's and I still need to buy a Shop manual, but I have a serious question about my crank and H balanced :/ recently a Hot Rod guy was looking at why my pully had so much slack, and we saw that you could literally pull the whole damn pulley out if the radiator wasn't in the way!! D: I know I know, you guys are gonna say "what the hell! Stop driving " or "fix it" that's why I drive an old truck every day to work, cuz I can't afford a new one lol!! And plus I just like driving old cars, but, the old guy was telling me that I need the washer and nut for the pulley, after talking the the previous owner, my 67 I6 was a pressed in pully style, there was never a bolt and washer! Anyways, what do I need to do? I'm sure I'm gonna need new harmonic balanced and pulley? Or just the balanced? And how do I do it? Do I need to pull out my aluminum radiator for space to work? Obviously my motor has over 200,000 miles on it, maybe even 3.... I wish I could just send it in to get a total rebuild. I'd love to drive this truck every day with no problem and have a reliable motor. Besides all the issues I ask about, it's true what everyone tells me, these I6 motors run FOREVER! It's like driving a tank!

[MikeN]

Your balancer is likely cracked in the hub. You just need a new balancer. Without your crank snout drilled, the new one can safely be driven on with a hammer and a wooden block.

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

I still need to buy a Shop manual . . . . . !

You won't ever regret spending the money for a Factory Service Manual. Pays for itself the first time you use it.

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

Anyways, what do I need to do?!

Pull the old harmonic balancer off. You can get a loaner tool at the auto parts store. Buy a new balancer.

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

Do I need to pull out my aluminum radiator for space to work?

Yes, the radiator will likely need to be removed.

Here's a photo of the wooden block I used to smack my balancer back onto the crank snout. The center is cut out so it won't hit the crank snout. The portion around the hole is the only part that contacts the balancer because you don't want to hit the ring of the balancer, only hit the center. By using the block I could drive it straight on.

First, smear a little grease on the crank snout. Next, heat the center of the balancer with a propane torch until hot enough to make water sizzle. Before it has time to cool, line it up with the crank and use a wood block or something as a tamp to knock the balancer onto the crank snout. I had a lot of fear having never done it and it was very simple using the above procedure and wood block.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

You won't ever regret spending the money for a Factory Service Manual. Pays for itself the first time you use it.



Pull the old harmonic balancer off. You can get a loaner tool at the auto parts store. Buy a new balancer.



Yes, the radiator will likely need to be removed.

Here's a photo of the wooden block I used to smack my balancer back onto the crank snout. The center is cut out so it won't hit the crank snout. The portion around the hole is the only part that contacts the balancer because you don't want to hit the ring of the balancer, only hit the center. By using the block I could drive it straight on.

First, smear a little grease on the crank snout. Next, heat the center of the balancer with a propane torch until hot enough to make water sizzle. Before it has time to cool, line it up with the crank and use a wood block or something as a tamp to knock the balancer onto the crank snout. I had a lot of fear having never done it and it was very simple using the above procedure and wood block.

Thank you so much!!! That answers everything and sounds very simple! I need to get around it ASAP!

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

Thank you so much!!! That answers everything and sounds very simple! I need to get around it ASAP!

I never exactly said it, but I hit the wood block with a 3 pound sledge. Tapping at first and then increasing the strength of the blows until it started moving the balancer into place.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

I never exactly said it, but I hit the wood block with a 3 pound sledge. Tapping at first and then increasing the strength of the blows until it started moving the balancer into place.

Where do I find the proper balancer for my motor? I have a 67 250 I6. I've seen so many online

[Isaiah92260]

Can I use the same pully too? Or buy a new one?

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

Where do I find the proper balancer for my motor? I have a 67 250 I6. I've seen so many online

Check in the classified section here on the forum. You should be able to find one.

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

Can I use the same pully too? Or buy a new one?

If you are referring to the fan pulley, no. Keep what you have. The harmonic balancer has a pulley all as a single piece. When you get a new balancer it all comes as one piece. It's not something that is supposed to come apart.

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by Lugnutz65

You won't ever regret spending the money for a Factory Service Manual. Pays for itself the first time you use it.



Pull the old harmonic balancer off. You can get a loaner tool at the auto parts store. Buy a new balancer.



Yes, the radiator will likely need to be removed.

Here's a photo of the wooden block I used to smack my balancer back onto the crank snout. The center is cut out so it won't hit the crank snout. The portion around the hole is the only part that contacts the balancer because you don't want to hit the ring of the balancer, only hit the center. By using the block I could drive it straight on.

First, smear a little grease on the crank snout. Next, heat the center of the balancer with a propane torch until hot enough to make water sizzle. Before it has time to cool, line it up with the crank and use a wood block or something as a tamp to knock the balancer onto the crank snout. I had a lot of fear having never done it and it was very simple using the above procedure and wood block.

Hey, lugnutz, I really like your wooden block AND the idea behind it, very neat. However, I'd BE AFRAID OF HEATING the har/bal with propane, as the snout will absorb the heat and probably NOT BE GOOD AT ALL for the snout-seal. If I felt the need for heat, I'd maybe let the har/bal lie in the sunshine for an hour or so, getting only hot enough to still be handheld--that's in our S.C. sunshine! [BTW, I've never had to use ANY kind of heat.] All just MY idea, of course.
Sam

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by luvbowties

Hey, lugnutz, I really like your wooden block AND the idea behind it, very neat. However, I'd BE AFRAID OF HEATING the har/bal with propane, as the snout will absorb the heat and probably NOT BE GOOD AT ALL for the snout-seal. If I felt the need for heat, I'd maybe let the har/bal lie in the sunshine for an hour or so, getting only hot enough to still be handheld--that's in our S.C. sunshine! [BTW, I've never had to use ANY kind of heat.] All just MY idea, of course.
Sam

Your concerns are valid. Heating with a torch was an idea given to me by an older fella from another forum. Said he'd put hundreds of HB on that way so I just took his word for it. I certainly understand your concern about the timing cover seal. So far mine has not leaked.

Many people recommend drilling and then tapping a hole in the crank snout and then use a retaining bolt to install the HB. I just didn't have the tools needed to do that.

[MikeN]

I've installed many balancers with a wooden block and 3lb hammer. Never used heat, and all went on easily.

You will likely have to remove the radiator to get room to swing the hammer.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by MikeN

I've installed many balancers with a wooden block and 3lb hammer. Never used heat, and all went on easily.

You will likely have to remove the radiator to get room to swing the hammer.

So this isn't any particular way the H Balancer goes in? I saw some online that had degree marks on it, there isn't any think that I need to know in detail? Or like all you guys said, just pop it in? Just want to make sure, every little thing I do, is a new experience for me with Chevy, I'm learning as I go. Maybe I should replace the thermostate too if I need to take off the radiator. I've been holding off on that, which I shouldn't. Damn I wish I had buddies to help me out here, l. Ha!

[Isaiah92260]

I just moved to Palm Springs. I don't like this daily 120 degree weather!

[chevy_mike]

There is a woodruff key in the crank that lines up with a key way in the balancer. You need to line those up when you install it. Inline 6 engine have the pulley as part of the balancer. It can be a single groove or double groove. If double, there are two different spacings that I have seen between the two pulley grooves. Get a replacement that matches what you have.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by chevy_mike

There is a woodruff key in the crank that lines up with a key way in the balancer. You need to line those up when you install it. Inline 6 engine have the pulley as part of the balancer. It can be a single groove or double groove. If double, there are two different spacings that I have seen between the two pulley grooves. Get a replacement that matches what you have.

Thank very much for your Insite!

[Isaiah92260]

Thank you everyone for your replies and sharing your knowledge! I wish I can take you all out for a beer! Lol!

[Isaiah92260]

I believe this is the one I need, but why does it have two grooves on it? I only have one belt. No A/C, but I have air

[Lugnutz65]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

I believe this is the one I need, but why does it have two grooves on it? I only have one belt. No A/C, but I have air

It looks correct. The second groove is for a power steering belt. It would be nice to have that extra groove if you ever install PS. Same pulley as in my pics.