Help identify my alternator!

[dmw319]

1970 c10 350

Alternator is making a ton of noise and I want to replace it and trying to make sure I buy the proper replacement. It is located on the driver side, here are 3 pics:

[FirstOwner69]

Looks like an original type to me. Compare it to the pictures at rockauto.com.

[68Gold/white]

That is an original alternator, no doubt. That unit has the plug in from the back. It is an externally regulated type. You can use an older on that has the plug in a different location. I'd try to stick w/ one exactly like what you've got. I would repair or rebuild your original.

[dmw319]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

I'd try to stick w/ one exactly like what you've got.

That's what I'm aiming for as well, just looking for some direction as to where I can find one.

[BMERDOC]

Like FirstOwner said, try RockAuto. That alternator is the external regulated one, however, I doubt its the "original". Looks like it says 10 FEB 2007 on it.

[dmw319]

Originally Posted by BMERDOC

Like FirstOwner said, try RockAuto. That alternator is the external regulated one, however, I doubt its the "original". Looks like it says 10 FEB 2007 on it.

You are correct. The previous owner wrote that date on it when he installed it.

[leftybass209]

Yep, that is the original style. With its issues, you have an opportunity to switch to an internally regulated alternator. You can do a search if it's something you are interested in.

[dmw319]

Originally Posted by leftybass209

Yep, that is the original style. With its issues, you have an opportunity to switch to an internally regulated alternator. You can do a search if it's something you are interested in.

Yeah, I have read about that but honestly have never had any issues with the alternator thus far - so will likely just leave it alone and try to find a replacement that will be a simple swap.

[dmw319]

So I bought the alternator at carquest and there is a sticker on it that's says to always replace the external regulator at the same time.

I'm assuming that's true?
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[Redline novdog]

I unfortunately I replaced my regulator a few weeks before the alternator burned the battery post off the back of it.For a few dollars more it's good insurance to replace both

[RichardJ]

If it was charging, there is no reason to assume there is any problem at all with the regulator. By the looks of it in your picture, the front bearing is the source of the noise. $5 at NAPA.
For those that want you to change to an internally regulated alternator, they use the exact same bearing as this alternator. Brushes if needed, $5. Rear bearing that doesn't go out as often, $8.

5 to 10 minute rebuild time.

Long before I replaced the regulator, I'd get rid of that cracked belt.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

Put it on & check the charging voltage. If it is around 14 volts & is steady you do not need a new one. The old original one is probably better than a new one you would get now.

[mike16]

make sure its not origonal or does not have some value to others before trading it in, Then either rebuild it your self or trade it in.

[MikeyMan]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

Put it on & check the charging voltage. If it is around 14 volts & is steady you do not need a new one. The old original one is probably better than a new one you would get now.

x2

The new replacement regulators are foreign made and cheaply built.
If the old one is working properly, stick with it.
If you must replace it, look for some old stock preferably made in USA.

[dmw319]

Thanks guys. I will leave it on for now and replace it later if need be.

Also I bought 2 new belts that will be going on as well!
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[RichardJ]

I recommended keeping the working regulator and I have some comments about replacement regulators.
I agree with MikeyMan about the replacement regulators, but only the original type regulators. The $50-60 mechanical, relay regulators don't have a good reputation.
The $20-30 Solid-State regulators that I have used, have been very reliable. I suspect the internal components of this regulator are very nearly the same as those in the Solid-State, internal regulator used in the 10SI and 12SI. The main difference is the External Solid-State regulator is exposed to far less heat than the regulator stuffed inside the SI alternators.
The Solid-State regulators can be identified by very light weight and absence of the wire resistors on the bottom.

[slikside]

Originally Posted by dmw319

1970 c10 350

Alternator is making a ton of noise and I want to replace it and trying to make sure I buy the proper replacement. It is located on the driver side, here are 3 pics:

Same thing happened with my '72. Pretty sure the bearing was going out. I went ahead and upgraded to an internally regulated 10SI.

So if your alternator is still working, you can keep it, but I would think you'd want to replace the bearings in it. If not, it will eventually lunch itself and possibly do more damage than just a failed alternator.

Bottom line, the issue needs to be addressed...on your terms. Otherwise, it will self-adjust on IT'S terms, and that might be VERY inconvenient.

[dmw319]

Originally Posted by slikside

Bottom line, the issue needs to be addressed...on your terms. Otherwise, it will self-adjust on IT'S terms, and that might be VERY inconvenient.

Agreed. I plan to replace the alternator (and belt) tonight.

[dmw319]

Changed the belt and alternator last night and noise went away! Truck drives well.

PS. The old alternator was stamped AC Delco Remy.