Push button start

[chrismoore701]

I have a 1979 and I am looking to install a push button start. What wires do I need to cut and run to the new switch? Looks like ground 1 and ground 2. Close this circuit and it starts. Your thoughts

[hatzie]

No need to cut any wires. The START stud on the starter solenoid needs to be provided with 12v from your button.

Why are you putting in a start button? The ignition switch is fairly easy to replace. It's on the outside of the steering column.

[wilkin250r]

Tell us all the details. Are you looking to replace your ignition key switch with a pushbutton? Or are you looking to run both?

If you are replacing your ignition switch completely, you'll likely need an additional switch somewhere. The problem is that your ignition key is a 3-position, with OFF-RUN-START, while a pushbutton is only two positions.

[mud.man.rj]

Wondering too..

[chrismoore701]

First off I am doing a total frame off and starting the assembly now. Just a little trick I want to do. You get in the truck and try to start it and nothing happens. Then you open the ashtray and push the cigarette lighter and she comes to life. I have a brand new ignition and plan to use it for the run feature. So you will have to have the key in and turn it to run. Thats why I want to cut the start wire so when you try to start it nothing happens. Just something cool I want to do. With a little security feature. I still need to build the switch.

[wilkin250r]

Very easy to do. I'll try to check my wiring diagram tomorrow and give you the basics.

[hatzie]

At the neutral safety or clutch interlock switch tie the pushbutton to the Yellow wire from the column switch.
The other side of the pushbutton should go to an ignition switched 12v source.

[chrismoore701]

But will that interrupt the key start?

[chrismoore701]

Here is a picture of my ignition schematic

[hatzie]

You're moving the ignition START wire that runs from the column to the neutral safety or clutch interlock switch to your add on button.... on a 1979 this wire is yellow 3 YEL-5 in the wiring diagram (Marked SOL on the switch). The other side of the button needs to be hooked to an ignition switched 12v source.

I'd slip the Packard 56 terminal out of the safety switch and tape over it. Then add a new wire and Packard 56 terminal that reaches the button. That way you can reverse it without too much trouble.

I remember reading about a fellow that used a magnetic switch mounted to the back of the knee panel to interrupt the yellow wire. The start position on the ignition switch start position didn't work without a magnet stuck on the knee panel in the right location.

[chrismoore701]

Originally Posted by hatzie

You're moving the ignition START wire that runs from the column to the neutral safety or clutch interlock switch to your add on button.... on a 1979 this wire is yellow 3 YEL-5 in the wiring diagram (Marked SOL on the switch). The other side of the button needs to be hooked to an ignition switched 12v source.

I'd slip the Packard 56 terminal out of the safety switch and tape over it. Then add a new wire and Packard 56 terminal that reaches the button. That way you can reverse it without too much trouble.

I remember reading about a fellow that used a magnetic switch mounted to the back of the knee panel to interrupt the yellow wire. The start position on the ignition switch start position didn't work without a magnet stuck on the knee panel in the right location.

If I understand this correctly, the yellow 3 YEL-5 in the wiring diagram (Marked SOL on the switch). will only get power when I turn the key to start correct? So I can not run from this tab to my push button, I need 12V switch power correct? Thanks, took a little bit, but I think I understand now. I am dangerous around schematics

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by chrismoore701

First off I am doing a total frame off and starting the assembly now. Just a little trick I want to do. You get in the truck and try to start it and nothing happens. Then you open the ashtray and push the cigarette lighter and she comes to life. I have a brand new ignition and plan to use it for the run feature. So you will have to have the key in and turn it to run. Thats why I want to cut the start wire so when you try to start it nothing happens. Just something cool I want to do. With a little security feature. I still need to build the switch.

That's what I did; the button resides in the ash tray where the cigarette lighter was.

Key on - push the button - fire in the hole.

Turn the key off when you are done.

K

[raic65]

If you're looking for a little bit of security and cool factor, this may be a better option. Works like a new car.

http://www.advancedkeys.com/

[chrismoore701]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

That's what I did; the button resides in the ash tray where the cigarette lighter was.

Key on - push the button - fire in the hole.

Turn the key off when you are done.

K

Nice article. What wires did you cut? The ones mentioned above?

[Keith Seymore]

Originally Posted by chrismoore701

Nice article. What wires did you cut? The ones mentioned above?

No - it's essentially a "bump switch" that provides 12v to the starter. So 12v to the switch and then from the switch to the starter.

Like jumping it with a screwdriver - only from the comfort of the driver's seat.

K

[chrismoore701]

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

No - it's essentially a "bump switch" that provides 12v to the starter. So 12v to the switch and then from the switch to the starter.

Like jumping it with a screwdriver - only from the comfort of the driver's seat.

K

But I need to disrupt the key start to make this work as a security feature

[chrismoore701]

I found a 15 amp switchable wire. I installed a painless harness and I have some wires I am not using. This wire is from the fuel pump. Checked it and obviously it is a switchable wire. I have wire coming from my ignition down the column to the neutral switch. that is the solenoid wire. This wire then goes from the neutral switch to the fuse block. Pulled the wire off the neutral switch to the fuse block. Turned key on, touched the feed from the fuel pump to this solenoid wire going to the fuse block and flash. no more fuel pump fuse. Am I missing something? Looking at my painless schematic, I have a 20 amp fuse for the power windows I can use.

Need some more help

[hatzie]

Originally Posted by chrismoore701

I found a 15 amp switchable wire. I installed a painless harness and I have some wires I am not using. This wire is from the fuel pump. Checked it and obviously it is a switchable wire.

Originally Posted by chrismoore701

I have wire coming from my ignition down the column to the neutral switch. that is the solenoid wire.

Yes. Should be Yellow.

Originally Posted by chrismoore701

This wire then goes from the neutral switch to the fuse block.

Purple wire? Should be. Actually should be going to the bulkhead plug behind the fuse panel.

Originally Posted by chrismoore701

Pulled the wire off the neutral switch to the fuse block. Turned key on, touched the feed from the fuel pump to this solenoid wire going to the fuse block and flash no more fuel pump fuse.

Hmmm not sure how much current the starter solenoid draws. Don't think it would blow a 15A fuse but not positive... You hooked up to the Purple wire?
Remember the Neutral safety switch also handles the backup lamps. If you plugged into the Green or Blue wire you were plugging into the backup lamps.

Originally Posted by chrismoore701

Am I missing something? Looking at my painless schematic, I have a 20 amp fuse for the power windows I can use. Need some more help

Worth a try.

[chrismoore701]

The new painless wire harness has purple wires for the solenoid. They replace the yellow. It does go to the bulk head. Should I use a direct 12 volt connection from the fuse block?

[chrismoore701]

My concern about the 20 amp fuse. Is the 15 amp was a pretty big flash. So I am guessing the 20 amp will not hold either.

[hatzie]

Something is wrong. You're just tripping a big ol relay. All the high current needs are coming right off the battery.
Does it work with the regular ignition switch?

[chrismoore701]

Yes. I booked the fuel pump wire to the wire coming from the bulk head and flash. I will try again by taking the wire from ignition switch off the neutral switch. And bring a new wire off the neutral switch and then hitting that wire with a switchable 12 volts. I need to check all my leads with a volt meter first. Will let you know. Will try this morning

[chrismoore701]

We are in. One of a couple things could have happened. After checking voltage I noticed that I have two fuel pump leads. I think I hooked the wrong one up. To my surprise the power windows is not a keyed 12V source. Now I need to find a push button that will fit in my cigarette lighter hole and then how to install my ashtray. Not sure what the bottom connects to

Thanks for your help Hatzie

[1774btcrew]

Just a heads up from someone that has dealt with this kind of ashtray push button, they can kind of be a pain. The one I dealt with, you had to hold the button in with your right hand while trying to turn the key with your left. It was pretty inconvenient. This was already on a truck my buddy purchased. That being said, it was a pretty neat security piece. This one, you couldn't even see the button. You pushed in the cigarette lighter

[chrismoore701]

I have it set up where you have to turn the key on, and then you push the button. you will not need to hold the key. I just need to get the push button installed