Level Cab

[LDO]

So I replaced the cab to frame bushings with new ones on my 57. I assume that the cab should sit level on the frame from front to rear and left to right? If so, where would be a good point to put a level on it to ensure this?

After I replaced the bushings, my brake pedal rubs the firewall hole and my door to fender gaps have changed. Should I add shims until things are back to normal or break out my level or both?

[2tractors]

I don't have an answer but your thread has added another worry to my 57bbw build as soon the cab will come off. I'd try loosening and shifting to straighten out pedal problem. Let me know how you fixed it. Good luck

[dwcsr]

The assembly manual tell you how to go about that and what measurement you should try to get

[OrrieG]

It sounds like this is a rolling truck or at least partially assembled? It is not uncommon for things to change after being altered over the years to accomodate the creeping bushing compression.

First get the frame level front to back and side to side. I have a bunch of cheap magnetic torpedo levels. Put one on the bottom of the frame under the cab on each side (or just behind the cab if the bed is off) and one across a front and rear crossmember. Then jack the corners until all are level. Then check level on the flat seam on the dash/cowl, and two raised cross sills in the cab, and cab floor between the cab to frame bolts. Check front to back at the top of the door step. All should be level with the frame.

The clutch/brake pedal interference can be fixed by loosening and moving the cab to center the holes. This will affect (and maybe improve) the fender to cab and hood to cab alignment, but you probably only have to move it 1/16" or so to get rid of the rubbing.

Once the cab is level you may need to adjust the radiator support to get the fender to door gaps right again. You could adjust cab, but then that may affect the cab alignment with the bed lines, best to start at the middle and adjust the ends! I went thru the same drill, all of my mounts were shot had to go thru the learning curve.

[LDO]

Thanks Orrie.

Yes truck was assembled but now entire front clip is off and motor is out for IFS install.

I will get the frame level today so I can address the cab issues until the IFS kit is ordered and arrives.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by LDO

So I replaced the cab to frame bushings with new ones on my 57. I assume that the cab should sit level on the frame from front to rear and left to right? If so, where would be a good point to put a level on it to ensure this?

After I replaced the bushings, my brake pedal rubs the firewall hole and my door to fender gaps have changed. Should I add shims until things are back to normal or break out my level or both?

Unless there is some serious difference for which you need to repair mounts or something there really is no reason to think too much about this. Put the bushings tighten the bolts up and there you have it. Any tiny difference is simply not going to make a big difference when you have all the other factors at play.

Brian

[mr48chev]

As Dave suggested there should be exact frame to bottom of cab measurements in the assembly manual or possibly the factory service manual.

I know that for us AD truck folks the factory assembly manual is a real headache saver along with the factory shop manual even if the truck is mostly custom.

Link to the factory assembly manual for a TF truck on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVROLET-TR...-/221365057465

[_Ogre]

you can level everything and shim to fit and still have bad door/fender gaps
do you still have the stock trans x-member in place?
cutting it out can cause the front cab supports to sag

moving the cab up will require shimming the core support to get the fender/door gaps right