Need info on some Things for LS swapping 67 c10

[67chevy1series]

Alright so I've been following a lot of builds on this site regarding LS swaps and I know what I have to do to wire in the motor, install the motor in the frame and stuff like that, but there's something I don't know, any help would be greatly appreciated.


1. Is it possible (and if so) to use my original 67-72 temp gauge with the LM7 5.3? im wondering if there's a temp sensor out there that will install on/in the motor, and I can plug my original wire in for the 67-72 temp gauge, or if I can just install the original c10 temp gauge sensor into the 5.3?

2. If I remove the original oil pressure sensor from the 5.3, can I get a simple fitting to screw into the same location as the original sensor and then just screw in my 67 oil pressures gauge line into that fitting?

3. I'm also installing the 4L60e Trans into my 67 behind the LM7 and I want to keep my original speedometer, I've searched up mechanical speedometer kits for the later 2pc bellhousing/Trans style 4l60e and the only thing I've been able to find is an adapter bracket that allows you to use a 700r/early 4l60 tailshaft housing on the newer 4l60, are there any better alternatives then that, for example just removing the speed sensor from the Trans and installing a driven gear for the speedo cable?

4. I want to run a mid length header that has a decent thick flange, isn't a pain in the ass to remove spark plugs and has the ball/socket end. What are you guys running that's similar to my wants and doesn't require heavy mods to the frame rails? And also what motor mounts are you using with those headers?

5. What's the best way to remove broken exhaust manifold bolts from the aluminum heads? When I bought my motor the front driver bolt and rear driver bolt were already broke off in the heads, and there isn't any part of the broken stud that protrudes out of the hole. I have a welder and was contemplating welding a bolt on the stud and trying to remove it that way

6. What's the best tranny controller for the 4l60e?

7. What's a good shift linkage/cable to use on the 4l60e and on the stock tilt column in my 67?


(I'm not running the original computer and harness for the motor and Trans)

[ls1nova71]

Thats a lot of questions for one post, and youll get many different responses, but here's what I have done.

1 Remove the plug from the right rear head and drill and tap it for the stock sender. It's not as hard as it sounds as long as the engine isn't in the truck. Others have tried different senders with varing degrees of accuracy. You know the factory one will work with the factory gauge.

2 They make a fitting for this, but you can break off the plastic part of the sender and drill and tap the aluminum part for free if you have the drill and tap.

3 Cable-X ot the new Dakota Digital boxes are the easies thing to do, but I have had bad luck with some of them in the past. I have a thread on converting the stock speedo to electric using a 96 S10 speedo if you are the do-it-yourself type.

4. I have Doug Thorley headers on my blazer and they fit great. There are cheaper options, but I have no experience with them.

5. Welding a nut over the broken bolt works the best. You may have to weld directly on top of the broken part before putting the nut over it to build it up some, but the weld wont stick to the aluminum so it's not that hard to do.

6. Dont know why you aren't using the factory PCM, but its the best trans contriller in my opinion.

7. Lokar makes a nice shift linkage, but if you can weld, the factory linkage works with just a little modification.

Hope this helps. Im sure youll get a lot of other ideas too. You can see most of what I just said in my two build threads in my sig. The rusty truck is probably more in depth..

[67chevy1series]

Thank you! I'm also not running the stock intake on the motor either I'm going with a different intake and system

[ls1nova71]

So what are you going with? Carburetor? Because that will change things.

[MalibuSSwagon]

For the temp sender, I turned down my stock sender using a drill and flat file until it was the right size, then tapped it for 12x1.5 mm, and screwed it into the passenger side head. Works great.

Oil pressure sender, I went the easy way. Autometer 2268, adapts the oil pressure port to 1/8" NPT so you can screw in your stock sender or line. $12 shipped on ebay.

[65standard]

Some good information for my own LS project.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

For the temp sender, I turned down my stock sender using a drill and flat file until it was the right size, then tapped it for 12x1.5 mm, and screwed it into the passenger side head. Works great.

I assume you have a newer truck? Possibly a square body? They have smaller temp senders which can be turned down to the correct size, however, the 67-72's are way too big and if you try to turn it down small enough, you will run out of meat on the sender. Others have tried the turned down square body sender, but then the gauge isn't as accurate. You're right though, works great on the newer stuff.

[67chevy1series]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

So what are you going with? Carburetor? Because that will change things.

As of now I will run a carburetor on it and later on down the road I will end up running the Holley dominator EFI set up.

(May be foolish of me not to take advantage of the stock fuel injection system of these LS motors as I can even agree they are very nice and functiom really well, But i like the way these LS motors look when they are either carbureted or with a "throttle body" style fuel injection so that's the route I'm taking)

[Vandals909]

check out post #63, his whole thread is a good resource for part numbers.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...hose%2C&page=3

[67chevy1series]

I know the LS motors need a steam port, is it possible to use the factory truck steam port hardliners that connect to the heads and run a hose to the radiator in my 67? My radiator has both upper and lower radiator hose ports, both tranny cooler line ports and it also has a hole for a heater hose which is threaded with a plug right now, it's also fairly high up on the radiator which is good for the steam port correct?

[BR3W CITY]

You can use the stock steam crossover tubes, and plumb them into that port on your radiator as long as its the high point (or on the suction side of flow). You can also plumb it drect to the water pump, or into the heater core (I would suggest against that, but have done it myself in the past, there are certain "what if" situations when it might be less than ideal).

[ls1nova71]

You can use the heater hose location on the radiator, you just have to find some fittings to fit it. I was always under the impression it needed to be the highest point on the radiator, but if you look at a 99-06 truck, its kind of in the middle between the trans cooler lines similar to where your heater hose location is. You will be fine this way.

[67chevy1series]

Awesome, thanks guys! Always good to have a confirmation

[juddss]

I have removed several broken studs from these heads at work. The best way I find is to weld enough slag to grab ahold of it with an easy out or a pair of vise grips. It may take several tries but It works best for me. Welding a nut on the end sounds great but seems too difficult to me. It seems hard to get a good weld to the stud, they always seem to break off.

[67chevy1series]

If I'm using the stock column mounted neutral safety switch on my 67 will I need the neutral safety switch on the shift selector of the 4l60e? Especially since I'm not running stock GM fuel injection.

[67chevy1series]

Originally Posted by juddss

I have removed several broken studs from these heads at work. The best way I find is to weld enough slag to grab ahold of it with an easy out or a pair of vise grips. It may take several tries but It works best for me. Welding a nut on the end sounds great but seems too difficult to me. It seems hard to get a good weld to the stud, they always seem to break off.

Probably have to really burn it in and get it nice and hot im guessing?

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

If I'm using the stock column mounted neutral safety switch on my 67 will I need the neutral safety switch on the shift selector of the 4l60e? Especially since I'm not running stock GM fuel injection.

No, you wont need it, although it is a better more accurate switch. Column mounted switches can get slop in the linkage and when you put 4 speed transmissions in place of 3 speeds the detents can sometimes be off enough to make them hard to adjust correctly.

[67chevy1series]

Very good point! When I bought my 4l60 it was in really good shape but that neutral saftey switch had the plastic "housing" or "cover" of the switch broken, and is destroyed.

[zach_carver]

Wow this helped me. I'm trying debate this right now wether to do. LS install in my 65 c10 or not.

[67chevy1series]

Originally Posted by zach_carver

Wow this helped me. I'm trying debate this right now wether to do. LS install in my 65 c10 or not.

I'm right there with you, I've got a 5.3/4l60e and I just pulled my 383/5spd from my 67 yesterday, getting ready to start gathering swap parts like motor mounts and oil pan to put the motor in. You can keep the stock truck pan but it's going to hang 1-1/2" + or - a 1/2 inch below the crossmember.


What headers are you guys running on your 63-87 c10's? Looking for something with some decent size primaries and a nice thick flange. Was thinking of running 2-1/2 maybe at the most 3" pipe to the muffler and after. Also how is your clearence for removing spark plugs and installing/removing the bolts to the heads?

[zach_carver]

Idk what kinda headers to run, but from what ive gathered trailblazer SS manifolds seem to be a good fit. A lot better price then headers also.

[BR3W CITY]

TBSS headers are the fit-all for most trucks. They will hold you back vs longtubes/midtubes if you start doing big heads, nitrous, or a blower. For most swaps and mild mods, they work well.

[67chevy1series]

Well... I managed to get one of those broken exhaust manifold bolts like Juddss was saying.... But the other one won't budge, I'm welding it exactly the same way I did the first one but the welds keep breaking off the broken stud... I'm starting to loose my cool on that unholy bastard... I don't know what I can do to get that weld to burn in stronger to the stud, I've already cleaned the grounds as best as I can but after 39 tries still nothing.

[MalibuSSwagon]

I had that issue on one head, tried everything to get the stud out and eventually I couldn't tell between stud and head. So I swapped heads, happened to have a few more lying around with no broken studs in them.

[BR3W CITY]

Try heating the area with a torch. It'll help preheat on the weld, and should make backing the stud out easier.