A-arms on stock front member

[Vandals909]

What are the good options for a-arms on a stock front member? Would like to run 20's front and rear and be as low as an ECE 4/6 drop. Of course want it to handle better also.

I like the ride tech coil over kit just so much more $$$ then I want to spend at the moment

[bbbc10]

Arms are gonna be around 1100 for pb fab that uses coil spring, cpp also has some an djm has some arms but I would stay away from them

[Vandals909]

Why is one preferred over the other? Anyone speak from experience ?

[BossHogg69]

If you're doing a 4/6 drop and stock crossmember, there is no real reason you need aftermarket arms unless you just want the look. You'll be better off focusing on replacing the balljoints, tie rods, bushings, getting a sway bar and some nice shocks than the 'bling' of aftermarket control arms. And yes, I do have CPP tubular arms (they are nice), and Hotchkis springs, along with double adjustable CA Chassisworks shocks. The arms are nice, but they aren't a 'must' by any means for a good handling, street driven truck.

I'm running 19's front & rear with a 5/7.5 drop if that matters.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Vandals909

Why is one preferred over the other? Anyone speak from experience ?

Some are preferred over others because of improved geometry, materials, & benefits vs just being a tubular arm based on OE geometry.

DJM arms are a copy of OE w/a drop pocket for lowering. They make the already compromised scrubline on a lowered C10 worse. I would avoid them.

CPP makes tubular arms that improve geometry & provide better ground clearance as the bushings are no larger than the barrel they fit in. I'm not sure what the bushing material is as the description lists it as "self lubricating, non-squeak, patented plastic". Stock or aftermarket sway bars are compatible. They offer coil specific or bag specific options & they're about $850 or so for uppers/lowers.

Porterbuilt arms improve geometry & they have choices such as altering the wheel base 1" forward and/or narrowing track width. They can be used w/coils or bags (coils require a bolt-on adapter that's extra). The PB arms also require a spec'd sway bar vs any C10 aftermarket bar. They utilize Delrin bushings & are greaseable for maintenance which I like (I don't beleive any claim of squeak free hard plastic/urethane bushings). last I saw PB's were going for around $1,100 but vendors runs sales on them so they can be found for varying prices.

There's the Ride Tech units that work w/bags or the Coil-Over spec'd arms. Which one's you choose decide what supporting gear you'll need & the associated costs.

Don't forget about Hotchkis either..... I really like their products but if cost is a factor.....

[72 k10]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Some are preferred over others because of improved geometry, materials, & benefits vs just being a tubular arm based on OE geometry.

DJM arms are a copy of OE w/a drop pocket for lowering. They make the already compromised scrubline on a lowered C10 worse. I would avoid them.

CPP makes tubular arms that improve geometry & provide better ground clearance as the bushings are no larger than the barrel they fit in. I'm not sure what the bushing material is as the description lists it as "self lubricating, non-squeak, patented plastic". Stock or aftermarket sway bars are compatible. They offer coil specific or bag specific options & they're about $850 or so for uppers/lowers.

Porterbuilt arms improve geometry & they have choices such as altering the wheel base 1" forward and/or narrowing track width. They can be used w/coils or bags (coils require a bolt-on adapter that's extra). The PB arms also require a spec'd sway bar vs any C10 aftermarket bar. They utilize Delrin bushings & are greaseable for maintenance which I like (I don't beleive any claim of squeak free hard plastic/urethane bushings). last I saw PB's were going for around $1,100 but vendors runs sales on them so they can be found for varying prices.

There's the Ride Tech units that work w/bags or the Coil-Over spec'd arms. Which one's you choose decide what supporting gear you'll need & the associated costs.

Don't forget about Hotchkis either..... I really like their products but if cost is a factor.....

scoti what do you mean by scrub line ? the seam under the doors?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 72 k10

scoti what do you mean by scrub line ? the seam under the doors?

Scrubline is anything that can hit the ground below the wheel lip. Imagine a string pulled tightly from the front left to front right @ the outer edge of the wheel. That would be considered the scrubline. Anything below that imaginary line can contact the ground & cause damage and/or loss of control of the vehicle.

It is always advised not to allow anything to hang below that line. The rear end is the same thing. Anything below the lips of the wheels is possible trouble if it hits the ground (blow-out, object in the roadway, etc...).

[Vandals909]

Thanks for all of the responses.

The idea of centering the wheel in the wheel well sounds like a great idea. Also thinkin the better geometry offered would help reduce the amount of shims currently on the arm to get it aligned.

Is porterbuilt the only one that centers the wheel?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Vandals909

Thanks for all of the responses.

The idea of centering the wheel in the wheel well sounds like a great idea. Also thinkin the better geometry offered would help reduce the amount of shims currently on the arm to get it aligned.

Is porterbuilt the only one that centers the wheel?

I believe Ride Tech built theirs to center the wheel. I KNOW PB offers arms that move things forward 1" which is about the best place to start. Some trucks that are even lower benefit from a little more forward (1.25 - 1.5") but that's when you're in frame draggin territory.

[Vandals909]

Who's got the best deal on ridetech coilover kits?

[SCOTI]

Google their dealers to see.

[BossHogg69]

It's kind of hit or miss with the RideTech kit centering the wheels in the wheelwells. They never mention building the kit to move the wheels forward, and in the thread below, it's kind of hit or miss where the wheels line up. In the first few shots, the wheels definitely look farther back to me, but in the shot of the yellow truck, they look centered.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=597074&page=4

[PBFAB.COM]

We have a bunch of forum members that run our control arms on factory crossmembers, but here is a more recent one: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=605736

There are some detailed pics of the install and of the wheel placement before and after. He is running the narrowed and forward version.

Feel free to send us an email with any specific questions you have! We would be happy to provide you with any information you are looking for.

Sales@pbfab.com

Thanks!
Nate

[RodsGreen10]

Stock crossmember and 1" forward and 1" narrow are Tha **** on my stock front member. Works like a charm no issues at all. PB is top notch with the tech and design plus customer service is tops in my book. I have had DJM control arms aka JUNK. I also have ran CPP better than DJM. But PB takes the crown IMO. I wish I would have gone PB to begin with and saved my ass a bunch off $$$. You get more caster and pulls the wheel in a inch best of both worlds. Straight bolt on no issues.

[Vandals909]

I'm hoping someone from ridetech will chime in on the center of the wheel? Is the ridetech arm also narrower? What's the advantage to the narrow arm?

Pbfab, sent your guy an email

[RodsGreen10]

Originally Posted by Vandals909

I'm hoping someone from ridetech will chime in on the center of the wheel? Is the ridetech arm also narrower? What's the advantage to the narrow arm?

Pbfab, sent your guy an email

Narrow helps with big wheels and getting lower for turning. That is what it did for me. I had a 6.5" drop on the front with 22" wheels I had to roll the inner fender about .5". But with the PB arms being pulled in 1" I dropped it another inch and no rubbing issue. So now I am at 7.5" drop in the front no rub with 22" wheel. And centering the wheel is just a added bonus.

IMO don't waste your time or money on the others. You will be happy with PB arms. I looked at ridetech also but all the positive on PB from this forum and the quality and craftsmanship plus the down to earth people Nate and Dave it was a no brainier for me.

[RodsGreen10]

Also when you get the PB arms get the front shock relocators they are awesome and help the angle of the shock which in turn provides better ride. And prevents the old shock stud from cracking your frame.

[Vandals909]

Thanks everyone.

What spindle and drop spring works best with the porterbuilt narrow and forward arms on a stock member if I want to run 20's on the front on my 71

[RodsGreen10]

That would be more of a brand preference. Cause they will bolt up just like stock. I like WC and CPP. But that's just me. PB carries CPP so you could do a one stop shop with PB.

[Vandals909]

Here is some good info from porterbuilt. I asked if I got arms and decided later when money permits will running a drop member be an issue.


"If your plan is to run a Dropmember in the future you will need to stay with the standard or 1" narrowed control arms. We move the wheel 1" forward with our cross member so the forward arm will move the wheel to far forward. "