show me your rod throttle to DBC setups

[americanmusc1e]

My 70 has the original "rod" accelerator pedal that i need to operate the DBC throttle body on my 5.3.

I picked up a factory throttle cable out of a 2001 silverado thinking I could use it, but I don't see any way of making this work without converting to a 71-72 cable throttle.

Converting to DBW isn't really an option for me because I'm using Megasquirt instead of the GM PCM. My engine is also set pretty far back against the firewall.

[ls1nova71]

Is there a reason you dont want to convert it to a 71-72 pedal? That would be the easiest and cleanest route to go I would think. Then you could mod the Silverado cable to work with it.

[BR3W CITY]

My phone screen cutoff the thread title at "Show me your rod"....Really glad I didn't get a nasty surprise.

[Hart_Rod]

Check this out: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by americanmusc1e

My 70 has the original "rod" accelerator pedal that i need to operate the DBC throttle body on my 5.3.

I picked up a factory throttle cable out of a 2001 silverado thinking I could use it, but I don't see any way of making this work without converting to a 71-72 cable throttle.

Converting to DBW isn't really an option for me because I'm using Megasquirt instead of the GM PCM. My engine is also set pretty far back against the firewall.

I did exactly what you are wanting to do on the Panel Truck and it worked out good. You can use the pedal arm and the Silverado cable that you already have. I will post some pictures and explain what I did this evening.

LockDoc

[LockDoc]

Here is how I made my throttle cable. I used the stock LS cable by modifying it as follows: (1) I cut the swedged on end off of the firewall end of the cable. (2) I removed the cable from the housing. (3) I pulled the round plasitc end off of the housing by twisting and pulling like you were unscrewing it off of the housing. (4) I cut the housing to the correct length with an air cutoff tool and cleaned up the cut end with a small file and wire wheel to remove any burrs. (5) I re-installed the round plastic end. (6) I re-inserted the cable. Cable done! I didn’t want to cut the cable off until I made sure everything was correct. For the rear bracket I drilled a hole and cut a slot for the cable to fit into and drilled two holes in the bracket and the back mounting plate for the fuel rail and bolted it up. I still have to finish trimming the bracket. I had the carburetor stud on hand that fastens to the accelerator pedal arm but they can be purchased on e-Bay and probably other places. Here is a Lokar one that looks pretty nice but it may be too long.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lokar-S-1034...-/221654762770

Another type cable stud:

Amazon.com: JEGS Performance Products 157210...

Here is the type cable stop I used on the cable:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Choke-Cable-...tWCApT&vxp=mtr

Here is a nicer looking one:

http://www.buggiesunlimited.com/prod...FYMDaQod7NkLfw

Maybe this will give you guys some ideas anyway….

LockDoc

[americanmusc1e]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

Is there a reason you dont want to convert it to a 71-72 pedal? That would be the easiest and cleanest route to go I would think. Then you could mod the Silverado cable to work with it.

It's not out entirely. I was hoping to do it cheaper and with parts on hand

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

My phone screen cutoff the thread title at "Show me your rod"....Really glad I didn't get a nasty surprise.

LOL! and you clicked on it anyway

Originally Posted by Hart_Rod

Check this out: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123

All i see is DBW stuff in that thread. I don't think my MS2 supports DBW

[americanmusc1e]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Here is how I made my throttle cable. I used the stock LS cable by modifying it as follows: (1) I cut the swedged on end off of the firewall end of the cable. (2) I removed the cable from the housing. (3) I pulled the round plasitc end off of the housing by twisting and pulling like you were unscrewing it off of the housing. (4) I cut the housing to the correct length with an air cutoff tool and cleaned up the cut end with a small file and wire wheel to remove any burrs. (5) I re-installed the round plastic end. (6) I re-inserted the cable. Cable done! I didn’t want to cut the cable off until I made sure everything was correct. For the rear bracket I drilled a hole and cut a slot for the cable to fit into and drilled two holes in the bracket and the back mounting plate for the fuel rail and bolted it up. I still have to finish trimming the bracket. I had the carburetor stud on hand that fastens to the accelerator pedal arm but they can be purchased on e-Bay and probably other places. Here is a Lokar one that looks pretty nice but it may be too long.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lokar-S-1034...-/221654762770

Another type cable stud:

Amazon.com: JEGS Performance Products 157210 Throttle Linkage Cable Adapter Stud Kit: Automotive


Here is the type cable stop I used on the cable:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Choke-Cable-...tWCApT&vxp=mtr

Here is a nicer looking one:

http://www.buggiesunlimited.com/prod...FYMDaQod7NkLfw

Maybe this will give you guys some ideas anyway….

LockDoc

LockDock that is brilliant! going to try to see if I have enough room between the firewall and engine to do that. if not, I guess I'll convert to the cable throttle.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by americanmusc1e

LOL! and you clicked on it anyway

Hey it sure beats what the "show what ya got" thread could potentially contain....