Am I missing something or am I just an idiot?

[Modest_Man]

I just got a set of the reproduction sport mirrors. The screws will not physically fit into the bracket. They will shear off before screwing in.

Am I just being stupid? I figured these would be an easy "plug and play" thing. Sandwich mirror and bracket around door and screw together.

Was I sent the wrong screws? I know lots of you guys have used these reproduction sport mirrors and I'm wondering if these are the normal screws? I may have to drill out the holes a bit and find someone to weld a nut onto the back of the mounting brackets and pick up some new hardware, which was more work than I was expecting.

[leddzepp]

I would just take the backing plate to Home Depot or lowes and get some stainless screws that fit.

[Andy4639]

These go inside the door and you will never see them right. I would get bolts with counter sunk heads and bolt them in. The bolts will stay tighter and never come loose from people bumping into them once installed. Just my opinion though.

[jdw]

I don't see how the counter sunk heads on those screws make any sense in the picture. I'd just go get the right screws.

[72farmer]

No you are not a idiot.I just installed mine on my 72 and I had the same problem.I kept screwing them in a little and then backed them out.I was very afraid I would shear mine off too.Or jab a hole in my hand with the Phillips head screwdriver.

[Grumpy old man]

Ahhh ! Good old stainless , Run some steel screws thru the bracket to cut the threads before you install them . Stainless seems to be weaker and I've had them twist off many times before .Cutting the threads with steel first helps alleviate this problem and makes any stainless screw install much easier . Or just drill the holes out and hit your local Lowes and buy some 10x24 stainless machine screws and nyloc nuts . the stainless screws at most home stores are flat countersunk phillips head But You can find the phillips oval head stainless at Ace hardware .

[Grumpy old man]

I like Mane's truck parts descriptions on the supplied hardware .

http://www.manestruckparts.com/store...Category_ID=17

[Kennuck]

I threaded mine with a tap and then used SS Machine screws.

[joeydurango]

x2 on having had this issue with these mirrors. I did what Grumpy suggested above and, before installation, ran some steel screws through the backing plate to free up those threads.

[special-K]

Stainless is known for being soft, And these days, with poor manufacturing by the "new guy" having little quality control, now more than ever you need to chase threads down with a harder material first. The screw size is correct, is supposed to go in snug, and the next size down will be too small, and weaker for holding the mirror even if it did fit. There would also be an issue with size of screw head vs size of countersunk hole in mirror

[chiefcfd]

Yep x'3. Had the same problem. Did the steel screw trick. The really hard trick is installing it by yourself!

[REEDS 72]

Flip it over and give it a try.

[Modest_Man]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Ahhh ! Good old stainless , Run some steel screws thru the bracket to cut the threads before you install them . Stainless seems to be weaker and I've had them twist off many times before .Cutting the threads with steel first helps alleviate this problem and makes any stainless screw install much easier . Or just drill the holes out and hit your local Lowes and buy some 10x24 stainless machine screws and nyloc nuts . the stainless screws at most home stores are flat countersunk phillips head But You can find the phillips oval head stainless at Ace hardware .

Glad I'm not just an idiot. I will definitely go this route and drill the holes out and use nyloc nuts.

Thanks for the tips all.

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

I like Mane's truck parts descriptions on the supplied hardware .

http://www.manestruckparts.com/store...Category_ID=17

"Throw away the screws..."

That's honesty at it's finest!



Gary

[Grumpy old man]

There's not one person who hasn't had this type of problem to deal with at some point in a build /project truck . There are many guys in here who just dealt with these issues 50 years or more ago before computers and web sites with specific year model information available in seconds at your fingertips and web sites full of parts . Try building one of these or any truck/muscle car without all the modern conveniences we have available today just your trusty old tool box the local junkyards a yellow pages book and the kitchen phone hanging on the wall with a 4' cord . No Craigslist, no internet, no battery operated anything ,Just corded drills /gas torches and arc welders . I was lucky enough to grow up around guys like Les Dunham and see his designs in progress before I could drive myself .my father built many of his custom designed car/truck interiors . remember it's only a piece of metal until you drive it down the road ,We all had to learn these small helpful tricks from someone who has dealt with it before . There are no stupid questions .

http://dunhamcoach.com/home.htm

[davepl]

Random tip of the day that I was reminded of by GOM above: stainless fasteners are NOT anywhere near as strong as steel. If you need shiny and strong, you need chrome plated Grade 8 (or even chrome plated grade 5).

That's for bolts, not screws, but was part of the problem here I think.

[jdw]

I think for the locale stainless will last longer unless it's sealed from the elements, but it's no good for threading. Rust is your enemy here, and you're definitely going to want the screws to strip before some joker grabs your mirror and jacks the sheet metal out of whack. Also, upon closer inspection it appears the holes are countersunk and that backing plate is upside down. Is that true?

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

There's not one person who hasn't had this type of problem to deal with at some point in a build /project truck . There are many guys in here who just dealt with these issues 50 years or more ago before computers and web sites with specific year model information available in seconds at your fingertips and web sites full of parts . Try building one of these or any truck/muscle car without all the modern conveniences we have available today just your trusty old tool box the local junkyards a yellow pages book and the kitchen phone hanging on the wall with a 4' cord . No Craigslist, no internet, no battery operated anything ,Just corded drills /gas torches and arc welders . I was lucky enough to grow up around guys like Les Dunham and see his designs in progress before I could drive myself .my father built many of his custom designed car/truck interiors . remember it's only a piece of metal until you drive it down the road ,We all had to learn these small helpful tricks from someone who has dealt with it before . There are no stupid questions .

http://dunhamcoach.com/home.htm

This ^^^ 99.9% The .1% is held aside... because I do not subscribe to the "no stupid questions" theory.

Back when parts you couldn't find in the brick and mortar shop were ordered over the telephone and sent C.O.D., and you wrote the delivery driver a check. Boy times have changed.

Gary

[67ChevyRedneck]

Not that it really makes a big difference... But you are screwing them in "backwards".

[lovemy71s]

same problem for me but like said above. turn plate around and they will go right in. I just did them on my 71 gmc k-10 and had a hell of a time till I asked myself if I was dumb then sat back with a beer and thought about it then boom it came to me, turn the plate around and they go right in.
I love six pack projects

[swamp rat]

Per the wrong screw question, I'm assuming the countersunk heads are a proper fit for the mirror arms? if not then look into that.

Yep you are screwing ther screws in from the back side not the front.

You could check into machine screws as mentioned above, then buy the proper size tap and tap the holes before install.

I agree stainless is weaker.

[Lattimer]

It usually inexperience, not stupidity. Stupidity is when you learn the answer, and screw it up again the next time.....

I've learned a ton of little tricks along the way, most of them from working with my dad when he was alive. No shame in not knowing. None of us know everything.

[bronze 72 super]

I just put the original Sport Mirrors back on my '71 the screws go though the mirror and hold the bracket on. This bracket is backwards, lip goes towards the inside of the door.

[special-K]

Stainless is plenty strong for holding a mirror on. What the steel screw is about is chasing the threads down first to make way for the stainless.

As for the original question, "Am I missing something or am I just an idiot?". Yes, you are missing one good screw to replace the broken one with. I don't know if you're 'just' an idiot or not. Could be coupled with other issues as well...DOH! I guess an IQ test would be about the only real way to know for sure. Never go by the opinions of those not qualified to assess such things. That includes you.

[Davidf]

SS is plenty strong, but galls easily. Steel or stainless, you should lubricate the treads when first installing screws. Doing so work fine for me when installing mirrors. I used a sacrificial screw to pre-thread holes