Clutch questions

[YukonXL04]

Hey Guys, So I have a 1950 Chevy 3100. Sometime in the early 90s it was rebuilt. That includes a 1954 235 from a car. Finally got it road worthy but Im having some clutch issues. It has the 3 on the tree manual and torque tube rear end.

When we first took it out the first couple of miles it shifted great. Then the clutch started slipping, at low RPM's it would grab okay but anything over 1200 or so it would just slip. So I tried adjusting the clutch linkage but that didnt do anything good. So Im wondering before I spring for a new clutch if there is something else I can look into?

It holds good for 1st gear and reverse but not for 2nd or 3rd. The clutch releases great, but when you let off the clutch to re engage it grabs a little but not all the way. Wondering if there isn't a pressure plate issue. Im not smelling burning clutch though

Also if I do have to spring for a new clutch any tell tale signs to figure out which diameter clutch you have before removing the whole transmission?

Its a 1954 235 from a car, the trans best I can tell is the one that came with the truck. It was awesome driving this thing for the first time but it was a bummer cause I couldnt get over about 20 mph lol

Thanks alot!

[paulspickupparts]

If you have adjusted your clutch and still have the problems mentioned chances are you clutch has lived its live. Over the years the clutch disc has probably worn and become thinner which will contribute to you clutch slipping. Also over the years the clutch springs in your pressure plate could also be on the weak side . It takes a lot more torque to move your truck in second and third gear and thus why it slips more in those gears than first. Its not a big job to replace but the torque tube will make it a little harder. Because it is a three speed and a much smaller lighter transmission that will make it easier. You may want to have your flywheel turned if you replace your clutch. Check the ring gear while you have it out. Replace the throw out bearing.

Before you do anything you can removed the clutch inspection cover on the bottom of the transmission and take a peek.

[mr48chev]

From experience if it doesn't have the cover on the bottom of the bellhousing and the clutch and flywheel are out in the open gravel can get thrown up inside the diaphragm and keep the clutch from engaging. Five miles of freshly chip sealed road did that to me on the way home from a road trip years

I'd go along with Paul in that it may be just flat worn out though.

[YukonXL04]

Thanks a lot for the info, That's what I was figuring. I just wasn't sure if I was missing something. It does have the inspection cover, and I did remove it to look at it. It look decent under there, better than the rest of the underside of the truck lol.

I cant figure a way to measure the clutch with it installed so I guess I will pull it and take it to the parts house.
This truck has sat for the past 15 years untouched.

I noticed reading up that some came with a 9 1/8" and some with a 10.75" in my year, the 9 1/8" has 6 flywheel bolts and the 10.75" has 9. This is for the 1950 model year.

Im pretty sure mine has 6 bolts. But knowing the motor came from a 54 car I looked it up and there is a 9 1/8" 6 bolt and a 10" 6 bolt option.

It looks like the flywheel is pretty much the same for both applications so Im not seeing a way to decipher which clutch I have without removing it.

Im assuming the 9 1/8" for a 50 truck and a 54 car are the same clutch, but would the 10" 54 car clutch work regardless which on I have as they probably use the same flywheel right?

[paulspickupparts]

It should be a 9 inch but because your truck is a mix of a different engine you never know what you will find. Rather than try to guess at the right size I would pull it and take the parts with when you buy the new. Compare eveything to the ones you took out. If you order online it is still nice to know what you have. Many years have went by since new and these trucks are often a mismatch of a lot of different parts.