The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > General Truck Forums > Engine & Drivetrain > LSx Swaps

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-23-2016, 08:40 PM   #1
Nodnarb76
Registered User
 
Nodnarb76's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 501
Torque Converter lockup wiring question.

I'm in the middle of my LQ4/4L80E swap, and my instructions that come with my standalone harness states in needs 12 volts input from my brake pedal.
does this mean 12v when the pedal is pressed in or 12v when my foot is off the pedal?
I know older cars (including my 87 Suburban) are 12v when your foot is off the pedal and goes to no volts when the peal is pressed in.
Attached Images
 
__________________


1987 R20 Suburban LQ4/4L80e swap: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=693824
Nodnarb76 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2016, 08:52 PM   #2
clinebarger
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 6,370
Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nodnarb76 View Post
I know older cars (including my 87 Suburban) are 12v when your foot is off the pedal and goes to no volts when the peal is pressed in.
This is correct for all Gen III engines/PCM's.
clinebarger is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2016, 08:54 PM   #3
aknovaman
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tecumseh
Posts: 355
Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.

It depends on which pcm you are using for early and late engines. Early ls1 style (24x) engines need 12 volts removed with brakes applued. Later e38 (58x) ecu need 12 volts applied with the brakes applied.
__________________
Current project 1959 Willys = GEZR TRUK
Geezer is a Latin compound word made up of two roots.
Gee meaning Urine Stain and Zer meaning your pants are open!
FMCDH GBU and GBA
http://www.youtube.com/user/aknovaman/videos
aknovaman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2016, 10:08 PM   #4
Nodnarb76
Registered User
 
Nodnarb76's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 501
Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.

My motor/PCM is from a 2004. so I need zero volts when my foot is off the pedal, 12v when I'm pressing the brakes right?
__________________


1987 R20 Suburban LQ4/4L80e swap: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=693824
Nodnarb76 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2016, 10:13 PM   #5
aknovaman
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Tecumseh
Posts: 355
Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.

Nope. Use a 4 pin gm switch from a 1990's s10. Two terminals for brake lights. Connect other terminal to switched ignition. Last terminal to purple tcc wire on pcm.
__________________
Current project 1959 Willys = GEZR TRUK
Geezer is a Latin compound word made up of two roots.
Gee meaning Urine Stain and Zer meaning your pants are open!
FMCDH GBU and GBA
http://www.youtube.com/user/aknovaman/videos
aknovaman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2016, 11:35 PM   #6
ls1nova71
Registered User
 
ls1nova71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Independence Mo
Posts: 4,119
Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nodnarb76 View Post
My motor/PCM is from a 2004. so I need zero volts when my foot is off the pedal, 12v when I'm pressing the brakes right?
Technically on an '04 you'll need both. Pin 33 (purple wire) on the C1 connector (blue one) will need 12v when the pedal is not depressed, and pin 6 (light blue wire) on the TAC module plug needs 12v when the pedal is depressed. Your truck should already have the right brake pedal switch with the two sets of connections on it unless it didn't have factory cruise control, which I would think would be odd on a fairly loaded suburban.
__________________
My '72 short bed build. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...6-0-4l80e.html

5.3 swap into my RUSTY '71 C10
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...71-c-10-a.html
ls1nova71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2016, 11:41 PM   #7
Nodnarb76
Registered User
 
Nodnarb76's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 501
Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aknovaman View Post
Nope. Use a 4 pin gm switch from a 1990's s10. Two terminals for brake lights. Connect other terminal to switched ignition. Last terminal to purple tcc wire on pcm.
is this the switch you are talking about?
My existing brake switch has connectors for cruise control that I won't need, could I use those, or would you recommend getting one from an S-10?
Attached Images
 
__________________


1987 R20 Suburban LQ4/4L80e swap: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=693824
Nodnarb76 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2016, 11:43 PM   #8
Nodnarb76
Registered User
 
Nodnarb76's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 501
Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.

For what it's worth, this is what mine currently has.
Attached Images
 
__________________


1987 R20 Suburban LQ4/4L80e swap: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=693824
Nodnarb76 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2016, 12:12 AM   #9
ls1nova71
Registered User
 
ls1nova71's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Independence Mo
Posts: 4,119
Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nodnarb76 View Post
For what it's worth, this is what mine currently has.
That is the one you need. And just an FYI, since your truck has cruise already, it's only three more wires to hook up to make it work on the LQ4.....
__________________
My '72 short bed build. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...6-0-4l80e.html

5.3 swap into my RUSTY '71 C10
http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...71-c-10-a.html
ls1nova71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-24-2016, 02:15 AM   #10
tinos555
Account Suspended
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Seaside
Posts: 69
Re: Torque Converter lockup wiring question.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ls1nova71 View Post
Technically on an '04 you'll need both. Pin 33 (purple wire) on the C1 connector (blue one) will need 12v when the pedal is not depressed, and pin 6 (light blue wire) on the TAC module plug needs 12v when the pedal is depressed. Your truck should already have the right brake pedal switch with the two sets of connections on it unless it didn't have factory cruise control, which I would think would be odd on a fairly loaded suburban.
Do you have to use pin 6 (light blue wire) even when not using cruise control?
tinos555 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com