In Bed gas filler issue

[Orence1]

Putting together the oak bed in my 72 LWB. Using the LMC tank with the center fill neck. My issue is the clearance from the bottom of the bed board to the filler neck. In the picture you can see the dimensions. I have 3/4" (Arrow B) from the top of the filler neck to the bottom of the board, 1 1/2" (Arrow C) from the top of the filler neck to the top of the board and 3 1/2" (Arrow A) from the top of the tank to the top of the board. I originally was going to use the round marine style filler that had a screw in insert that you use the key to open. Not enough clearance for that. My current thinking is to install a billet flip up fuel door and cut a hole in the board above the filler neck. Where I am stumped is to how to set up a gas cap with the clearance issues I have. I have seen some pictures of wood beds with a similar set-up but they all show the flip up door and no close ups of what is inside the door. If any of you have any ideas as to how to set up a gas cap of some sort I would be grateful for some direction. Thanks in advance.

[Dustytrix]

I think measurement c will work, do you have the filler cap that you are thinking about using?

[Dustytrix]

The cool cap that I have is 3" and you could cut some of the length off if needed.

[Orence1]

This is the unit I originally thought would work. It is too long right now. If I were to cut it down, attach a fuel hose to the tank neck with a hose clamp and then pushed the end of the unit into the fuel hose I have one problem. How do I clamp the top of the hose to the filler unit when it is under the bed board. I don't think there is enough room between the tank top and the board bottoms to get to a hose clamp. Were you thinking about using this unit inside a flip up fuel door? I would very much to hear some further thoughts on making this unit work. Thanks for any help.

[Robznob11]

Question does it slide into the spout on the tank or will it? If so could you use some type of gromet or o ring to seal it and reside on the 3 screws to hold it in place? Or maybe weld threads and make it a screw together setup .

[Orence1]

Thanks so much for engaging with me. Unfortunately, both the tank filler neck and the neck on the filler unit are both 1 1/2". Sure would be easier if one or the other were oversize. Do you have this set-up on your truck? How did you solve the some of the same issues?

[30 a truck]

Can either one or both be cut off? Can either one be carried to a muffler shop & stretched? Can they be cut & welded together at the correct height? Just asking because it looks like I might have the same problem, once I get that far along.

Lynn

[Robznob11]

I don't have the same set up. Mine exits out the side through frame. I have seen a few hinge one board to flip up exposing the filler under. Extra work and cost but best option because you're bed floor is clean show quality. I'm going to hinge mine so I can also be change the pump etc. But I'm also not looking for show quality and running a bed cover.

[Steve Cole]

I have a very similar setup. You will have to cut down both pieces in order to get the rubber fuel hose on.


You can see in the pic, the filler neck only needs to be 1" or so long, same for the "cap" that goes through the bed. You can also put spacers between the tank mounting flanges and the frame to give a little more room. Take the fuel hose and seat it all the way against the tank and secure with a hose clamp. Get it tight! Then slide the second hose clamp (for the cap) onto the hose and tighten it just enough so it will stay where you want it and still allow the cap to go into the hose. Bolt the tank into place and install the cap through the bed wood, into the hose. The two metal pieces should almost touch inside the fuel hose. I have a stepper so this may or may not work on a fleet side but I jacked up the rear end and took the left rear tire off and used a long screwdriver to tighten the second clamp, going through the wheel well area. It's very tight and you almost can't see what you are doing but it can be done. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

[Steve Cole]

Here is another pic that might give you and idea how much needs to be trimmed off the cap. Notice the fuel hose, this is an older pic, I think I ended up making the fuel hose even shorter.

[Steve Cole]

One more, for length reference.

[rcazwillis]

Originally Posted by Orence1

How do I clamp the top of the hose to the filler unit when it is under the bed board.

Could you remove one board to either side of the board that will hold the filler. Then reach under the board to tighten the clamps?

[Steve Cole]

Originally Posted by rcazwillis

Could you remove one board to either side of the board that will hold the filler. Then reach under the board to tighten the clamps?

In my case, I could not remove the board on either side because the fuel tank and my roll pan covers a couple of the bolts that hold the bed wood down. In other words, I couldn't access all the bolts to remove and re-install the board.
I ended up going through the wheel well area with a 5/16" socket on a long extension to get to the upper clamp. it is very tight, but it can be done.

[Orence1]

Lots of great replies and suggestions. Many thanks for all the help. I'll start seeing what I can get done.

[Orence1]

Steve Cole,
I considered the cut down option when I got the cool cap and realized the length was an issue. My question to you is how you prevented metal filings/shavings from getting into the tank when you cut the neck down? Turn the tank upside down? Thanks again for taking the time to help.