05-20-2016, 07:28 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Mississippi
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Extending MAF harness
Going to move my air filter and MAF away from the throttle body so hopefully I'll stop getting these P0171 & P0174 codes.
When I do this I'll need to extend the MAF harness. I have been looking to buy an extension harness, but can't find one with the notch cut out on the connector that goes into the MAF. All the ones I've seen on eBay are solid with no notch. Would I do any harm cutting the stock wires and soldering in some wire to move the plug closer to the new MAF location? Thanks for the help!
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1987 R20 Suburban LQ4/4L80e swap: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=693824 |
05-20-2016, 09:21 PM | #2 |
meowMEOWmeowMEOW
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: MKE WI
Posts: 7,128
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Re: Extending MAF harness
I usually do wire extension with a mechanical connector first, then soldier later. You can extend it and test with a mechanical connector first. Be aware, many of these wires that carry 5v, 1.5v, and resistance-based signals are very sensitive; bad solder jobs can actually increase resistance on a circuit from the added mass and lower conductivity of the solder metal itself. (DBW controls are notorious for not liking solder extensions).
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'66 Short Step / SD Tuned / Big Cam LQ4 / Backhalfed /Built 4l80e / #REBUILDEVERYTHING MY BUILD THE H8RDCPTR //\\ MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL REV J HD
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05-20-2016, 10:02 PM | #3 | |
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Re: Extending MAF harness
Quote:
Thanks for the advice!
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1987 R20 Suburban LQ4/4L80e swap: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=693824 |
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05-20-2016, 10:32 PM | #4 |
meowMEOWmeowMEOW
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: MKE WI
Posts: 7,128
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Re: Extending MAF harness
Just get some wire nuts (or do the WU joint), extend the harness, and test it first. If its all the right length, then have someone with electronics repair solder it for you. Its completely doable, just needs to be done right.
Western Union joint A good joint doesn't need much solder and still uses the copper wires in direct contact to carry the signal. Unfortunately what you end up seeing on too many projects is more like this The WU joint is mechanically strong even without solder and tightens if you pull it. The solder is wicking in slightly, but its mainly reinforcing and unifying the outer braids...NOT acting as the main conducting metal and NOT adding significant mass (especially mass of cheap solder).
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'66 Short Step / SD Tuned / Big Cam LQ4 / Backhalfed /Built 4l80e / #REBUILDEVERYTHING MY BUILD THE H8RDCPTR //\\ MY YOUTUBE CHANNEL REV J HD
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05-20-2016, 10:36 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Blue Ridge,GA
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Re: Extending MAF harness
I need to do this too. So I can move my intake as well, I'd like to extend mine if I could.
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1965 C10 LS2/4l70, WHITE, 5/7 DROP LINK TO SUPER SNOOPY C10 BUILD---> http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=689283 1977 C10 SILVERADO HAWAIIAN BLUE, 5/5" DROP, LS6/4L80E 1976 CHEVY K5, 350/350, YUBA GOLD/SADDLE |
05-20-2016, 10:42 PM | #6 |
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Location: Independence Mo
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Re: Extending MAF harness
I've extended them many times without any problems, but then I do know how to solder pretty well. If you can solder it wont be an issue.
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My '72 short bed build. http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conver...6-0-4l80e.html 5.3 swap into my RUSTY '71 C10 http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...71-c-10-a.html |
05-21-2016, 10:49 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Mississippi
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Re: Extending MAF harness
Thanks guys, found the correct extension harness off ebay for $35. going to use that. FWIW, looks like my MAF needs a Type 1 connector with the slot in it.
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1987 R20 Suburban LQ4/4L80e swap: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=693824 |
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