LS Swap mounts - in order of goals

[yeahsee]

I know, I know, not another LS swap mount question, but I have researched this topic a LOT and am still looking for a solid answer. I know you guys can help!

I have read here about ECE, POL, CPP, Dirty Dingo mounts/sliders/perches etc and there is much great info but I am still not solid about my best plan of attack.

I am preparing to swap a 2003 5.3/4l60e into a 1971 SWB C10 which I will keep at stock height. I would like to keep the stock truck oil pan, stock exhaust manifolds and stock AC compressor location. After much reading/searching it appears that all 3 would be an amazing feat so I would rate these in order of importance from high to low.

1 - Keep stock exhaust manifolds
2 - Keep stock truck oil pan
3 - Keep stock AC compressor location

Can anyone suggest the best setup they have used? I would like to pull the trigger on the mounts/plates soon.

If I cant get them all, I would hope I could at least accomplish two of the above goals. As the old song goes, "two outta three aint bad".

All suggestions are appreciated!

[qwik]

I started with a similar goal, but ended abandoning all three.

1. The tbss manifolds are cheap and plentiful.
2.My truck has a 5/7 drop so the truck pan was iffy, at normal ride ht. the truck pan is fine.
3.I think the factory ac bracket is also easily doable, I just elected to do the VA ac with the kwik bracket.

I used the POL mounts and was very pleased, stock driveshaft worked with very little modifications.

[BR3W CITY]

1. Keeping stock exhaust manifolds isn't a good goal, its an actively bad goal. They are too big, aren't great for power, and are paperweights (unless you flip them around with a snail...they are pretty much only good for that). The TBSS is a cheap option, and there are a few steel swap headers that are fairly affordable. More power is never a bad thing, and your gonna end up need to build and exhaust either way...might as well take advantage of it. I totally get keeping costs down and wanting to use factory stuff, but those manifolds are just *ick*

2. The pan clearance can be made to work on an stock height truck. The deepest part of the pan will hang below the xmember, but if its not a rock crawler, that shouldn't really matter with how high these thing are. You'll need to be a little careful on the front-back position of the motor, because you'll still have tight clearance between the pan and the xmember if the motor is far enough forward. Totally doable.

3. A/c clearance is tight but again, doable. Some folks have used the "tweak" method on the upper lip of the frame rail. It can tweak up just a little bit in the 3-5" area where pulley clearance is tight. Its easy enough to do and looks a bit cleaner than notching the frame. If your worried about doing that, don't be, the factory itself put a few "tweaks" on frames to accomodate changing equipment.

[tony2tall]

1. Nothing to add here. But tend to agree with abandoning this one first.
2. Nothing to add here either. Stock would be "ok" when not lowered.
3. Here's the one where I have some, hopefully, valuable input.
I too wanted to utilize the stock Ls compressor so I bought the CPP LS "a/c" adapter plates that are supposed to move the engine forward far enough to use the stock compressor.

I my opinion this caused more issues than it solved. Doug Thorley headers that many others have used without needing to clearence the frame, hit for me. Had to grind the frame.

Also, it moves the engine closer to the radiator and makes routing upper radiator hose and intake more difficult.

Lastly, it still didn't give enough clearence for the LS compressor to be used without notching the frame. And thats what I bought it for!

[yeahsee]

All great info. Thanks guys. Really got me thinking!

[66ChevyMax]

CPP perches will pretty much limit you to Dough Thorley's Headers. They are great but I couldn't find anything else to work at the time.

[PowerdbyChevy79]

we are using mounts from Tejas Steelworks (facebook).. they have adapters that use the original clam shell mounts from a 73-87.. they fit good.. and they keep the truck pan level with the crossmember...

[aggie91]

Originally Posted by PowerdbyChevy79

we are using mounts from Tejas Steelworks (facebook).. they have adapters that use the original clam shell mounts from a 73-87.. they fit good.. and they keep the truck pan level with the crossmember...

I've seen these, they look to be a good option.

[72MARIO]

Originally Posted by aggie91

I've seen these, they look to be a good option.

I would like to see the driveline angles with the engine that high above the crossmember

[72MARIO]

Originally Posted by aggie91

I've seen these, they look to be a good option.

I would like to see the driveline angles with the engine that high above the crossmember

[foamypirate]

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

I would like to see the driveline angles with the engine that high above the crossmember

They are fine, I've got them. You may need to run some pinion shims to set the pumpkin correct, but you should be checking that after the swap, no matter whose mounts you are using.

[solidaxel]

I like the D D sliders, start there install the engine, the rest is a bolt in/on
With the engine in place you will answer the rest of your questions with your wallet!!
I was able to install my original D/shaft in the same location, but I did have to relocate the cross member to the rear with a 4L60E

[Matt Cramer]

I pulled off a swap with the stock oil pan and room for the stock A/C compressor, but used 2010 Camaro exhaust manifolds. I could see the truck manifolds working if you moved the engine way forward, but I wanted to put the motor in the stock location so as to use the stock shift linkage.

[62chevy302]

Originally Posted by Matt Cramer

I pulled off a swap with the stock oil pan and room for the stock A/C compressor, but used 2010 Camaro exhaust manifolds. I could see the truck manifolds working if you moved the engine way forward, but I wanted to put the motor in the stock location so as to use the stock shift linkage.

Which mounts did you use?

[LS short box]

Just keep in mind with the truck pan below the cross member and you are unlucky enough to hit something the pan doesn't dent it breaks and it can crack the block at the bolt mounting holes. Happened to a friend of mine with iron block 6.0. Cracked the block right into a oil galley.Not fun.

[solidaxel]

Sorry wrong post !!!


Is this pump listed at Rock Auto the same as a EP381 as far as fuel presser

is this enough pump for a 5.3

PERFORMANCE ELECTRIC P988K Fuel Pump Module Repair Kit Info

Category: Fuel Pump

$37.79

[truckdude239]

Soild you really need to start a new tread and stop jacking others threads

[solidaxel]

10 - 4.......................... I was on the wrong page !!

[yeahsee]

Hey Matt Cramer,
Which mounts did you use for your swap?

[Matt Cramer]

Originally Posted by yeahsee

Hey Matt Cramer,
Which mounts did you use for your swap?

I made my own and posted some templates for how to copy them: LSX adapter templates

I had to cut the "humps" off the engine stands, flip them upside down, and wend them back in to get it to clear the manifolds. I've heard that using the '73-up stands would clear the manifolds just fine and be considerably less work.