'55 gauge cluster

[Krumenauer]

I am just finishing the restoration on a '55 2nd series truck and am ready to install the gauge cluster (new original). I have been told that with the chrome frame in place, I have to install the gauges/black background, face plastic from the rear. Is this correct or can the whole unit go in from the steering wheel side of the dash? If it has to go in from the rear, I would appreciate any suggestions that you might have on how to do that.

[dwcsr]

They most likely haven't done one before or just like to do things the extraordinarily hard way, You assemble the entire cluster on the bench and install as a unit into the face of the dash not from the rear.

The 1947-55 1st series you put in from the back but they are assembled before you do that.

[Krumenauer]

Thanks for the help. That certainly makes more sense. The reason that I was in doubt is that when I removed the gauges, I was not able to get the entire unit to come out thru the front. Part of the gauge unit housing was just large enough that it hung up on the rear of the opening. I had to remove the 5 screws on the back and then take the unit out thru the rear. However, I just couldn't see GM designing this unit so that it couldn't be installed from the front. Thanks again. Dennis

[OrrieG]

They all hang up at the top when being removed or installed, I use a wood wedge to persuade it out without damaging the paint or chrome bezel. While you have it out think about making a harness with plug. You still need to install the oil tube line, dash lights and amp meter wires but makes it a little easier.

[Krumenauer]

I have already put together and rung out the gauge unit and the associated wiring harness. I bought the dash harness and am building my own on all the other wiring. As much as possible, I have tested everything on the gauge set. However, because of the other info that I had on installing from the back, I damaged the Temp Sensor lead and am waiting for a replacement. Before installing, I will again verify that the temp gauge (boiling water) and the fuel gauge work properly. Thanks for the tip on trying to remove the complete assy from the dash. Dennis

[mcwinery]

thanks for the post. I am trying to remove my cluster and am hesitant about removing it. I don't want to damage the existing gauges. Maybe I just need to use a bit more force to get it started.

[mikebte]

Originally Posted by mcwinery

thanks for the post. I am trying to remove my cluster and am hesitant about removing it. I don't want to damage the existing gauges. Maybe I just need to use a bit more force to get it started.

Just give it a go, sometimes the speedo cable and oil feed line can make it a little stiff, if you brake one of the gauges messing around, let me know. My old one is just sitting and waiting to be parted out to a good home.

[tmoble]

If removiing from a runnin g truck be sure to disconnect the battery first. On mine one of the things that hangs up pulling the cluster out of the dash is the wiring at the back of the amp gauge. That's unfused direct battery current. DIY arc welding anyone?

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

They all hang up at the top when being removed or installed, I use a wood wedge to persuade it out without damaging the paint or chrome bezel. While you have it out think about making a harness with plug. You still need to install the oil tube line, dash lights and amp meter wires but makes it a little easier.

while you have it out, install the plug like orrieg did, it makes it a lot easier to install/remove
4 screws, speedo, oil pressure tube and unplug to remove
55 still had the mechanical temp gauge that need to be snaked out from the motor
i'd swap it out for an electric temp gauge

somewhere in my built is my amp to volt gauge conversion, check it out