Firewall insul pad - right w/ air?

[DJ_Baar]

Can anyone recommend where to find replacement 67-72 FIREWALL INSULATION PAD - RIGHT BUT W/ AIR?

I can only find insulation pad available for trucks without factory air conditioning and it is missing in my 67 C20. Finding Driver and middle section is no problem.

I am working-out details to repair heater, A/C, & complete wiring harness (water rusted fuse panel from leaking windshield seal), and windshield seal....



DJ

[chewychevy67]

I don't think that there is one when a/c was an option. Mine doesn't have one anyway.

[DJ_Baar]

It looks that way, been Google searching the web thru many different Distributors and no joy so far.

[FirstOwner69]

Maybe this picture will help. Everything is factory original. I'm not sure if you are asking about the black cardboard covered stuff or the jute padding higher up.

[DJ_Baar]

Nice truck!

I was referring to the cardboard covered firewall insulation padding. It comes in three (3) sections, LH (Driver), middle, and RH (Passenger). RH I have only found in heater only applications, none for factory A/C models.

I suppose I should replace the jute padding too, but it is OK for now. The other has surface mold and broken cardboard and I need to redo the wiring harness anyway.


R/
Dave

[48richard]

Like chewychevy said, there is no RH piece with A/C.

[DJ_Baar]

OK, so nothing between heater box and firewall?

Thank you for clarifying that.

You would think at least one of the part Suppliers would say that instead of just for without factory A/C, only factory heater?

[FirstOwner69]

Here's another/better pic. Nothing there as stated above.

[snipescastle2]

I think they used that thin strip caulking from the factory with the a/c trucks.
Some sort of sealer would be better than having condensate dripping down your firewall and rusting out your floor boards after all that hard work!
Ben

Posted via Mobile Device

[DJ_Baar]

Note gaskets for firewall getting from LMC. That should seal heater box to firewall?

[snipescastle2]

I bought the same set, they are foam, imo, they aren't thick enough. I'd put some sort of black RTV or marine sealer by itself, or maybe in addition to the foam seals there isn't a lot of crush there.
maybe it's overkill, but that's just me.
HTH,
Ben

Posted via Mobile Device

[DJ_Baar]

Roger that Ben, I like to do things one time to last.

I started using same RustOleum bed coating I used on bed, on floor boards and up inside firewall after treating minor rust. (I have some serious rust with passenger rocker and rear cab corner I will take care of later with patch panels. Nice thing about this stuff is you can brush it on as you go and easy to work with (aside from a throw-away brush and gloves for application). I will be driving this after getting most of the bugs worked-out and only using floor mats for a little bit, so tough floor finish is a good idea. Idea with this project is to stop further rust and fix immediate problems then get back to it as time and money permit.

I will use a sealant that doesn't harden when I go to install gaskets on rebuilt heater box. (Pictures are as is now and not out yet.)

Going to go with new AWW wiring harness and tailor for me. I plan to keep this truck and building this one to keep, so not worried so much about keeping bone stock. So far only engine was changed from 327 to 350 (prior or original Owner). But rebuilding brakes and installing '71 front disk. (Same 3/4 ton 8 bolt wheels, just larger diameter wheel lugs & nuts. Can re-use A-arms but have to go with '71 spindles for the disk brakes, the bigger ball joints, and tie rod ends. Got a CPP Master Cylinder & booster to replace the stock unit too.)

Sorry I digress, I truly enjoy this this wrenching stuff too much. Only got this project beginning of July and moving along.


R/
DJ

[creekncabin]

Originally Posted by DJ_Baar

Roger that Ben, I like to do things one time to last.

I started using same RustOleum bed coating I used on bed, on floor boards and up inside firewall after treating minor rust. (I have some serious rust with passenger rocker and rear cab corner I will take care of later with patch panels. Nice thing about this stuff is you can brush it on as you go and easy to work with (aside from a throw-away brush and gloves for application). I will be driving this after getting most of the bugs worked-out and only using floor mats for a little bit, so tough floor finish is a good idea. Idea with this project is to stop further rust and fix immediate problems then get back to it as time and money permit.

I will use a sealant that doesn't harden when I go to install gaskets on rebuilt heater box. (Pictures are as is now and not out yet.)

Going to go with new AWW wiring harness and tailor for me. I plan to keep this truck and building this one to keep, so not worried so much about keeping bone stock. So far only engine was changed from 327 to 350 (prior or original Owner). But rebuilding brakes and installing '71 front disk. (Same 3/4 ton 8 bolt wheels, just larger diameter wheel lugs & nuts. Can re-use A-arms but have to go with '71 spindles for the disk brakes, the bigger ball joints, and tie rod ends. Got a CPP Master Cylinder & booster to replace the stock unit too.)

Sorry I digress, I truly enjoy this this wrenching stuff too much. Only got this project beginning of July and moving along.


R/
DJ

I did the same in my 67, I used POR Primer Over Rust. It is shinny but clean.

[DJ_Baar]

I like POR products http://www.por15.com/

Got some on order and will use as I go on this new project like I did on my '53.

Still working-on getting my '53 Chevy 5 window PU back from "X" --- its in the paperwork, just need to get it from GA and bring to NOLA.