Original Radiator - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

SIKKI-6 · 08-20-2016, 12:23 PM

Hello, I am new to the forum and joined after buying an all original 71 C10 big block truck, ac, hugger orange/white. The ONLY rust the truck has is on the passenger side inner fender where it bolts to the core support. So my question is, I have been going thru it all and cleaning. The original Harrison radiator may not be worth cleaning per the radiator shop but the end tanks are perfect. Should I buy a new radiator or just replace the core and use the original tanks? What would be a descent price to pay for the shop using the original tanks?
Thanks

**70STOVEBOLT** · 08-20-2016, 01:25 PM

I can't answer your question, but welcome to the board!

davepl · 08-20-2016, 01:49 PM

I'd get a price on having a new one built (recored) using your tanks vs just buying a replacement. Because these trucks are still actually used by people, service items like rads are still available, not just as "restoration" parts.

They're as low as $126 on RockAuto for my '70 big block. Hard to beat that, and it must be the big one because I spec'd 402 big block in the search.

SIKKI-6 · 08-20-2016, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

I can't answer your question, but welcome to the board!

Thank you!

SIKKI-6 · 08-20-2016, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davepl

I'd get a price on having a new one built (recored) using your tanks vs just buying a replacement. Because these trucks are still actually used by people, service items like rads are still available, not just as "restoration" parts.

They're as low as $126 on RockAuto for my '70 big block. Hard to beat that, and it must be the big one because I spec'd 402 big block in the search.

I am waiting until Monday when the radiator shop will call me with a quote using m tanks and building me a recored. I had searched on rockauto and did see any but I will certainly look again. Thanks!!

davepl · 08-20-2016, 02:57 PM

Enter: "1971 chevrolet c10 pickup 6.6l 402cid v8 radiator"

Results:

VISTA-PRO 433369 $126
SPECTRA CU369 $175

SIKKI-6 · 08-20-2016, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davepl

Enter: "1971 chevrolet c10 pickup 6.6l 402cid v8 radiator"

Results:

VISTA-PRO 433369 $126
SPECTRA CU369 $175

Got it, thanks!!

wbc409 · 08-20-2016, 03:26 PM

I looked into this a couple months ago for my truck. I got a spectra from summit. I should have spent more money for a different radiator. The seem between the core and tanks was the wrong contour causing an issue with the factory hold downs and rubber cushions.
The rubber cushions are reproduced as restoration parts and have a shape and contour faithful to the originals.
Getting your original radiator recored will be more expensive, probably double what a cheap replacement will cost. But I think you will be much happier with the fit.

**wesmigletz** · 08-20-2016, 03:43 PM

I would go with a re-core. The replacement radiators are no longer copper/brass and don't look "right" to me.

SIKKI-6 · 08-20-2016, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wbc409

I looked into this a couple months ago for my truck. I got a spectra from summit. I should have spent more money for a different radiator. The seem between the core and tanks was the wrong contour causing an issue with the factory hold downs and rubber cushions.
The rubber cushions are reproduced as restoration parts and have a shape and contour faithful to the originals.
Getting your original radiator recored will be more expensive, probably double what a cheap replacement will cost. But I think you will be much happier with the fit.

You are correct, it will be more expensive doing a recore with the original tanks and being happy with the results versus spending on an aftermarket rad. I am just trying to stay with all the original parts as I can. If I was doing an LS swap then it wouldn't matter bc you always have to fabricate on certain things.

SIKKI-6 · 08-20-2016, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wesmigletz

I would go with a re-core. The replacement radiators are no longer copper/brass and don't look "right" to me.

I agree! I will be doing that even if I have to pay the price.
Thanks!

**wesmigletz** · 08-20-2016, 03:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SIKKI-6

I agree! I will be doing that even if I have to pay the price.
Thanks!

I think you'll be happy with it doing it this way the first time.

I'm about to do this on my 67 Nova SS. It is a 327 car and came with a 4 core radiator. I'm going with a high efficiency core (more fins per inch than OE), but want the tanks and brackets to be original.

Freddo · 08-20-2016, 04:30 PM

I recently bought a 'Spectra' radiator from Rockauto. There was definitely some modifications needed to make it fit because of the way the tanks fit the core. It was thicker and didn't fit my 'holddown' braces. I had to take out the rubber brackets on the holddown braces and fashion homemade braces from pieces of a bicycle inner tube. The radiator sat about an inch higher which meant fashioning some hardware to move the shroud down that inch so that the fan didn't chop into it. These were mods I wasn't very happy to make but they weren't too difficult. The radiator shop quoted me $400 plus to do the recore of my original radiator which at triple the cost of the new one, seemed excessive. I don't see this ill fitting plastic & aluminum POS lasting anywhere near the 49 years that my original radiator lasted, but I have to say that it's keeping my truck cool.
Posted via Mobile Device

roboticjunky · 08-20-2016, 05:00 PM

I bought the Vista-Pro 433369 from Rockauto a month and an half ago. It's copper and brass (all metal) and 4 core 2 5/8" thick. If you don't have the 4 core brackets, you need them and had to cut the rubber bushings down. Also the bottom of my fan shroud had a lip that had to be cut.

Here's more info on that radiator. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pli-433369

In The Ten Ring · 08-20-2016, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roboticjunky

I bought the Vista-Pro 433369 from Rockauto a month and an half ago. It's copper and brass (all metal) and 4 core 2 5/8" thick. If you don't have the 4 core brackets, you need them and had to cut the rubber bushings down. Also the bottom of my fan shroud had a lip that had to be cut.

Here's more info on that radiator. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pli-433369

Would this radiator you have linked here (4 core) work with a 250 6 cylinder?

roboticjunky · 08-20-2016, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

Would this radiator you have linked here (4 core) work with a 250 6 cylinder?

If the 6 cylinder radiator is the same as a V8 radiator, then I would say yes. Honestly, don't know the difference with a I6 and a V8 radiator.

The radiator I posted has the curved inlet just like the stock radiator.

In The Ten Ring · 08-20-2016, 08:59 PM

I bought a replacement radiator from Advanced Auto but I haven't taken it out of the box! If it's plastic though, I'll try and get something else and the one linked above is pretty nice although the link says "not available."

roboticjunky · 08-20-2016, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

I bought a replacement radiator from Advanced Auto but I haven't taken it out of the box! If it's plastic though, I'll try and get something else and the one linked above is pretty nice although the link says "not available."

It's available at Rockauto (close out deal because they stopped making it). I just used the link to Summit Racing for a better description and it had a review of someone with a C10 from 2 years ago. I found another site that had that same radiator and had it listed for $400, but most websites don't have it (except Rockauto has it).

In The Ten Ring · 08-20-2016, 10:40 PM

Stopped making it? I better call Rock Auto Monday then, thanks!

roboticjunky · 08-20-2016, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

Stopped making it? I better call Rock Auto Monday then, thanks!

I know. I suggested the radiator in another thread.

It keeps my motor cool. I use a 180 thermostat, new water pump, hoses, and radiator and the truck runs at 177 degrees.

hdff · 08-20-2016, 11:07 PM

Welcome to the forum! What part of Houston are you in? Maybe we can get together some time and talk trucks...

Also we love pictures, soooo

toolboxchev · 08-21-2016, 02:00 AM

I had my 4 row re-cored last summer and with the 100 degree heat today I was barely pushing 180 on the stock gauge.

There is a company out of Canada that make industrial forklift cores with thicker material and I paid about 450 bucks.

It was worth it in my mind.

**Already Gone** · 08-21-2016, 02:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toolboxchev

I had my 4 row re-cored last summer and with the 100 degree heat today I was barely pushing 180 on the stock gauge.

There is a company out of Canada that make industrial forklift cores with thicker material and I paid about 450 bucks.

It was worth it in my mind.

Whats the name and address of the Canadian Company that does the cores?

toolboxchev · 08-21-2016, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Already Gone

Whats the name and address of the Canadian Company that does the cores?

Give me a few, I will have to get a hold of my radiator guy. Able radiator built it for me, Milwaukie Oregon.

That guy is good at what he does.

**Already Gone** · 08-21-2016, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toolboxchev

Give me a few, I will have to get a hold of my radiator guy. Able radiator built it for me, Milwaukie Oregon.

That guy is good at what he does.

K, thanks

08-20-2016, 12:23 PM	#1
SIKKI-6 Registered User Join Date: May 2016 Location: TEXAS Posts: 46	Original Radiator Hello, I am new to the forum and joined after buying an all original 71 C10 big block truck, ac, hugger orange/white. The ONLY rust the truck has is on the passenger side inner fender where it bolts to the core support. So my question is, I have been going thru it all and cleaning. The original Harrison radiator may not be worth cleaning per the radiator shop but the end tanks are perfect. Should I buy a new radiator or just replace the core and use the original tanks? What would be a descent price to pay for the shop using the original tanks? Thanks

08-20-2016, 01:25 PM	#2
70STOVEBOLT Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Winona Lake, IN Posts: 6,450	Re: Original Radiator I can't answer your question, but welcome to the board! __________________ 70 C/10 SWB 402/TH400/3.73 "The Needy Beast" 200,000 Mile Club Disc Brake Club Owner installed options: Front Sway Bar Power Steering Power Brakes Cigar Lighter Courtesy Lights Deluxe Side Markers Wiper Delay Sliding Rear Window Power Windows Power Locks Sniper EFI 2015 Silverado 1500 LS 4.3/6L80/3.23 lowered 2" front & rear

08-20-2016, 01:49 PM	#3
davepl Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 6,334	Re: Original Radiator I'd get a price on having a new one built (recored) using your tanks vs just buying a replacement. Because these trucks are still actually used by people, service items like rads are still available, not just as "restoration" parts. They're as low as $126 on RockAuto for my '70 big block. Hard to beat that, and it must be the big one because I spec'd 402 big block in the search. __________________ 1970 GMC Sierra Grande Custom Camper - Built, not Bought 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Coupe 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Convertible

08-20-2016, 02:57 PM	#6
davepl Registered User Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Redmond, WA Posts: 6,334	Re: Original Radiator Enter: "1971 chevrolet c10 pickup 6.6l 402cid v8 radiator" Results: VISTA-PRO 433369 $126 SPECTRA CU369 $175 __________________ 1970 GMC Sierra Grande Custom Camper - Built, not Bought 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Coupe 1969 Pontiac 2+2 427/390 4-speed Convertible

08-20-2016, 03:26 PM	#8
wbc409 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: st cloud mn Posts: 163	Re: Original Radiator I looked into this a couple months ago for my truck. I got a spectra from summit. I should have spent more money for a different radiator. The seem between the core and tanks was the wrong contour causing an issue with the factory hold downs and rubber cushions. The rubber cushions are reproduced as restoration parts and have a shape and contour faithful to the originals. Getting your original radiator recored will be more expensive, probably double what a cheap replacement will cost. But I think you will be much happier with the fit.

08-20-2016, 03:43 PM	#9
wesmigletz Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Parker, Texas Posts: 685	Re: Original Radiator I would go with a re-core. The replacement radiators are no longer copper/brass and don't look "right" to me. __________________ 1970 2WD K5 1968 Camaro Conv 1967 Chevy SWB 1964 Malibu SS 1957 Corvette Pics www.picturetrail.com/wesmigletz

08-20-2016, 04:30 PM	#13
Freddo Registered User Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Richland, WA Posts: 85	Re: Original Radiator I recently bought a 'Spectra' radiator from Rockauto. There was definitely some modifications needed to make it fit because of the way the tanks fit the core. It was thicker and didn't fit my 'holddown' braces. I had to take out the rubber brackets on the holddown braces and fashion homemade braces from pieces of a bicycle inner tube. The radiator sat about an inch higher which meant fashioning some hardware to move the shroud down that inch so that the fan didn't chop into it. These were mods I wasn't very happy to make but they weren't too difficult. The radiator shop quoted me $400 plus to do the recore of my original radiator which at triple the cost of the new one, seemed excessive. I don't see this ill fitting plastic & aluminum POS lasting anywhere near the 49 years that my original radiator lasted, but I have to say that it's keeping my truck cool. Posted via Mobile Device Last edited by Freddo; 08-20-2016 at 04:31 PM. Reason: Spelling

08-20-2016, 05:00 PM	#14
roboticjunky Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: IN Posts: 209	Re: Original Radiator I bought the Vista-Pro 433369 from Rockauto a month and an half ago. It's copper and brass (all metal) and 4 core 2 5/8" thick. If you don't have the 4 core brackets, you need them and had to cut the rubber bushings down. Also the bottom of my fan shroud had a lip that had to be cut. Here's more info on that radiator. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pli-433369

08-20-2016, 08:59 PM	#17
In The Ten Ring Registered User Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: West Virginia Posts: 6,427	Re: Original Radiator I bought a replacement radiator from Advanced Auto but I haven't taken it out of the box! If it's plastic though, I'll try and get something else and the one linked above is pretty nice although the link says "not available."

08-20-2016, 10:40 PM	#19
In The Ten Ring Registered User Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: West Virginia Posts: 6,427	Re: Original Radiator Stopped making it? I better call Rock Auto Monday then, thanks!

08-20-2016, 11:07 PM	#21
hdff Registered User Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: pasadena,TEXAS Posts: 880	Re: Original Radiator Welcome to the forum! What part of Houston are you in? Maybe we can get together some time and talk trucks... Also we love pictures, soooo __________________ 1971 Cheyenne SWB 402BB, 700R4, 3.73 posi, PS, PB, A/C, Tilt, Tach "Wanda" Don't argue with idiots, People watching may not be able to tell the difference... There's someone in my head........But it's not me...... cheap tricks thread great info here!! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=489394 Last edited by hdff; 08-21-2016 at 09:28 AM.

08-21-2016, 02:00 AM	#22
toolboxchev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: 2nd left past the stump on a dirt road. Posts: 2,629	Re: Original Radiator I had my 4 row re-cored last summer and with the 100 degree heat today I was barely pushing 180 on the stock gauge. There is a company out of Canada that make industrial forklift cores with thicker material and I paid about 450 bucks. It was worth it in my mind.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.