All projects start with a dream

[gigamanx]

I'm hooked. I saw a 49 chevy sitting on a modern frame last weekend and talked to the owner. Got the juices flowing and I've been researching the heck out of them since.

I need a place to start! So I have questions for those of you who have probably answered them already.

My requirements are pretty simple...I'd like the end of the project to be a 49-54 Chevy 3100 that has 4x4 for snow and pulling a boat up a ramp. When I'm not pulling the boat, I'd like to drop the stance with air bags. The boat is 5500lbs. I need to start with a donor vehicle for the chassis, trans, engine, and parts, then find the old steel body to finish it all out. An S10 doesn't have the tow capacity needed so that option doesn't seem to be the best.

What other donors should I be looking at that would work? A Chevy K10, Chevy 5100? Would love to hear thoughts and ideas.

[CATMdude45]

Took a look at a 4x4 51, owner stated the driveline and frame came from a 80's blazer, figure the frame took some work. If you have a reputable frame shop there are lots of options.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by CATMdude45

Took a look at a 4x4 51, owner stated the driveline and frame came from a 80's blazer, figure the frame took some work. If you have a reputable frame shop there are lots of options.

Thanks! It looks like an 80s blazer and/or S10 pulls about 3500lb to 5000lb. It does have 4x4 though so I would need something with a little more beef. Do not yet have a reputable chassis company since I'm such a n00b.

[CATMdude45]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Thanks! It looks like an 80s blazer and/or S10 pulls about 3500lb to 5000lb. It does have 4x4 though so I would need something with a little more beef. Do not yet have a reputable chassis company since I'm such a n00b.

I am sure there are several people from your area that would have some recommendations, the hardest part for me as I am not a fabricator is finding someone I trust to do the work.

[73kay]

I would think if you use the stock/s10 frame but box it and get heavier duty suspension that would work better. I think it boils down to drivetrain and suspension that you need to really address. The stock 3100 is roughly 3000 lbs so it would be a good think to try and get some more weight on the tow vehicle. Especially if there aren't any trailer brakes. (Scary).

As a side note, I have towed with my 4Runner a trailer (1500 lbs) and a half ton truck (3500 lbs) about 5,000 lbs and that's the 4runner's limit. Even with trailer brakes my load can get kinda scary. It just haves too much influence on 4Runner. And the 4Runner weighs almost 5000 lbs so your getting close to the limits of a half ton or less equipment.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by 73kay

I would think if you use the stock/s10 frame but box it and get heavier duty suspension that would work better. I think it boils down to drivetrain and suspension that you need to really address. The stock 3100 is roughly 3000 lbs so it would be a good think to try and get some more weight on the tow vehicle. Especially if there aren't any trailer brakes. (Scary).

As a side note, I have towed with my 4Runner a trailer (1500 lbs) and a half ton truck (3500 lbs) about 5,000 lbs and that's the 4runner's limit. Even with trailer brakes my load can get kinda scary. It just haves too much influence on 4Runner. And the 4Runner weighs almost 5000 lbs so your getting close to the limits of a half ton or less equipment.

An S10 frame and running gear has been the general consensus across all my research. It has the option of being lowered about 3" on the front and is rated at a 5000lb tow capacity. If I choose a truck larger such as a K10, the front diff is a straight axle and there are zero options for making a sleek truck when not towing. Life is full of compromises

[HUSSEY]

I think you may be trying to shoot for too much. You may have to come up with a compromise.

A full size truck chassis will likely have too wide of a track width to tuck the wheels. For a lowered 4WD stance, an S10 would be a better choice; however you may not get the towing capacity you’re shooting for.

I’ve research bagging my S10 RWD chassis quite a bit though I’m no bagging expert by any means. But I will say that I think it may be more challenging to bag any Chevy 4WD. 80’s Chevy 4x4s had solid axles with leaf springs, then they went to torsion bar suspension, now they’re using coil over type suspension.

You said it, not I, that you're a n00b. Do you have any previous design / fabrication / welding experience? Swapping a chassis is not as simple as slapping a body on a different frame. There's a lot of work involved.

[73kay]

Same. I don't know bags at all. If you really really want beefy suspension maybe get k10 suspension and get the axles trimmed down and modify the suspension into the stock frame. Expensive probably but is thought I'd throw it out there. I'm sure it's full of Swiss cheese issues and challenges but that's the fun part of this hobby. Curious what you end up doing. I have a trailer that I want my 53 to tow so I'll be watching what you decide.

[joedoh]

4x4 s10 use torsion bars in the front, if you move the motor back the required 6-7 inches the transfer case will interfere with the torsion bar crossmember. msaintg has a project thread that discusses this. not to mention bagging a torsion bar front suspension will have its pitfalls too.

bagging a 4x4 is tough, they are usually made with a certain ride height for good cv joint angles so to lower it you would need to make sure the ride height was high enough not to eat up your cvs, and that may require raising the front differential in the suspension. there are not many lowering components for awd and 4wd trucks, except for trucks like escalades and land rovers, and those kits are seriously expensive. my friend wanted to bag his older awd escalade and the kit cost more than his truck.

I like the idea that anything is possible, but like Hussey said, look at what you will be able to do on your own, or this will very quickly cost 3 times more than building a bagged AD and buying a second tow vehicle for the winter.

nothing wrong with "bench racing", its what I call planning every detail before actually turning a wrench, but there are two pitfalls to bench racing, the first is when you talk yourself out of a perfectly good project because you see a problem you cant solve 20 steps down the line (so I mount the engine, mount the trans, mount the body, mount the bed, but how do I mount the gas tank?! oh well, not worth even starting) and the second is when you buy every single part according to the plan and find out your plan was a mistake because at the first part of the build you lack _____ (a part, a skill, space, etc, that snowballs all the downstream decisions) .

the first is covered by my saying "do what comes first before you worry about what comes next" and the second is covered by the old adage "planning is useful until the first shot is fired"

[bobinbc]

Just throwing this out there but isn't there a chassis about the size of the Trailblazer, Equinox or something like that which is AWD and uses a LS style engine? Would be 99 or newer and there is a thread where someone is build a Task Force truck on one....sorry kinda vague I know...just got home from work....can't brain, have the dumbs....

[gigamanx]

[QUOTE=joedoh;7713876

nothing wrong with "bench racing", its what I call planning every detail before actually turning a wrench, but there are two pitfalls to bench racing, the first is when you talk yourself out of a perfectly good project because you see a problem you cant solve 20 steps down the line (so I mount the engine, mount the trans, mount the body, mount the bed, but how do I mount the gas tank?! oh well, not worth even starting) and the second is when you buy every single part according to the plan and find out your plan was a mistake because at the first part of the build you lack _____ (a part, a skill, space, etc, that snowballs all the downstream decisions) .

the first is covered by my saying "do what comes first before you worry about what comes next" and the second is covered by the old adage "planning is useful until the first shot is fired"[/QUOTE]

Great advice and thank you to all in this thread so far. I am quickly realizing my steps need to begin with getting a 49-52 truck and figuring out what comes next. I started researching based on what my end goal was to see if its even possible. I realized pretty quickly that my higher priority is my personal "coolness" factor that comes with driving a rat, hot, street rod no matter what its functional capabilities are. I think an S10 chassis will give me some of what I need and I may just ditch the 4wd idea and just spend some money on some good winter wheels/tires for snow.

I've read some towing forums and there seems to be a number of RWD trucks that have no issue with pulling a boat up a ramp. So, the plan now is to shop for a truck. Maybe something I can get on the road for now and start worrying about what I want to do with it next. An S10 chassis with the possibility of having someone beef up the rear end sounds like a good next step.

Right now, the AWD/4WD component is out. I can't find a reasonable solution to this and I don't have an endless budget or the fabrication skills to figure it out.

To another poster: I am a n00b and I'm comfortable starting there and learning everything. I built a motorcycle two years ago from knowing nothing of engines, transmissions, frame geometry, electrical, etc. I fixed major components of my Class A RV without knowing anything about refrigeration, brakes, and electrical systems. The truck is next just the next challenge to overcome

[73kay]

Cool man I recommend you honestly check craigslist daily in the southern states especially Texas and Oklahoma for your truck. I found mine for $1100 and did a bonded title for $300. Have one of us check it out for you and you fly out or trailer it home. (Depending on $ and or if it's running) There are plenty of stock out here and price is reasonable. Your save a lot of sheet metal work. If I see a good deal I'll pm you if you want. Good luck!

[HUSSEY]

Sounds like you're starting to hone in on a good direction. I've had boats in the past and always used a RWD truck to pull them out of the lake.

A great rear end alternative to for the S10 is an Explorer 8.8 rear end. They're really stout and they practically drop in short of a conversion U-joint. You can find these rear ends all day long at a Pick N Pull.

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f13/ex...h-pics-513864/

[gigamanx]

ok, now this thread is getting me excited. I have been craigslist stalking a bit already just checking what's out there and the price I expect to pay for a clean body and something to start with. This one is nearby so I might go check it out first

http://frederick.craigslist.org/cto/5750720369.html

The second option is this one.

http://lancaster.craigslist.org/cto/5763216255.html

Neither have a title and the cab might be a little further gone than I want. I am trying to find something I can at least drive around town within 6 months or so. Basically, winter project timeframe She doesn't have to be pretty, but road legal.

Going on a business trip this week, so may look at this one too...it seems to be a little more solid body wise
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/5774783982.html

or I go a few steps further and a few dollars further for this S10 with LS swap already done.
http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/5774783348.html

...Update: Just realized the two North Carolina ones are the same guy with two trucks side by side. Hmm...package deal? The 5 window is pretty sweet looking, but the 3 window has the LS and S10 chassis. Maybe parting out one and building up a single truck of the other would net me a pretty low all in price at that point

[HUSSEY]

The first one looks promising, I don't see much rot and it looks like it's all there. The last one could save you some time since it's got the truck, motor, and trans there for you. However, if the body is mounted to the chassis and not just sitting on it, you'll definitely have some rework to do.

It's funny how many abandoned projects you find on CL. Usually they think it worth good money when typically you need to go back and re-do just about everything they did because it's usually the guy with limited skills that abandons a project. But, $3,500 isn't a bad price and I bet he would come down a little. The motor and trans combo on that has to be worth at least $1,500.

Here's my CL search string ADs. Click the search only titles box.

(1947|1948|1949|1950|1951|1952|1953|1954|1955|47|48|49|50|51|52|53|54|55) (chevy|chevrolet|gmc)

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by HUSSEY

It's funny how many abandoned projects you find on CL. Usually they think it worth good money when typically you need to go back and re-do just about everything they did because it's usually the guy with limited skills that abandons a project.

amen to that. ask chaddude about his friends truck, bought on craigslist with an "S10 swap" and "LS motor"

they are quoted because the body was mounted only in the spirit of the word, I think the radiator was mounted with a welding glove. and the "LS" was a 4.8 LR4 truck motor and trans. I wasnt brave enough for it, it all needed redone, but his buddy has made it pretty nice.

buy as much truck as you can afford. the time saved fixing rust adds years to your life and improves your attitude daily.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

buy as much truck as you can afford. the time saved fixing rust adds years to your life and improves your attitude daily.

Best advice yet in this thread. That quote needs to be etched in stone somewhere.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by 73kay

Cool man I recommend you honestly check craigslist daily in the southern states especially Texas and Oklahoma for your truck. I found mine for $1100 and did a bonded title for $300. Have one of us check it out for you and you fly out or trailer it home. (Depending on $ and or if it's running) There are plenty of stock out here and price is reasonable. Your save a lot of sheet metal work. If I see a good deal I'll pm you if you want. Good luck!

What is a bonded title? I've noticed a number of lawn ornaments, as my wife calls them, don't have any paperwork to be able to register in the future. I'm offered a bill of sale and a handshake.

[73kay]

Long story short, it's a legal way for you to get ownership of the vehicle. States vary wildly. I bought my truck with a bill of sale and Texas until 54 I think used the engine number as the vin so I had a motor put in and got it inspected. Passed for a 53 and wasn't stolen and collected all the paperwork and turned it into the dmw. Got a bonded title and was able to register the vehicle. It's bonded for 3 years then it's a regular title.

Of course there are risks etc, but that is the very quick way to explain it. For the right price I took a risk and went thru the process. Half way into the process the dmv people scared me and said my vehicle would be an "assembled 2016 vehicle" and must conform to the safety standards of that year. So I went to a title company and for $300 bought piece of mind. Dmv ppl are a bag of rocks. Most of them don't know the law for older vehicles very well.

[gigamanx]

Along the lines of getting as much truck as I can afford...This one is in Long island. Seems like a solid truck if I wanted to get on the road in a very short amount of time. S10 chassis already mounted and the option to go add the engine I want later.

http://longisland.craigslist.org/cto/5759054760.html

$5000 is really pushing my budget, but it seems to be a good deal for that much completed work.

[joedoh]

run away from that. floor work sucks. mounting the radiator and front clip sucks. mounting the bed is a fiddly chore. the only thing he has done (for body mounting) is mount the cab, and anyone can do that in a couple days.

when I said buy as much truck as you can afford, I meant buy as much ORIGINAL METAL as you can afford. replacing rust sucks. and it never is as simple as what you see, I had a small hole on the passenger floor and I replaced both floor halves, toe boards, kick panels, and a cab corner. I wish I had that time back.

5k will turn into 10k in a blink on that truck. what is your budget?

and heed 73kay, do title work and registration FIRST. when they ask what your plans are dont gush and think you are rubbing elbows with car guys, they will legislate you to death. say "get it run" and grunt.

[gigamanx]

Ooooh! Glad you clarified. I definitely thought you meant as much completed truck as possible. I don't have a budget for the final product. $25K or less would be nice in the end. The main reason to start with less is so I'm not outlying my entire budget at the beginning of the project and I can make small less costly mistakes if I take it in bights. If I try too much too soon, I'm afraid I'll just end up with a garage full of parts and nothing to drive. The goal right now is to be drivable by Spring next year. That doesn't mean pristine, I'd be happy if it had brakes and I didn't have to wear goggles to drive down the road because of rust flakes flying around the cab. Looks like the first link I posted is still the best option. Might be another week or two before I can get down there to see it in person.

[Ta2edjr]

S10 feame, 4.8-5.3 4l60 built and a set of xj axles they are tough and guys wheel with them all the time the front is coil spring already so that could help with the bags just my .02

[Russell Ashley]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Along the lines of getting as much truck as I can afford...This one is in Long island. Seems like a solid truck if I wanted to get on the road in a very short amount of time. S10 chassis already mounted and the option to go add the engine I want later.

http://longisland.craigslist.org/cto/5759054760.html

$5000 is really pushing my budget, but it seems to be a good deal for that much completed work.

It looks like they mounted the body on a short wheel base s10 frame and moved the rear fenders accordingly. There's too much bed behind the fenders and it looks out of proportion..

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Ta2edjr

S10 feame, 4.8-5.3 4l60 built and a set of xj axles they are tough and guys wheel with them all the time the front is coil spring already so that could help with the bags just my .02

you cant bag a solid front axle very easily, the front pumpkin and axle tube would like to occupy the same space as the motor. draw an imaginary line through the center of the wheel, four inches above that is as low as the engine can be, ever.

even bagging a front solid drop axle (not 4x4) is a tough way to get low.