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10-17-2016, 06:54 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 52
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Pros / cons to updating to newer ball joints and control-arm bushings?
I'm currently window-shopping and pricing out a disc-brake + lowering spindle swap on my 64, and I'm wondering if there's any benefit to upgrading to the later model ball joints and/or control arm bushings?
What are the main differences? Any noticeable changes in performance or comfort?
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1964 C10 Fleetside Long Bed |
10-17-2016, 09:50 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Tulare, CA
Posts: 734
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Re: Pros / cons to updating to newer ball joints and control-arm bushings?
When I did my 64 C-10 I purchased a complete 73 front suspension ($250.00) and I got EVERYTHING! Master Cylinder but no Vacuum booster ALL front the brake lines, hoses & even the proportioning valve. I bought Captainfab's Power Steering box Bracket and his Power Brake Bracket EXCELLENT pieces and for a Very Good Price! I bought the entire front suspension because my reasoning was I could drive my truck and take my time cleaning, bead blasting and painting my suspension before installing it in my truck. I bought poly bushings, CPP 2 1/2" drop spindles, Standard height MOOG front springs (I wish I bought 2" drop springs besides the drop spindles) all this came from Summit. I bought Raybestos Professional Grade Ball Joints (not cheap but do you want to trust your life to a $12.00 Chinese made ball joint?) I bought the CPP 6 lug Disc Rotors (also Summit?) rebuilt calipers, master cylinder from Auto Zone - about $35.00 each if I remember correctly - I turned in the old ones for the core charge. I bought new front wheel bearings - Timkin or SKF I can't remember, new rubber brake hoses, wheel bearing washers, spindle nuts and even new dust caps from Rock Auto. I bought a used Vacuum booster & 1 1/4" sway bar from the wrecking yard. I didn't replace the tie rod ends or the center link as they were good and very easy to replace down the road if needed. All in all adding everything up I was a little over $1,000.00 but I figured I would be long dead and buried before the front suspension would need any attention and then it would be the grand kids problem. Oh, I did have to make my own bracket to mount the proportioning valve in the 1973 position. My C-10 now handles & drives GREAT! Since I used ALL GM lines, master, booster & proportioning valve I've actually conned a few people into believing GM offered Disc Brakes in 1964.
I've got a LOT more pictures if you care to see them. They're just too many to load on here. |
10-19-2016, 11:36 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 52
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Re: Pros / cons to updating to newer ball joints and control-arm bushings?
Thanks for the details. Do you think the ball joints or control arm bushings specifically had an impact on ride quality or handling?
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1964 C10 Fleetside Long Bed |
10-19-2016, 08:33 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Tulare, CA
Posts: 734
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Re: Pros / cons to updating to newer ball joints and control-arm bushings?
Honestly I doubt the ball joints or the control arm bushings had any impact on the ride or handling. My original 64 stuff was pretty worn so it's hard to say. The original owner cut the front springs with a torch to lower the truck which sure didn't help the ride. I believe the best thing for the handling was the 1 1/4" sway bar I got from the junk yard and the poly bushings I bought for the sway bar. The sway bar came from a 76 one ton. Even with the drop spindles my truck sits a little too high in the front for my liking. Another 2" of drop in the front and I will be happy. Oh, and to complete my "It came with Power Disc Brakes" farce I even modded a 73 Power Disc Brake Pedal to fit my 64 brake arm.
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