11-28-2016, 03:05 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Denison, Texas
Posts: 63
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Bad wheel bearings
Need some help with figuring out if my wheel bearings are shot. I recently rebuilt my front end which included new balljoints, tie rods, idler & pitman arms. Also added 3 inch drop spindles at the time.
Now I didn't change the bearings and if I have the front end off the ground and grab the wheel, it has a little play in every direction. I took the wheel off and used a long handled screwdriver in the slotted rotor to move it. It definitely is the rotor that is moving on the spindle. I had a friend apply the brakes and there is still play. I thought that wheel bearing play should disappear if the brakes are depressed? The amount of play if probably around 1/8 of an inch |
11-28-2016, 04:04 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Manley Hot Springs Alaska
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Re: Bad wheel bearings
There is a nut in there which is not hard to get to and with a special socket (20 bucks)you can tighten up the bearing and take out the play, But you will be right in there and at that point you can take out the bearing and have a look to see if it is good.
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11-28-2016, 04:11 PM | #3 |
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Location: Denison, Texas
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Re: Bad wheel bearings
are you talking about the spindle nut? the big one that actually holds the rotor to the spindle? I don't know of any other nut
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11-28-2016, 05:24 PM | #4 |
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Re: Bad wheel bearings
You're right, I was thinking 4X4. The spindle nut tightens bearings. There is a specific preload for this. With the spindle nut off you should be able to remove the rotor and examine the inside and outside bearing races.
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11-28-2016, 07:52 PM | #5 |
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Location: Waskatenau, Alberta
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Re: Bad wheel bearings
I'm not exactly sure what "torque" the big nut needs to be, but I have always done mine "just a little more" than finger tight. An old timer told me that if you tighten too much, it will take out the wheel bearings, too loose and you will have play. The bearings/races are dirt cheap for these old girls. Just make sure you buy good quality bearings (made in USA) and pack properly with grease.
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11-29-2016, 09:12 AM | #6 |
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Location: Saskatoon, SK
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Re: Bad wheel bearings
Is it possible the spindles are wrong? I may be wrong, but I think I've read something about the 1" vs 1.25" rotors having different sized wheel bearings...
Shop manual procedure for front wheel bearings is to torque the nut to 12 ft. lb while spinning the wheel forwards. Then back it off to just loose, then tighten it by hand then loosen no more than 1/2 flat to line up a slot with the hole in the spindle. |
11-29-2016, 10:24 AM | #7 | ||
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Location: Denison, Texas
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Re: Bad wheel bearings
Quote:
Quote:
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11-29-2016, 11:05 AM | #8 |
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Location: Oklahoma City, OK
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Re: Bad wheel bearings
Might check the races in the rotors. Went to get my rotors turned when replacing the pads and the guy noticed that the races were freely spinning in the rotors. Two new rotors and sets of bearings later, the problem was solved. At least it was discovered in the driveway instead of a 100 miles from home.
You did keep the bearings matched with their races? Mixing used bearings and races isn't recommended. First thing I would try is loosening the spindle nut and resetting your bearings using oldpurple's method. Might be just that simple. |
12-17-2016, 08:50 PM | #9 |
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Denison, Texas
Posts: 63
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Re: Bad wheel bearings
Thought I would update this thread. I ended up putting in new races and bearings both inner and outer. The play is gone. Looks like the old bearings were slid all the way back on the spindle (they didn't catch on the taper of the spindle, not the best explanation but hopefully it makes sense). Thanks for the help y'all!
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