Firewall Prep

[Guyz55]

looking for ways to prep my firewall for paint . I would like to find the best/easiest way to fill the holes in my firewall


Thank you

[FAKKY]

https://www.bobdrake.com/FordItem.aspx?Item=HR-1580

[Guyz55]

cant weld

[FAKKY]

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....4,203,200_.jpg

Me neither

But areas like firewall... Non visible patch panels and exhaust are best place to start

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Guyz55

cant weld

Learn!

But barring that, buy the kit of plugs and take it to a local weld shop and ask them to weld them for you maybe a bit at a time to make it more affordable. If you're going to half-ass it, why bother? Do it right or don't do it.

[roger55]

Anyone doing work to the level you are should consider investing in a good quality mig welder with good features.
It is, by far, the preferred way to repair holes in a firewall.

That said, and to answer your question directly, there are professional products to make the repair without welding. It's not going to be cheap though.

http://3mcollision.com/3m-panel-bond...ive-08116.html

Eastwood makes some stuff too but I don't think you can state that it's a place pros buy from:

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/sheet...ue-you-can-do/

If you really wanted to go cheap (and you will probably take some flak for it), you could use JB Weld. I wouldn't give advice to someone to use it for that but my thought is that it would probably work OK if you prepped the metal by scuffing and cleaning well.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by roger55

Anyone doing work to the level you are should consider investing in a good quality mig welder with good features.
It is, by far, the preferred way to repair holes in a firewall.

That said, and to answer your question directly, there are professional products to make the repair without welding. It's not going to be cheap though.

http://3mcollision.com/3m-panel-bond...ive-08116.html

Eastwood makes some stuff too but I don't think you can state that it's a place pros buy from:

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/sheet...ue-you-can-do/

If you really wanted to go cheap (and you will probably take some flak for it), you could use JB Weld. I wouldn't give advice to someone to use it for that but my thought is that it would probably work OK if you prepped the metal by scuffing and cleaning well.

Roger, Roger, Roger,

I thought of these options too but didnt want to state them because the OP needed to hear that restoring old vehicles CORRECTLY requires you to buy tools and learn skills (the guy now paying someone else to build his truck said)

PS to the OP: DON'T consider one of the first things you will think of, "I'll buy a Harbor Freight fluxcore welder." You'll regret it and no one will wnt to buy it from you after you discover it's not what you should have bought. I bought a used Hobart 140 for $300. Later I spent to buy a gas bottle filled with ArCo2 gas - yes, you WILL need this.

PPSS to the OP: Someone will now post that they did their entire truck with a fluxcore welder. Yes, it's possible but its messy (weld spatter) and MOST will say don't count on that working for you.

[dsraven]

if you can't weld and can't pay a welder then just plug the holes with grommets or auto body hole plugs. the glue may work but if you have a firewall mounted brake unit the firewall will probably flex some and cause the glue to come off. another thing you could do is use an elevator bolt with the nut on the back side but then those will be seen from the inside. google elevator bolt for a pic. would cover a fairly good sized hole. not too proffessional looking though. some guys use them to actually weld into the holes because they are easy to hang on to and then they just cut the back side off and grind smooth. easy to make fit the hole too, if they are bigger than the hole is.

[dsraven]

agreed with Dan, flux core sucks after you have used a mig with gas. check craigslist or borrow one and practice welding till good enough to do your own. cheaper and you get to say you did that.there are courses offered at shops that sell the welders. maybe you could check iy out and just rent a welder for that job after you learn how to weld. prolly gonna want a welder with your name on it after though, haha
or, just plug the holes with grommets or auto body hole plugs and carry on.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by dsraven

or, just plug the holes with grommets or auto body hole plugs and carry on.

I agree with this suggestion, welding is a light touch and you have to strip everything, wiring, insulation, etc in order to do it safely. and if you miss even a pinhole, water WILL get in it and it will rust starting right there. welding is correct for restorers who will finish both sides of the weld and know exactly how many and where the holes need to stay. I couldnt imagine anything worse than filling holes and realizing you need another.

[dsraven]

agreed with joedoh as well. flat panels are easily warped with the heat of welding and grinding so best to practice lots first, get a pro to do it, or just default back to the grommets and auto body plugs. spend the time on something else. if it is a show truck then find a pro to weld them for you or weld in a new flat firewall for you.

[Foot Stomper]

Originally Posted by dsraven

agreed with joedoh as well. flat panels are easily warped with the heat of welding and grinding so best to practice lots first, get a pro to do it, or just default back to the grommets and auto body plugs. spend the time on something else. if it is a show truck then find a pro to weld them for you or weld in a new flat firewall for you.

Awesome advice!

Maybe leave the hood closed or do a great job of wiring to impress the lookie loo's.

[hogfarm]

Tools are the key.To restore or modify these trucks you need tools,and they need to be the right tools

[Donaldo]

Almost all community colleges have a welding program, take the beginning course and learn the basics, get a small quality wire feed/MIG welder and some grinding equipment for finish work. You will have done your truck and yourself a great favor.

[mr48chev]

Back in the early 70's before do it at home guys had mig welders and Tig welders were only in high end welding shops we used to trim a sheet of aluminum or other metal to fit and bolt it on covering most of the holes. Some guys even put a bit of trim around the edge of the metal like door edge trim to dress it up a bit more. Far from perfect but quite common. I can't get to my truck because of the snow but think that I still have the aluminum panel on the firewall covering the original holes and the holes I drilled in it to hang a big ugly booster that I later took off and in a rush to go from bare frame and cab sitting on a pallet to a running driving truck in a little over three weeks time stuck the metal on it. That was 1989 tech.

The best way is still to weld the holes up right and grind things smooth.

If you put a piece of sheet metal over the firewall you still need to plug all of the holes with the suggested rubber plugs or something to keep the heat out as it is just a cover to slick things off and doesn't seal the firewall. Heat finds a way to get around and behind it if you don't.
Ends up being something like my finger painted rendition here.

[dsraven]

good idea mr 48. I was gonna chime in with the same thought.
you can cut a pattern out of poster board or cardboard box and then head off to the metal dealer for a piece. stainless is nice as well and holds a shine longer. i think a bit more impervious to engine cleaners and the like, down the road. panel can be held on with some nice chrome or stainless bolts. again, chrome will end up rusting and leaving a trail on the new panel. stainless is not that much more anyway, just use a nylock lock nut and some body washers on the back side so it doesn't come loose. you could cut some stand off bushings to space the panel slightly off the firewall and make up for any ribs that it would have to compensate for. that way it would be nice and solid. to get really fancy have the metal place bend it to go around the curve to the cab mount area. more work to cut around the steering column though. would look good. the sheet usually comes (if buying polished) with a peel off wrap to keep finger prints and stuff off. peel it off last for a nice mirrored finish.
or, just buy regular sheet steel and paint it when you are done.

[Guyz55]

Thank you all .
Luckily the truck does not need that much welding . I found a welder that is mobile guy that will come to my garage to do the welding for me

Dan in Pasadena ...I cant agree more ..I want the finished product to be done right .

So I am pulling the motor in a couple of weeks , at which time I will have the holes welded up .Once they are welded up how is the best way to finish up the welded areas ( grinding and body filler)?

I will be doing the front brake upgrade soon at a friends garage who has a lift ( yay) then the power steering ...I am sure I will have more questions as my build progresses

Again ...thank you ........doing it right is the only way to do it .

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Guyz55

...I found a welder that is mobile guy that will come to my garage to do the welding for me

Dan in Pasadena ...I cant agree more ..I want the finished product to be done right .

So I am pulling the motor in a couple of weeks , at which time I will have the holes welded up .Once they are welded up how is the best way to finish up the welded areas ( grinding and body filler)?

Again ...thank you ........doing it right is the only way to do it .

I doubt you'll ever regret it. I literally stopped counting at FIFTY holes in my firewall. I am SO glad I chose to restore the factory firewall rather than cut it out or cover it with a flat plate. Nothing wrong with that but I prefer what I did:

[Guyz55]

that looks great ...after grinding it smooth ( which im sure u did) , did you go over the areas with body filler to smooth things out ?

Thank you

[dsraven]

-prep both sides of the metal all around the holes to eliminate contamiated welds-get rid of oil and grease or wax/silicones(first), paint, rust, etc.

-fit filler pieces and ensure they are also clean bare metal on both sides. tack weld the fillers into the holes so you are sure to get the right plug for each hole. some guys will use magnets to hold the plugs in place while they tack weld. I find magnets distort the "field" around the mig welder (if that is what you will be using) so as soon as they are tacked in the magnets go away. I am sure your welder guy will have his own method but maybe stick around so you can be the "inside guy" to assist getting the plugs nice and flat in the hole when tacking them in place. a nice piece of flat material would be good to have kicking around to hold against the plug from the back side and keep it flat. a spare welders helmet would be an asset for you. wear long sleeves and a tight neckline, welding is like standing out in the sun on a mid summer afternoon, it will cause sunburn like reaction. NEVER LOOK AT OR WATCH THE ARC WITHOUT A SHIELD. you probably knew that already.

-weld in filler pieces leaving time for areas to cool off. don't overheat the area by trying to weld the whole plug at once or by welding a bunch of plugs all in the same area. weld all over the place a bit at a time so one area doesn't get hot and distort. take breaks to allow cool down

-grind the welds smooth. check for anything that looks like a pinhole. a bright light on one side with a set of eyes on the other side will usually find anything big.

-hammer and dolly, shrinking tools as required to get the spots as flat as possible.

-sand and feather out any areas that lap out onto the paint.I use 80 grit at this point because it roughs out fast. this will save you steps later. downgrade to a higher number once it is roughed in

-seal with epoxy, then use filler as required. when good respray with epoxy. when epoxy has flashed off or is ready to coat over (see directions on the can) spray with high build primer (primer surfacer, ask the body supply guys which ones are good for easy sanding, I hear slick sand is good for fast sanding and no paper plugging) and block sand. repeat the high build primer and sanding routine until no low spots are left and it looks good in the reflection of a light. I usually wipe the area down with a super wet rag of wax and grease remover, with a light shining from the opposite direction, so I get a good reflection of light on the surface. I find this way simulates you seeing it like it will be after a fresh paint job. if you see a bump now you will also see the bump in the fresh paint.

-some guys will use a fiberglass filler initially to fill any pinholes not found with the light. regular filler is porous so it will allow water through and start the rust process right away. spray a good coat of epoxy on each spot as well to ensure a good penetration into anything that may even think it is a pin hole.

take pics as you go for your memory of where stuff was. post up some pics of the progress

[dsraven]

Dan, wow, how many heaters did that truck have over the years?
nice job of smoothing.

[mr48chev]

Boy Howdy Dan, the PO's of that truck drilled an extra hole for everything.

Not to be suggesting running out and spending several hundred bucks on a mig but quite often if a guy has a good welder he also has a buddy who will do the welding for bragging rights and occasional use of the welder in your garage.

I can weld and my son can weld a lot better than I can but I bought my mig off a guy who advertised it on Craigslist because it wasn't big enough to do some of the welding his new business had.

When I picked it up I told him that I had saved the money to buy a Hobart 140 the next time they came on sale and he opened a cabinet in his spotless garage and there was a Hobart 140 that he had used before buying the 175 Lincoln that I bought from him and would again be his home shop welder. The guy kept everything spotless as my son looked over the welder I bought and thought I had bought it new as there was no sign it had been used. Moral to the story is that if you own a piece of equipment that you aren't well versed in using you usually have someone around who is able to use it quite well and is willing to work on your projects.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by Guyz55

that looks great ...after grinding it smooth ( which im sure u did) , did you go over the areas with body filler to smooth things out ?

Thank you

I didn't do it, the body and paint guy doing my truck did it but yes, it required some filler. Not much, he's a great pro. If I'd done it I'm sure it would have needed more mud,

[Dan in Pasadena]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Boy Howdy Dan, the PO's of that truck drilled an extra hole for everything.

Not to be suggesting running out and spending several hundred bucks on a mig but quite often if a guy has a good welder he also has a buddy who will do the welding for bragging rights and occasional use of the welder in your garage.


When I picked it up I told him that I had saved the money to buy a Hobart 140 the next time they came on sale and he opened a cabinet in his spotless garage and there was a Hobart 140 that he had used before buying the 175 Lincoln that I bought from him....

Funny, I bought a used but nearly new Hobart 140 just to do rust repair on my truck.

My truck was sold to me by a guy who bought it from the original owner since 1955. He'd gotten too old to drive it any more and it had sat un-registered and undriven from 1999 until 2010. He'd realy done nothing other than rebuild the carburetor and gets it running. I bought the truck in 2011.

The guy used it only to commute to work. He'd welded a 1/8" plate covering the bedwood which was actually pretty solid, just cracked. I have no idea what the deal was with the heater. The one i took out of it was a generic little square box with a manual water valve in the engine compartment.

[Donaldo]

Dan, Nice job on the firewall. I know it takes longer to finish than it does to weld !! I have an older Miller 130 for doing body work. It is amazing what PO's can leave behind. I think my firewall had 40+ holes, some quite large. Was a time consuming decision to figure out where to place the necessary new holes.