s10 swap rear wheel/bed alignment issue

[gigamanx]

I have all of my sheet metal perfectly aligned with the front fenders, cab, running boards, all the way back to the bed being in alignment with the rest. One thing I noticed is the rear wheels seem further back than some of the pictures I've seen online. I use the two little bolts heads on the lip of the fender as a reference. The only thing I can think of is that the axle on this truck isn't in the stock location?

Could someone tell me if I'm off my rocker or is this normal? I'm hoping its just the wheel size throwing me off otherwise it looks like the axle has to move forward about 6"

[joedoh]

longbed s10 wheelbase is 118", AD shortbed wheelbase is 116"

that said, it looks like its only about an inch off center, 6" is a half a foot, and no way is that half a foot off.

the AD front wheel is slightly back in the wheel arch from the factory so most s10 swaps account for that and move the cab back an inch. also, lowered s10s move the front wheel back in the front wheel arch so most people compensate another 1/2 inch or so for that.

it looks like in other pictures you have the front wheel set correctly, so maybe scoot the bed back a 1/2", the fender will easily move that much to meet the running board and apron. guys focus on the bed to cab gap too much, remember that the back of the cab is curved and the front of the bed is flat, so any gap will be accentuated.

there are also axle setback plates sold by jagsthat run that move the axle back 1/2", you can flip them and move the axle forward that 1/2"

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by joedoh

longbed s10 wheelbase is 118", AD shortbed wheelbase is 116"

that said, it looks like its only about an inch off center, 6" is a half a foot, and no way is that half a foot off.

the AD front wheel is slightly back in the wheel arch from the factory so most s10 swaps account for that and move the cab back an inch. also, lowered s10s move the front wheel back in the front wheel arch so most people compensate another 1/2 inch or so for that.

it looks like in other pictures you have the front wheel set correctly, so maybe scoot the bed back a 1/2", the fender will easily move that much to meet the running board and apron. guys focus on the bed to cab gap too much, remember that the back of the cab is curved and the front of the bed is flat, so any gap will be accentuated.

there are also axle setback plates sold by jagsthat run that move the axle back 1/2", you can flip them and move the axle forward that 1/2"

I like the idea of just pushing it back an inch haha. I'll make up for it somewhere when doing the running board mounts. Right now I'm just getting bed height set with some custom mounts so I can still slide back and forth to get the "twist" out of the bed corners and align the wheels.

Thanks for the sanity check

[joedoh]

remember that when you bag it, the front wheels will come back in the front wheel arch even more, and usually the rear wheels might go FORWARD slightly (the low mounting position of the lower bar is the cause) in the rear wheel arch so this may be nothing at all to worry about.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by joedoh

remember that when you bag it, the front wheels will come back in the front wheel arch even more, and usually the rear wheels might go FORWARD slightly (the low mounting position of the lower bar is the cause) in the rear wheel arch so this may be nothing at all to worry about.

Will keep that in mind. I will probably go the static drop route first once I've settled on wheels and tires. I did set the body a little low to begin with so I could lay running boards without too much modification to the suspension. That meant a small tunnel in the cab for the transmission and it looks like I've lost 1.5" from the bed depth for the hump in the frame that goes over the axle. Hopefully I can avoid a C-notch when it comes time to bag the rear. That may require a bag behind axle setup instead of bag over axle.... plenty of time to sort those details out once I'm driving

[dsraven]

if you do anything BUT slide the body it will cause your wallet to get lighter by the same amount as a new driveshaft.

if you slide the box back you will have to fiddle with the running board length.

if you slide the front fender back to keep the running board length correct then the grill won't fit proper against the front face of the fenders. not that I know exactly how that looks because I haven't worked on that year, just assuming by checking a pic of that model online. would it also affect the hood fitment?

can you simply slide everything back on the frame, including the cab? figure out how much you need, oval the frame holes by that much where the body mounts go through, place a flat plate larger than the mounts (with a hole drilled to match the body mount bolt hole diameter) on top of the frame to body mounting pad, so it will become the "new" contact between the frame and the body mount, get the body where you want it, bolt it all down and ensure it is square etc, then tack the plate to the frame mount, remove the body or jack it up enough to weld the "washer" onto the frame mount. then put it all back together. done.

what about just moving the rear axle spring perches ahead by the amount you need. you will need a new driveshaft length probably. but it may be easier than all that other messing around and that way all your work so far, to get it right and straight, is not lost.

you could also get a spring shop to fab you a new main leaf for the rear springs. one with the center hole further forward, then replace the main leaf and center bolt in the spring packs. also a good time to replace the bushings in the ends of the spring, not absolutely required though. that may be cheaper than doing the offset mount adapter and a also quicker turn around if you have to wait for shipping on the adapter. this would also require a shorter driveshaft.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by dsraven

if you slide the box back you will have to fiddle with the running board length.

nah, you can just slide the box back 1/2 inch and the fenders will still reach the running boards. I did it on my 49. even if you move the running boards back the 1/2" its not like they bolt to the front fenders, no one would notice the 1/2" gap there with the shape of the running board.

IMG_5254 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

[Jesse Z]

Read this guy's S10 swap thread. He had the same problem as you and solved it with a simple spring perch change:

https://www.killbillet.com/showthrea...he-wifey/page4

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by joedoh

nah, you can just slide the box back 1/2 inch and the fenders will still reach the running boards. I did it on my 49. even if you move the running boards back the 1/2" its not like they bolt to the front fenders, no one would notice the 1/2" gap there with the shape of the running board.

IMG_5254 by Joe Doh, on Flickr

that fitment look spot on. I think a larger tire helps fill in the wheel and I hardly notice the gap in the front fender and running board. I was trying to get them perfectly matched front and back of the running board. I do notice very few pictures online show a truck that has no gap on either end. A gap with the rear fender is definitely more prominent.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Jesse Z

Read this guy's S10 swap thread. He had the same problem as you and solved it with a simple spring perch change:

https://www.killbillet.com/showthrea...he-wifey/page4

Thanks Jesse. I can see the guy has a fitment issue because the gap around the tire is inconsistent. Oddly, for me, the gap around the tire and rear fender is perfect...it just "looks" like it is supposed to be further forward. I think I'll try the least obtrusive version from JoeDoh. Especially since I just spent $250 on a shiny new driveshaft

[joedoh]

I dont want the running board to touch my fender or the apron touch the cab, everything chatters enough metal to metal as it is, I spent enough time chasing ratlles.


the rear tire is a 235/75/15, I like that tire on almost every truck

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I dont want the running board to touch my fender or the apron touch the cab, everything chatters enough metal to metal as it is, I spent enough time chasing ratlles.

hmm...I didn't think of that!