Switches in my 58 Fleet

[hogfarm]

I have just about got the wiring done on my 58,couple problems.I bought a headlight and an ignition switch from LMC.
1.Headlight switch-when I turn parking lights they work fine,when I turn on headlights,headlights work fine but parking lights turn off.Is this normal,are the wired wrong or is the switch not working
2. The ignition switch,turn to the left there is no power at the ACC post,turn to the right every post has power,and the key will not stay in,comes out in any position.
3. I called LMC last Saturday and they were no help at all,told me the switch were for a 55-57 not for my truck...55-59 should be the same.

[joe70]

Hope this helps

joe

[dsraven]

the first thing to do is check to see if your truck was wired for marker lights with the headlights on. some were not wired this way and the marker lights switched off when the hedlights were switched on. normal in that case. this followed through into the next gen of chevy trucks as well.did you replace the switch possibly during the reno of the truck? maybe have a switch that is wired that way now?
if you have the proper switch for this function of all lights on with headlights, then the first thing to do is go through the power and ground distribution. there needs to be a good ground cable from the battery to the engine. one large enough to handle the max draw from the starter motor and other engine ground requirements like the alternator or generator, ignition system, sensors etc. on newer vehicles this cable also has a midpoint connection that is attached to the truck frame so two grounds get connected with the same cable and it is tidier and less cable and terminal ends have to be used. this style also cuts down on the number of cables that need to be attached to the battery so it looks cleaner and gets the job done.
the next ground system is for auxiliary equipment like lights, heater a/c system, stereo, windshield washer pumps, power seats and windows, air bag compressors etc etc. items that are connected and grounded to the body. this wire is smaller gage but large enough to handle the max draw of all the aux equipment if it was all running at the same time. the wire goes from the battery neg over to the body. some guys will run this from the truck frame or engine to the body instead because these items already have a big cable running to each of those items plus the new wire will be shorter and can be placed ouit of the eye's line of sight to look neater. the cab needs to have a ground because it is sitting on rubber mounts at the rear and plated/undercoated/rusty metal on metal mounts at the front. what I mean is the mounts can't be relied on for a good ground at all times. run a good ground from the battery, engine or frame to the body and first clean any paint etc off down to bare metal, install the wire connection with a star washer for good contact then shoot some paint or other rust inhibitor over the spot so it doesn't corrode. both ends.
the next item is the spot where the front lights connect their ground. usually the rad support. the rad support is also sitting on rubber mounts and is connected through the inner fenders and fender bolt connections back to the cab, so, basically not a good dedicated ground that is metal on metal. it is forced to go through bolts, threads, body shims etc to find a ground. usually the parts are painted, undercoated, rusty etc. I recommend a seperate ground wire from the frame to the rad support with the same bare metal, star washer setup talked about earlier. this will eliminate all those other coincidental circuits and give a dedicated ground circuit through the proper gage of wire to run whatever is on that circuit for load. do the same connection style under each ground wire from each light, where it attaches to the rad support or wherever. the same thing needs to be done out back for the tail lights. a good bare metal ground on the frame of the truck. then protect that with some anti corrosion coating.
if you have that part all checked and good, then the first thing to check after you have the grounds all figured out is power at the actual lights because that is the easy spot without pulling light switches etc. check the pigtails in the sockets while you are there. if you have a test light clip the ground terminal on a good ground, like the battery or the truck frame, then see if you have power at the marker lights with the headlights on. if you do but the bulbs don't light up then you may have a problem with the bulb holder or the bulb. if no power on the light pigtail then either go backwards from there to the light switch to find the break or bad connection, or start right at the light switch and check for power there.

[Foot Stomper]

The 58/59 light switch may be different as the 55's and 56's had running lights that would not light while headlights were on. The 57's I think had factory turn signals as did the 58's and 59's which would allow the park lights to be on with the headlights.

Do you have a foot stomp starter? Some trucks had a keyed "start" position...perhaps you have a foot stomp start and a keyed "start" position on your new ignition switch?

These differences will cause you to pull hair... hope you get it figured out.

Let me know if you want a copy of a 58 3100 wiring diagram as I see you are not using one.

[Black_Sheep]

Connect your parking lights to the light switch extra "tail light" terminal and you're good to go. Park lights will be on any time the tail lights are on...

[mr48chev]

Park lights on with the head lights didn't come into common use until much later.

I'm thinking on cars it was probably 68 when that came about when they changed to the collapsible column on cars.

I did some checking and it became a govt regulation on 68 and later rigs along with several other regs at the time including shoulder harness and the above mentioned collapsible column.

[Black_Sheep]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

Park lights on with the head lights didn't come into common use until much later.

I'm thinking on cars it was probably 68 when that came about when they changed to the collapsible column on cars.

I did some checking and it became a govt regulation on 68 and later rigs along with several other regs at the time including shoulder harness and the above mentioned collapsible column.

But, if the OP wants park lights with the head lights on, it's an easy fix. Personally, I just think it looks better...

[hogfarm]

There has been a lot of good advice.Now I don"t know what to do.When I bought this truck for $100.00 it was just a body on the frame,I have never heard it run or did I see how everything worked.I would like to see the park lights be on all the time.Plus after looking and the pictures I now know what headlights are the Hi and Lo.The ignition switch that cam with the truck (see Picture) has a start post but will not turn to start position,there was no motor,I don't know if it had V8 there was no hole for the foot stomp start.As you can see in the picture I still have a mess of wires to finish

[Foot Stomper]

[QUOTE=mr48chev;8155761]Park lights on with the head lights didn't come into common use until much later. /QUOTE]

I stand corrected! Mr48chev is 100% correct.

I'm going to be wiring my 59 shortly and now considering park lights on with headlights.

[dsraven]

I think all lights on with the headlights is a good idea. it just looks right and helps you be seen on the road.
what goes through your mind when you see a car driving along and only the headlights are on, like the daytime running lights on a lot of new cars that don't turn on the other lights, just the headlights on dim (like tail lights, who would need those on a dark road...). personally I think that the driver has no idea of how things work in the vehicle he is driving, clueless on the tail light thing. on an old vehicle when I see that I think there are wiring problems that the guy is unaware of or just doesn't fix them because he doesn't care, doesn't know how or is just too lazy.