Tuff Country EX Ride springs

[hemi43]

Here's some info on my spring install today.

Current ride height to mark on the fender is 39". This is with the stock springs which have a stacked height of 1" (leaves are 5/16" thick approx).
The new springs which are rated as a 2" lift raised the truck over 3".These springs have a higher spring rate than stock and have a stacked height of around 1 1/4". (the leaves are 3/8 thick approx)

Much higher than I wanted ! If I kept these springs. I would need to replace all the shock because there's less that 1" left of extension, and I would have to replace the steering arm to prevent bump steer.

I've opted to re-arc the new springs and take out 1 1/2", and hopefully end up with a height of around 41".

[SeventyOne]

Are you comparing old saggy stock springs with the new 2" lift springs for that measurement?

I wonder if those new 2"ers settle some too.

Just food for thought.

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by SeventyOne

Are you comparing old saggy stock springs with the new 2" lift springs for that measurement?

I wonder if those new 2"ers settle some too.

Just food for thought.

Yeah, the old springs were tired. I'm sure the new springs will settle a bit, but not an 1 1/2". Hopefully picking up the springs tomorrow and will reinstall them.

[68panelman]

My eyes are playing tricks again, photo three the truck looks higher than photo one?

[Bigdav160]

I think photo one is stock ride height and photo three is with the 2" lift.

I had the same issue. Tuff Country 2" lift seems like a 4" lift. Yes, I had bump steering and had to add a raised steering arm also.

[A1971Blazer]

I think I might have ran them for a while first...although re-arching will bring them down....they would probably have sagged after a while..maybe?

My K/5 has a 4" BDS kit and it's higher than I like...I bought a Tuff Country, all spring, 2½" kit, with shocks, that I will be installing soon...so I'm anxious to see how your ride is with those springs...please keep us updated on this mod...thanks

[6768chevylover]

Hemi did you only do the front springs? Curious if the rears will do the same thing.

[Lieferson]

I ordered a 4" ez ride lift, and it came with 6" rear lift springs. It ended up being almost 7" higher than the wore out stock suspension. I daily drive my K5 and since i installed the lift it has only settled about 3/4 of an inch. In my opinion, the stance and height you want, you would probably be best to just buy stock replacement springs...

[hemi43]

Just got back home with the springs. I got them lowered 1 1/2".
I'll post some pictures when I get them put in. Once I'm happy with the ride height up front, my plan is to get new springs for the rear.
It seems like a lot screwing around, but my initial idea was to increase the front spring rate without raising the truck so high that I got into bump steer and over travelling my shocks.
If my calculations are correct, purchasing stock height rear springs will put the truck almost level.

[hemi43]

Front springs are perfect now. The truck is basically at stock height now, so hopefully the numbers I'm posting will help someone in the future.
I do however have to replace the U bolts, because the new spring pak is thicker than stock.
Hoping to order the rear stock height springs tomorrow.
I realize it may be difficult to see the difference in the pictures I posted, but up close an inch here or there makes a world of difference.
I will also be installing a 73up sway bar, but unfortunately have to wait till spring before I can road test it.

[twp1]

My front springs have 4 leafs is that normal or do you think someone added a leaf?

[Mike C]

Standared is two leaves. HD is three leaves. With 4 sounds like an add-a-leaf or an increased load extra spring.

[hemi43]

Got the new rear springs installed today ( part# 22-403). Was also able to get the front anti-sway bar mounted too.
Did lots of measuring of the chassis, and ended up mounting the rear axle 5/8" rearward so that it fits the wheel opening a bit better. I also corrected the slight "crab walk" the truck had. I did however have to make a tapered 2 1/2 degree spacer to keep the U-joints in sinc. Lots of snow here, so will be a few months before I can test out how it rides and handles now. I suspect those front springs will be a huge improvement.

[mortoyz]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Got the new rear springs installed today ( part# 22-403). Was also able to get the front anti-sway bar mounted too.
Did lots of measuring of the chassis, and ended up mounting the rear axle 5/8" rearward so that it fits the wheel opening a bit better. I also corrected the slight "crab walk" the truck had. I did however have to make a tapered 2 1/2 degree spacer to keep the U-joints in sinc. Lots of snow here, so will be a few months before I can test out how it rides and handles now. I suspect those front springs will be a huge improvement.

What steps did you take to correct crab walk and move the axle back?

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by mortoyz

What steps did you take to correct crab walk and move the axle back?

The spacer blocks with the 2 1/2 degree taper are about 1" thick in the middle. All I did was off set the locating pin rearward to move the axle backwards. It doesn't take much to have a noticeable crab walk. The driver's side is only 1/4" further back than the passenger side and it made a world of difference.
My truck has never been hit, and suspect that the slight crab walk has been in the truck since new because of build tolerances back in 1970.

I would be curious if anyone else's truck is out like mine, and it only takes a couple Guys and 3 minutes to find out. You need a dead straight bar about 8 feet long and a tape measure. Have someone hold the bar against the side of the rear tire with one end of the bar almost touching the front tire. Now the other person can measure the distance from the bar to a solid point on the frame. I used the bottom bolt of the front spring shackle. Do this on both sides and compare your measurement. I had an 1 1/2" difference. By moving the driver's side rear end back 1/4", I was able to reduce this difference to 3/8", which IMO is close enough. I hope you can understand what I'm trying to explain.

I will take a picture of the tapered block installed later today.

[hemi43]

Here's the block. Angle of picture makes it look like the axle is real far back, but it's only 7/8" on driver's side and 5/8" on passenger's side.

[mortoyz]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Here's the block. Angle of picture makes it look like the axle is real far back, but it's only 7/8" on driver's side and 5/8" on passenger's side.

Thanks!!

[argonaut]

What size are your tires? need to know this to compare to my blazer.
A more generic measurement for comparison would be from the bottom of the spring pack to the underside of the frame, no?

[mdlewis78]

Interesting, I recently ordered and installed their 4"/5" ez ride kit, with all new springs front and rear. I have over 6" of lift in the front and about 5.5" of lift in the rear. Same as previous comments, the 4" front springs actually seem like 6" springs. I am working with Tuff Country now to get a fix.

What is the process for have the new springs re-arched?

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by argonaut

What size are your tires? need to know this to compare to my blazer.
A more generic measurement for comparison would be from the bottom of the spring pack to the underside of the frame, no?

It doesn't matter where you measure from. My initial measurement (which was the line on the masking tape) was just for reference so I could see how much change the new springs would do.
My tires are 12 1/2 X 33.

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by mdlewis78

Interesting, I recently ordered and installed their 4"/5" ez ride kit, with all new springs front and rear. I have over 6" of lift in the front and about 5.5" of lift in the rear. Same as previous comments, the 4" front springs actually seem like 6" springs. I am working with Tuff Country now to get a fix.

What is the process for have the new springs re-arched?

The old springs you were replacing were probably sagged 1 1/2", and the new springs will settle 1/2" or so. The 4" advertised lift from Tuff Country is from new stock height springs, so seeing a 6" lift is correct.

To de-arch the springs you need to take them to a spring shop and have them reshape the leaves to the correct height. It's an easy process, but you need a power hammer. It only cost me $60 to have mine de-arched.

[rads42]

Now that you've been through all of this with the height do you think if you had to do it over you would just go with stock springs?

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by rads42

Now that you've been through all of this with the height do you think if you had to do it over you would just go with stock springs?

I wanted stock springs from the beginning. The fronts are not available, at least here in Canada. I had 3 different spring shops try and source them for me with no luck.
I really didn't got through too much hassle, and it only cost me $60 to get them re-arched. It was all worth it because I'm happy with the ride height.

[hemi43]

Finally got a chance to go for a ride today on the new springs. Wow, is all I can say ! Huge difference in the feel. Braking is excellent now because the old springs wanted to pull to the right under heavy braking. The ride quality is not as harsh as I would have thought. Well worth the money so far. I'll have to take it on some rough roads when things dry up to see how it handles in that.

[jamie72]

any pics on how you mounted the sway bar to frame?