Pinion Nut Removal- need help!

[Afirehawk1]

Need to change the pinion.
Nut will not budge.

1. Used 4 ft cheater bar. Nothing
2. Used impact gun. Nothing

Advice appreciated!

[Backpayne]

Heat it up! Those are torqued down to around 200ftlb so they are tight then add in rust.

[Afirehawk1]

Holy geez. No wonder im sore!
I will try that, thanks!

[Backpayne]

One thing you might try is use a floor jack on the cheater bar. That has helped me in times of needed torque with limited clearance. Sure wish I had a lift.

[PGSigns]

Put a pipe wrench on the pinion and brace it so the yoke is locked solid and the impact should work. If the pinion shakes when the impact is hitting it it looses all the power. You can put a bit of heat on the nut.
Jimmy

[jayoldschool]

What impact gun, and what compressor is driving it? A good one (of both) will have no issues banging that nut loose.

[Afirehawk1]

Chicago Pneumatic with 120 psi compressor

[jayoldschool]

Which gun specifically, and what CFM compressor? Harbor Freight makes some great Earthquake guns that do over 300ft-lbs. A 120psi compressor can be anything from a little oil-less pancake to a big 60 gallon 240V. The former will not take that nut off, the latter will (with a good gun).

[Keith Seymore]

I know this doesn't help, but it might make you feel better: it happens to the best of us.

I was at the race track one time and Bobby Joysey was there with his beautiful black Camaro. His dad Bill was his engine builder and "crew chief".

I was walking past the car and could tell Bill was under there trying to get the pinion nut off. The funny thing was I knew he was the one that put that nut on there. I could hear him yelling "...damn red Loctite! DAMN red Loctite!!"

(lol)

K

[rvrfoot]

Almost impact gun will take it off. Mine will do 350.

[Afirehawk1]

I have a new posi rear end and i hear i need to be careful so nothing moves.
How much motion is ok?
Now im hearing something about a crush sleeve that i should replace?

Now im concerned that i will screw it up.

Ugh!

[The Rocknrod]

You'd have to take it apart to screw it up.

[Afirehawk1]

I spoke to the shop that rebuilt the rear-end. They indicated if i mark the pinion and nut, and count the threads exposed, i should be good. I shouldn't have to touch the crush sleeve. If i am off on the mark, i will toast the bearing(s).

i wished i had caught the yoke needing replacement. Lesson learned.
lets see how this goes tonight!

[toolboxchev]

Isn't that thing a reverse thread? I dunno, but someone will confirm.....

[Afirehawk1]

I was told counterclockwise??
Oh geez!

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by Afirehawk1

I was told counterclockwise??
Oh geez!

Sorry. It just struck me as funny... I once broke a Honda transmission bolt when I failed to read the "note" that said it was reverse thread.

Anyway, if I remember right, it is ccw to remove. I replaced the seal on my GMC some years back and used the "count the turns" technique to reinstall. Haven't had any problems.

[GASoline71]

The pinion nut isn't holding 200 foot pounds. It needs to be tightened down that much to crush the sleeve between the bearings to add bearing preload. The nut can be loosened with an impact. Just do like above and hold the yoke with a pipe wrench. But you will have to reset your pinion preload with another crush sleeve once you remove that pinion gear.

Gary

[Afirehawk1]

Ok.
Recommend to go back to the original marks or slightly past?

[PGSigns]

If you changed the yolk you old lines mean nothing. What I would have done to ensure it was right was pulled the axles and checked the rolling torque with an inch pound dial torque wrench. (pulling the carrier would be the best way) Then put the new yolk on and pulled it up tight and checked the rolling torque and continued to tighten the nut till I got the same rolling resistance. That will get you close to what you had for bearing preload before you pulled it apart. To tight or to loose and the bearings may not live long.
Jimmy